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jb812

Case 9380 quadtrac transmission problems

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I have a 9380 qaudtrac with 12 spd powershift. It has been running great until one day going across the field it just felt like you hit a wall and it killed the engine.  After restarting and attempting to move, I noticed it now has very, very violent clutch pedal engagement. Then just as soon as you shift into 4th gear, it's like you hit a wall again and it will kill the engine if you don't clutch it soon enough. 

After talking to Jay at Big Tractor Parts, we did the upshift and downshift solenoid test thru all gears with the engine off. Everything seems to be normal. NO error codes. 

Jay recommend that when I hit 4th gear, to upshift very fast and get past that gear. I was able to do that. Gears 4,5,&6 seem to be the trouble area. Gears 7,8,&9 worked great. Then as soon as I hit gear 10, the engine was immediately killed. 

It will also kill the engine as soon as you shift into 2nd reverse. 

I do have a service manual and have done alot of reading. I don't currently have the right fittings to hook up pressure gauges, but I can go get them. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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Rear clutch on the 4th shaft failed. Not good news. 

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12 minutes ago, SDman said:

Rear clutch on the 4th shaft failed. Not good news. 

This is why this forum is so great.   An answer to what is wrong from a few paragraphs typed up.    Granted it's not good news but he now knows the checkbook will hurt.   Glad you are a member on here SDman!!

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Thank you for the help. Any advice on where to go from here. We could remove and reinstall the powershift ourselves to help save money. That would have to be during a late summer project, but I don't want to open up the PS inside myself. 

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Big Tractor Parts is very good with those transmissions, you can pull it and ship it to them. They also stock rebuilt trannys.  

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I'm not sure if a powershift transmission is really anything to be afraid of. I've watched videos of powershift transmissions being taken apart and reassembled, and they seem to be mostly steel baskets filled with fiber and steel disks, separated by planetary gears. The key seems to be paying attention to how it comes apart, and keeping things clean.

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Well, there are a few things to consider here.

First thing, no matter which direction you go, is to make sure you get the correct transmission. A 9390 powershift wheel tractor and a 9380 Quadtrac use a beefier transmission compared to all the other 91/92/9300 Steiger powershifts. Top 2 shafts are heavier, they use a different transmission controller, and a few other changes were made to handle the increased HP. I'd say to walk away from anybody that tries to tell you "They are all the same". They are not.

How many hours are on the machine overall and has the transmission had any previous work that you know of? Lot of variables here....and its your $$$ that you will vote with. If its lower-houred, I am guessing that most of the damage has been to the 4th shaft mainly. The front clutch on the 4th shaft is your master clutch(your clutch pedal/cable control this clutch for modulation). I'm guessing its not much better shape than the 4th shaft rear clutch since you say the transmission is awful jerky when using the clutch pedal.

If its higher-houred, the remanufactured route will probably be the way to go.

As far as OH'ing the transmission, its just a lot of heavy components to work with. No planetaries, just straight-cut gears. Clucth packs need to be shimmed on those for proper clearance/operation. Worst part of those things is setting all the shaft endplays properly. Takes time.

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I need to make a correction here. Its actually the front clutch on the 4th shaft that is giving you the problem, not the rear one. The front one should release in 4-6 gears and 10-12 gears forward. Since the tractor kills in those gears, that tells me its not releasing as the rear clutch on that shaft is engaged. That would also explain the poor clutch operation with the clutch pedal as well. The 4F clutch is the one that is hooked to your clutch cable and is considered the Master Clutch for those transmissions, although it operates quite differently than the Master Clutch does in a Magnum transmission. Unfortunately, that still means you probably have a big transmission problem.

Since I'm a believer in simple/cheap/easy things first, I want you to remove the transmission filter from the tractor. Its the filter on the LH(ladder side) side of the tractor beside the engine. Dump the oil out of it and see what you got. If it smells and looks like tar from the heat of the warped/burnt clutch, you probably won't need to do much further diagnostics.

Generally speaking, the 4F clutch is probably the one that gives the most problems due to the fact it is the one you slip when you use the clutch pedal.

Apologize for the error. Too many long days lately. 

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Thank you for the help. I will check that filter and report back with the findings.  Things have been a little busy here. Also, the tractor is currently 4-5 miles away from our shop. Should I just get somebody to haul it for us or will it cause more damage by driving it in 9th gear?? It would be a very slow drive tho. 

The tractor has around 5700 hrs. I don't think the powershift has ever been touched. But I don't know for sure. We have owned it for about 4-5 years now and never had any major troubles. 

 

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Well I attempted to get the filter off and look inside, but I'm currently unable to do so. 

I started to loosen the filter and it just keeps spinning, kinda hard, but does spin. No oil leaking from the gasket area at all. Filter just keeps spinning and getting nowhere. 

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Been there done that on a MX240. The canister is crimped to the canister base and the canister slips round on it. Had to remove filter base cut canister off and then get a grip on the canister base and turn off.  Was a reel pain in azz as there’s little room to work. 

John

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Hmmm...I wonder how much it would cost to get the tractor hauled to Highmore, SD--where you KNOW somebody knows what they are talking about!😄

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Why is it that it seems like we have more problems with filters not being crimped at the seam properly anymore? They either slip at the seam like you describe when you go to remove them, or they leak at the seem when you first start them up after installation. 

You might also pull the dipstick and see/smell what the oil is like. 

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