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Kentuckydiesel

T340A sprocket bearing play...front idler bushing design

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Yesterday I stuck a t-post in behind my sprockets to see if they had any movement.  They did.  Today I split the tracks to get a better idea of what I'm dealing with.  One side has about 1/16" movement at the outside of the sprocket.  Not as good as I would like, but not terrible.  The other side has about 1/8" movement at the outside of the sprocket, but it also seems to have some endplay to the point that it clunks when I pull on it. 

Is there any adjustment for endplay, or am I stuck with whatever tolerances I get with new bearings?  How much movement, if any, is acceptable on the sprocket?  I don't want any undue wear on the gears in the final drive.

Also, it looks like I'm going to make new bushings for my front idlers.  Any particular shaft to bushing clearance or bushing design that works well for conversion to grease or should I try to set it back up for heavy oil lube?

 

Thanks,

Phillip 

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wish you would have put a few hours on first to find real condition.

time for the fun to begin....post photos and details for others to use next year

do an outside search coming back in here most of it has been covered.

30% of parts you could buy $$$ the rest you will be making and making it up to work

welcome  you have just fallen down  the never ending rabbit hole,

I should have stocked ALL those new final parts when the last 2 members recently scrapped thiers for not finding the needed parts for $$ in timely manner. ( setting here ..to do list, is to list and cross sort those # to something current and stock for own use)

https://www.motionindustries.com/productDetail.jsp?sku=00054211

I tell people all the time those final bearings need attention ( early "A" or 4K + hours)

have a worn gear set in with a winter parts haul

do as you like but you are in  deep now... if you pull those sprockets and spend $$$$ for the bearings/ SEALS !...do buy/install the $72 brake discs and $400 actuators.....that hole is open ...hmm.. check ALL those bearings....may as well pull axles and have new sun bushings made, now is the time to pop the top.$500 for pads.....front idler shaft bushing seals etc etc,make up to fit....have slides reworked...start on a work around for the other 20 roller seals shafts etc.....replace at least 3 of the rollers?

be safe have fun.....photos!

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When I brought this little dozer, I kinda planned on putting another $1000 in it to make it "right".  I'm fortunate in that I have a machine shop at work that I can use to make bushings and most of whatever else I need.  We also have some good bearing supply houses in town that are great about taking a set of measurements and finding something that will work (I also work on 100 year old punch presses, so that isn't unusual).  

This little dozer doesn't have to worry about getting scrapped.  Shame that people feel like they have to do that.

I actually got a set of NOS  steering planetary pads for $38, so they just need to be bonded and riveted to the backings if I find the originals are in fact worn.  

-Phillip

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no  just bolted between the two slides which you may as well true up when you make the bushings, new shafts, and invent new seals/holder so the gear oil stays in

for regular folks each sprocket group runs $3-500 bearings $1-200 seals $0-500 gears $100 misc ...2x

idlers repair $5-700 ea

your sun linings should be bonded to the backer NOS  to be x .0??  per manual then brass rivets to shoes

when owners are stuck with just spent $3K  and now need another $3K for $1K machine   many will try to sell for $3-8K and then scrap gets them for $400

they have be turning down my offers $2x scrap + X for usable UC

 

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Yea, it can get hard to keep dropping money in old equipment when it seems like it's constantly needing something.  Too bad the ones that get scrapped weren't passed along to someone who might use the parts instead.

I'm hoping if I get the bearings and such right to start with on this machine, it should be fairly reliable.  It really doesn't seem to have much wear on anything...just seems like the idlers got run dry for quite a while.

 

Thanks for all the help so far!

-Phillip

Screenshot_20190622-225558_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20190622-225532_Gallery.jpg

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Rail height new is 3 inches. Bushing looks round, very little or no wear there. Looking good!

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....? did yours just now show up in my inbox or is there another for sale out your way..65.?

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Mine isn't up for sale.  Got alot if work for it to do.  Spent part of Saturday building up and turning the front idler shafts.  Will probably press the new bushings in the idlers tomorrow.  

-Phillip

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Been busy lately, but I finally got the front idlers back together. 

The idler pins needed some attention as they were a bit grooved on either side, so I built them up then turned them back down and polished them.

I wasn't a big fan of the original idler hub bushing/seal design, so I decided to go back with something a little different.  I am now using nearly full width 1/4" wall thickness bushings with oiling grooves and proper oil seals on either side of the bushings.  With the oiling grooves, they have a hole drilled in them to allow oil into the bushing.  I also went with 3/16" thick oilite thrust washers on either side of the hub.  They are cheap and easy to replace, so we'll see how that works out.  They turned out great...nice, tight, and smooth spinning now.  We'll see how this setup holds up.

 

-Phillip

 

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I was going to make a set of bushings, but McMaster Carr had some that were almost what I wanted.  I think 4.25" wide would have been better, but i decided to try the 4" width since they're easy to change if I don't like them.  The only trick is, you'll have to bore your idlers to fit the 2" OD bushings and seals.

Here are the parts I used.

Main bushings are part number 7965K55

Seals are 5154T842

Thrust Washers are 7447K32

 

I will keep y'all posted on how these work out.

 

-Phillip

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