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north of 60

When your Easy Out breaks

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If you have been there, you know the sinking feeling that comes with breaking your Easy Out tool off inside the bolt you were trying to remove.. you know your problem bolt just became a much bigger problem... you can't really drill it, you may be able to weld a nut onto it if you're real fortunate.. 

This was my situation, trying to remove a twisted off 3/8”  bolt from a brake caliper bracket on my lowboy.. was not able to get a nut welded to it... I saw where a guy had posted on the intenet about grinding the broken Easy Out with a Dremel tool and a chainsaw sharpening stone .. it worked for him, so thought why not give it try..

It worked ! It took some time, and I went through 2 sharpening stones, but I as able to resolve my problem.. once the Easy Out was ground away, I was able to drill and re-tap, which I probably should have done in the first place..

Passing this along in the event it can help someone else in this situation ...

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I have used a carbide bit in a dremel tool. I may have been removing a stud though.  That was awhile ago.

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Did you get through with a single stone or wear out several? I'm going to pick up a couple just to have.

Every now and then I find a Dremel tool handy for something. First time I've heard of grinding broken tap but it sounds like a good out if you can't weld onto it.

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7 hours ago, north of 60 said:

If you have been there, you know the sinking feeling that comes with breaking your Easy Out tool off inside the bolt you were trying to remove.. you know your problem bolt just became a much bigger problem... you can't really drill it, you may be able to weld a nut onto it if you're real fortunate.. 

This was my situation, trying to remove a twisted off 3/8”  bolt from a brake caliper bracket on my lowboy.. was not able to get a nut welded to it... I saw where a guy had posted on the intenet about grinding the broken Easy Out with a Dremel tool and a chainsaw sharpening stone .. it worked for him, so thought why not give it try..

It worked ! It took some time, and I went through 2 sharpening stones, but I as able to resolve my problem.. once the Easy Out was ground away, I was able to drill and re-tap, which I probably should have done in the first place..

Passing this along in the event it can help someone else in this situation ...

They should outlaw easy outs. They cause more problems than they solve.  Don't own one and never will. And take out all kinds of broken bolts stud all the time. 

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“Easy Out” what a crock. No such thing. I have said before I have never been able to successfully remove a bolt with one. I quit trying years ago. 

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3 minutes ago, 12_Guy said:

“Easy Out” what a crock. No such thing. I have said before I have never been able to successfully remove a bolt with one. I quit trying years ago. 

Someone should file a lawsuit against them for false advertising.  Should be called something else 

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10 minutes ago, RKO said:

Should be called something else

I think that "first step to a REALLY bad day", should cover it!   :angry:

I am thinking seriously about a set of left handed drill bits......

Mike

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4 hours ago, mikem said:

I think that "first step to a REALLY bad day", should cover it!   :angry:

I am thinking seriously about a set of left handed drill bits......

Mike

Left handed bits work well use them at work all the time if it doesn’t get it out usually have to drill anyway so you already have a starter hole.

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7 hours ago, mikem said:

I think that "first step to a REALLY bad day", should cover it!   :angry:

I am thinking seriously about a set of left handed drill bits......

Mike

They are the work of the devil 😈   

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I was wondering about left handed drill bits?

Are they any good?

Whats people's experiences with them?

I habe to say they are like the proverbial Rocking Horse Poo over here.

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I've actually had some success with EZ outs. It's a matter of common sense. If you're hoping to remove a long rusted in or cross-threaded bolt broken well below flush with no heat and just an EZ out you're dreaming. If it's an otherwise good bolt that just had the head snapped off or a screw that's had the top stripped out by a worn screwdriver bit then you have a chance. The best are the EZ outs that have a shoulder and a shear point. Snap-On sells them. The long, hardened type are too brittle but I've used them many times for snapped off pipe or hydraulic fittings.

Of course my favorite is probably everyone else's - weld a grade 8 nut on the top if it's flush or above. Even below flush is a possibility with if in cast iron; with some luck and/or skill, of course. If in cast iron and not blind I have drilled through and burned them out with a torch.I've done the same with blind holes but have had holes in my shirt from the slag!

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I have a set of LH bits and the work pretty well on some, especially screws. It was/is a common way for aircraft mechanics to get rusted, stripped top inspection panel screws out.

Mine are not split point so I start with a RH then switch to LH.

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Have used and had some success with both easy outs and left hand drill bits. 

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1 hour ago, New Englander said:

Of course my favorite is probably everyone else's - weld a grade 8 nut on the top if it's flush or above. Even below flush is a possibility with if in cast iron; with some luck and/or skill, of course. If in cast iron and not blind I have drilled through and burned them out with a torch.I've done the same with blind holes but have had holes in my shirt from the slag!

A neighbour who does heavy equipment has an advance on this.  He uses stainless rods and starts the arc around the centre of the broken stud and builds up at close to white heat.  The slag protects the thread.  He'll go way down in the hole - I'm not that game as yet.  Get it built up till he can get a nut on it.  The heat helps.  Then he'll douse it with lube and rock back and forwards till he feels it crack loose and then work the broken stud out.

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2 minutes ago, Ian Beale said:

A neighbour who does heavy equipment has an advance on this.  He uses stainless rods and starts the arc around the centre of the broken stud and builds up at close to white heat.  The slag protects the thread.  He'll go way down in the hole - I'm not that game as yet.  Get it built up till he can get a nut on it.  The heat helps.  Then he'll douse it with lube and rock back and forwards till he feels it crack loose and then work the broken stud out.

Sounds interesting. I'd have to clean off 2" of dust from my stick welder! The only time I ever use it anymore is if I absolutely have to weld something outside. Miller 252 is just too easy for this amateur.

I have built up almost 3/8 inch with the wire with mixed results. Sometime OK, especially in cast iron but too afraid in steel. I was taking a half dozen out of a GM aluminum head and got them all - sometimes on the second or third attempt as the weld was breaking or the poor quality bolts were snapping at the weld. On third attempt heated the head through the exhaust ports. Filed that away if the bolts on the other side start popping off as well. Each time the welded-on nut snapped it happened after a thread or two backed out, which was encouraging.

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My experience is if your going to get the drill out just drill it out.

Ez-Outs are just a recipe for a real pain in the ass. 

Left Hand Bits are better you might work it out while drilling through and if you don't just collapse it with a chisel. 

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Sharp pointed carbide burr works well too if a easy out breaks. We have a extractor set from Mac tools that comes in handy from time to time. Drill the appropriate sized hole and then tap the extractor in. Left hand twist so it grabs hard as you loosen it.  I haven’t had much luck with old broken fasteners but for fresh breaks or small bolts they’ve worked ok a time or two. Work well on broken brass fittings as well. 

This is the kit we have. 

https://www.mactools.ca/en-ca/NoValue/NoValue/SCEX25S/25-PC-Multi-Spline-Screw-Extractor-Set

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18 hours ago, New Englander said:

Did you get through with a single stone or wear out several? I'm going to pick up a couple just to have.

Every now and then I find a Dremel tool handy for something. First time I've heard of grinding broken tap but it sounds like a good out if you can't weld onto it.

I used 2 stones, but it was a short bolt, probably only 5/8” long.. 

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12 hours ago, Pid 1831 said:

I was wondering about left handed drill bits?

Are they any good?

Whats people's experiences with them?

I habe to say they are like the proverbial Rocking Horse Poo over here.

wurth do LH drill bits,            

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I broke one off and sliced my wrist open on it, almost severed artery in my wrist.  Those went in the trash

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The success rate in my mechanic experience using easy out  1 and  twenty. . 

Heat and punch broken easy out to loosen it side ways to release it 

Use a vertical milling machine carbide cutter as fast as you can turn cutter and cut it out 

Use a small center drill and start drill very small holes around broken easy out to loosen care not to break drill 

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I used to keep successes like these in one of my tool boxes then one day I tossed them all. I then started to take some pictures. I had a couple of EZ outs recovered like the tap pictured. Should have snapped a pic.

The Dremel tool and stone sound like a great idea.

Welded in the blind around steering column on some of the manifold bolts. Not pretty but effective.

Tap extracted with nut.JPG

manifold bolts.JPG

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I have used a dremel many times even to remove fragments of broken drill bits or ez outs.  I also have found the dremel useful to grind a hole on center.

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As New Englander pictures show you don't need to be super welder to put nuts on broken studs and cap screws. I think a lot of the success comes from heat getting farther down the broken piece with the arc than putting a flame on the little at the top. I have had very good luck in cast iron radiator tanks by arc welding nuts on. It is so easy just try again, give it more cooling before trying to turn. Some I weld 5 or 6 times,but they have all come out that way.

 

My easy outs only get used on hydraulic fittings anymore.

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