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TD15B Dozer Repair


GHar
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Ok cool those are both good ideas cheers guys.

Its currently out in the bush so removing the cylinder may have to wait until I can use a lift of some sort.

Fabricating a new one is a good option. No IH wreckers down here.

Im really not sure if its the packing thats leaking or the dust seal. It does have a steady stream of oil that leaks... possibly both are.

Cheers, really helps having advise with this ,

Harvey

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The hydraulic tank is black...

Looks like sump oil was used..

I guess cause it was leaking so much someone decided to use old oil.

Also the rear frame oil is a darker tan colour.. 

Are these things to address before I move the machine? Or they'll be ok for a trip to the lowboy.

Whats the likelihood that sump oil has damaged the hydraulics system?

Im really hoping no sump oil was used in the rear frame. I believe that 80w/90 is required there so hopefully not..

Can you flush the systems very easily?

 

Cheers

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I think im ready to try and move the dozer.
All the linkages are working and all the fluids are checked - although dirty.

Engine idles well, throttle adjustment is ok for shutoff.

Is there anything to check that I have missed?

Had a look at the wiring today. Made sure 24v was up to the dash and good earth.
The only dial that works is the engine oil pressure. Havent seen any others move.

Rewired in the elec safety switch as I bypassed it when the starter was rebuilt. Cant believe that switch still works 55years later on. Im yet the check charging when running and the rest of the dash.

I have 2 spare wires, red and purple, LH side of battery compartment towards the front.
I cant find these in the wiring diagram.
The only ones that look similar on the diagram are actually the starter switch, but this is mounted on the dash and already connected.

Any ideas?

Lights? But the diagram shows only 1 wire running to the rear lights.
 

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Should NOT be 80-90 gear oil in the rear end/trans.  Called for 10w motor oil back in the day.  A good trans/hyd oil will be ok.  Only 80-90 gear oil in that tractor is in the final drives.  Hydraulic system and transmission system are separate systems.  Maybe you could just pull the packing gland and rod out of the cylinder barrel and leave the barrel attached to the tractor.  You should be able to man handle it then with some help.  It will be full of oil also, be prepared.

Dennis

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Gday Dennis, 

Yes I got that mixed up sorry, thick oil in the finals. I really hope its not an engine rear main seal thats leaking!!

Is there a quick way to check that? Is the rear main visable from center platform area?

Doing the cylinder on the dozer sounds the way to go, i can replace packing and seals whilst leaving the rear end bolted up? Is that correct?

That would be perfect if so

 

Cheers

Harvey

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Good morning GHar, at least morning here.  Rear engine seal is not visible.  The torque converter and flywheel need to be removed to access.  An oil sample to a lab, available at most machinery dealers here, may be able to identify makeup.  Other than that, change it and watch it.  Takes about 55 gal. though.

Here's how I would probably go about the cylinder.  Lower the blade, disconnect the rod from the blade and retract.  Strap a plank to the cylinder and rest the plank on top of the blade.  Remove the outer ring of bolts at the gland, leave one or two there but loosened way up.  Use your truck, or a come-a-long tied to your truck to pull it out.  Remove the other bolts once it starts to come.  It will probably come out easily once it starts to come.  If the inside of the barrel looks good after it is out you are ready to go to town for repairs or parts.  Reinstall will probably require some persuasion with a sledge hammer to get it in.  Tighten up the capscrews, attach to the blade and you are done.  Sounds easy right?  Remember, it will be full of oil.  Good luck and be safe.

Dennis

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Very very good advise appreciate it Dennis.

55 gallons... that is 210 litres, that is a massive amount of oil!

I think best to change it though, it is dark and been sitting for 9 years and probably was not regularly changed in its previous life.

 

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On 6/20/2019 at 4:34 PM, GHar said:

I had just been thinking,

Doesn't it look like the cylinder cap has been broken by someone trying to remove it?

possibly to fix an expensive and irritating leak there?

I cant think how else this would've happened with regular or even irregular use of the machine!

I imagine the suspect tools to blame may be a screwdriver... hammer...

2019-06-20 16.32.22.jpg

 

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Hey Ben if your there shoot me your email and I will send you manuals for freeee

they are just pdf photocopies and not really worth $200. I was a bit disappointed with them actually!!

Why are these manuals not available for free for such an old machine I wonder.

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GHar,

 You have taken on a large yellow project! Will try to check in on you from time to time. You some how solved the linkage problem in a couple of posts. At that rate this will be pushing dirt in no time!:) 

BTW good pictures and documentation too! That really helps folks understand what they are going through.

Regards,

 Chris

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Gday Chris, thanks for the kind words of encouragement! I need every bit I can get at the moment!

A slightly daunting project for me.. such a big machine, out in the woods by myself, and not too many guys around me that I can chat with about it.. also never operated such a vessel.. only tractors and cars etc.. 

But, I am learning and hopefully I will arrive, or shall I say the dozer will arrive, on a back of a lowboy to my property one day!!! There she will be very useful. We had a bushfire down here at the start of the year, my 300 acre block was turned into black sticks.. Some very dangerous trees still hanging in the balance. I havent walked around the property in months. I cant wait, to strap those trees to my winch and finally land them. Way to dangerous to fell with a chainsaw.. widow-makers they are.

Thanks for the encouragement mate?

Cheers

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:clicking a link below will take you to YouTube video:

 

Dozer at Idle

 

Engine Revs

 

Hi All,

Thought I'd maybe share a link here, so some of you can comment on how the dozer is running..

Particularly interested to know what folk think of the current timing of the Roosa pump to the engine, how does it sound..

Its set at around 8 to 10 degrees as far as I can see from the side of the engine.

Also, is that too much smoke??

 

Cheers

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And 1 more:

 

 

 

After the inital start and warm-up, the engine seemed to settle into a consistent about of smoke and colour.

What do you guys think,

Harvey

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I am not experienced on these engines, but it sound great to me. I don't think it's too much smoke when you Throttle it up as long as it doesn't keep smoking.

DWF

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  • 1 month later...

They were always a bit smokey compared to todays machines, early 15 Bs with the DT 361 and the 20 B with the DT 429 were probably the worst. The 15 B with the 407 was a lot better but the 15 C with the DT 466 was probably the cleanest running of them all.

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Happy to report some progress!

Dozer moves well, forward backward, turns left great locks up well, doesn't like to turn right unfortunately.. will very gradually turn right but not lock the brake. 

Started her up (8deg C and fired up in a few seconds of cranking ?) and she crawled her way outta the 10yr old grave like it was just another work day! All rollers were good, and track tension seems ok but LH side a little tight maybe.

So besides from the RH steering issue, the trans and converter seem good. In need of a hyd oil change of course.

She is sitting on level ground now, so glad the water trap will work now. And so much easier to work on with the blade off the high stump. I can get around it really well now.

Very very relieved to see her get up and show her worth.. lots of time and money so far !!

Harvey

 

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  • 10 months later...

Just a little update as its been sometime since i was last here,

Its seems with each visit to see the dozer i find something else that needs a fix..

After fixing the leaking LH cylinder, repacking and new cap, the RH cylinder has also developed the same leak. So that will need the same treatment, hopefully not more cost in fabricating a new cap this time, just seals i hope.

Also it seems the radiator fan has a severe amount of runout to it now, not sure it was there before, but now i know why the water pump is also leaking now..

The blade takes forever to raise, well above 5 secs stated in manual. The control linkage is sloppy it maybe that, or a relief valve stuck and dirty as the oil is filthy, or the pump i guess. Havent got gauges or adaptors here to test those pump pressures 1650psi etc

The noise from the flywheel mounted hyd pump is very concerning, groaning, cavitating sound while lifting blade, doesnt seem correct to me. Im hoping its just dirty oil in valves and maybe sucking air at pickup side of pump or something that i can clean and fix easily while in the field..

Im worried the concoction of different weight/dirty/new oils in the hydraulic system maybe contributing to all this noise and under performance. 

I did get to push some dirt around yesterday!

but with no RH brake, weak foot brakes, a very slow and noisey blade and a wobbling radiator fan accompanied with water it was not the day of glory i had been hoping for!!

Anyway, nice to be here again, reading up on all the info from members and learning heaps,

Cheers

 

 

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Managed to get the other cylinder off, and disassembled, should be able to take packing into shop and match something up again.

20200728_221109.gif.a23ee8b701811728e85f00fdaea698c7.gif

This packing cap looks much better so ill try and press it out and reuse. They seem to get squashed into the cylinder cap after a life of removing shims to prevent leaks. hope it comes out!

20200728_225349.gif.804935b4846034b188eab59d2d288ac0.gif

 

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We searched through the owners shed, he has a fantastic collection of all things imaginable, and quite a few spares for the dozer.

Found a spare water pump, as well as lots of filters and bearings, seals etc. A job to find out whats what, as I don't have a parts manual as yet!

20200728_225415.gif.c9384998fa7994db8cf79c9906b79bdd.gif

There is runout in this fan, but not as much as the one on the dozer. I think I have to press off the pulley, and see if I can get into the bearings to replace them. Probably seals too.

20200728_201557.gif.f6b2b13edac0119402120e58715a0e6a.gif

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Im trying to find a way to make the blade more responsive,

I don't fully understand the hydraulic system as yet, but have just 2 questions if someone could be so kind:

 

what is this hydraulic control block thing under the radiator? what does it do?

Thanks guys

20200728_133047.gif.ec6e0ef6e8b3fd16222d0fc242dd1b15.gif

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Also, the blade lift control feels like its catching, maybe on a broken relief spring inside the spool?

 

any ideas or suggestions I would be very glad to hear about!!

I have seen a diagram in the manual,  but not super confident..   can I just loosen that spool cover and have a look?

Im searching for the problem here of slow blade and moanin' pump, this is when raising the blade.

20200728_152240.gif.832cbadc752495db1685ae2c9981e643.gif

from the other side, spool in question is on far left of the three.

top left on the block, is that the system pressure control adjustment???

 

Looking forward to some answers!! Cheers guys!

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