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We are experiencing a problem with our 186 hydro. I put the updated compressor and expansion valve on it last year. This year, the expansion valve plugged, the sensor bulb corroded and leaked. I replaced, and now it hasn't quite been right sense. If you turn it on and let it idle, it works pretty good. As soon as you rev it up, pressures go around 300/60 and it kicks out. Idle back down, and do the same, and it will stay running. Pressures are around the same, but don't vary much. I replaced filter/dryer, and cleaned both can filters, and pressure switch by the condenser. 

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Also, I fill with refrigerant until the return line just starts to condense really good, but not quite frost over. I've done all of ours this way, and never had a problem. 

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It’s over charged kicking high pressure switch out that or it has non condensables in the system. Such as air or moisture. Blow charge pull good vacuum and charge till it runs 30/ 35 lbs on low side with fan on high. You know you have it charged right when the clutch stays engaged with fan on high and never cycles with temp on cold as it goes.

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I pulled vacuum for twenty minutes and it bottomed my ac gauges out. Held vacuum for another ten minutes so I filled. I will try to recover some and see how it goes. Thanks!

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Had a 14xx that the coupler at the base of the cab for splitting the tractor rusted and plugged the connector. Might want to check if you have the system empty it can mess up pressures. Do you have good air flow through the condenser and radiator? pressure on high should not get that high that it trips the switch, sounds over charged or no air flow to get rid of the heat

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Sounds like you failed to flush the system.

300/60 pressures indicate overcharged.

20 minutes isn't a long enough vacuum time.

 

Reclaim system and disassemble. If you had enough contamination to plug the xp valve, then the compressor needs replaced.  I suggest replacing all the lines if they are original.  Flush the condenser and evap core.  Replace the drier.  Vac the system for an hour, then recharge.  Use the sight glass on the drier to know when it's charged, or do it by pressures.  Looking for frost or condensation on the lines isn't how you charge.  High humidity will make them sweat sooner.  Outside temps and humidity vary.  Can't use that as an indicator. 

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I’d also consider replacing the condenser. If you put a new dryer and compressor on that’s where most of the trash came from that plugged the expansion valve

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failure to fully flush the lines and condenser and evaporator that has any contamination is extremely important also using good quality replacement parts no junk will fit stuff

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The system was never contaminated to plug the expansion valve. The sensing bulb corroded and then it would not open. 

 

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Hooked gauges up today, made double sure the rad and air filter for cab was clean, no one cleaned them prior to me looking and they were clean today. Gauges read around 10 on low and 130 on high wide open throttle and air. Kicked out as soon as it got close to 10. Refered to a known good tractor and it was closer to 180 and 20-25. So, it seemed as if mine was low. Didn't even add a pound, and it bumped my pressures up close to the other tractor. I'll run it in the field for a while and report back. 

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On 7/10/2019 at 9:29 PM, MinnesotaFarmall said:

Hooked gauges up today, made double sure the rad and air filter for cab was clean, no one cleaned them prior to me looking and they were clean today. Gauges read around 10 on low and 130 on high wide open throttle and air. Kicked out as soon as it got close to 10. Refered to a known good tractor and it was closer to 180 and 20-25. So, it seemed as if mine was low. Didn't even add a pound, and it bumped my pressures up close to the other tractor. I'll run it in the field for a while and report back. 

sounds undercharged high side should be near 200 also I'd make sure your evaporator is so clean you can see thru it 

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