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BenM

New TD15BP owner

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Hi Everyone, Just bought a TD15BP. From the serial number it is an early (1963) model. 

Goes OK but needs some TLC and maybe an engine rebuild in the near future...

Where is the best place to get manuals? 
In the meantime, does anyone have a photo of the exact location of the grease nipple for the track tensioner?  Is there an easy way to measure if it is already fully extended? 

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Not exactly sure on the 15 but look on the yoke right behind the idler, might be a plate covering the zerk and tension release. One quick and easy way to tell on extension is to see how close the front of the yoke is to the front edge of the track frame, close to or even sticking out is a good sign rails are junk.  

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For manuals try binder books. Good quality compared to others. 

John

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Thanks guys. A couple of pics attached. I need to weld on some new grouser bars very soon. 

 

20190602_091206.jpg

20190612_144908.jpg

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Ooo nice! That ripper would be handy..

Where are you located?

I have pdf manuals from jensales.. i could send you those if your wallet is light. 

Mine is light because my fuel pump failed ha... ha...

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Yes the ripper was a big selling point and has already come in handy. I am in WA.

I would be happy to pay you for a copy of the manual, rather than come company that is trying to profit off scanning a book.

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That's interesting stops on the push arms, I know the blade cylinders were prone to damage when they bottomed out, seen a lot of guy's weld chain from the hard nose to the blade to stop them. Looks like your rails are junk, front idlers are way out and the sprockets don't appear much better, not worth welding bar on better off trying to find new or newer chain or maybe turn or replace pins and bushings.    

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8 hours ago, pede said:

That's interesting stops on the push arms, I know the blade cylinders were prone to damage when they bottomed out, seen a lot of guy's weld chain from the hard nose to the blade to stop them. Looks like your rails are junk, front idlers are way out and the sprockets don't appear much better, not worth welding bar on better off trying to find new or newer chain or maybe turn or replace pins and bushings.    

Interesting that the blade cylinders on our FA 10 have internal valves that activate at top and bottom of stroke and eliminate bottoming.  At least as factory standard.  One must have had the threaded end of the shaft damaged and was shortened.  The stop on that one was a large nut welded on.  And the limiter valves had been put in backwards and the ones for bottom travel squashed.  I thought I was going to have to make  a set but our supplier got new ones from Italy in about a week, along with a new spring for one of the quick drop valves.

That was where I found that getting new shafts made up isn't that expensive.

What brand of rippers?

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I've only seen the home made stops on the 15B, and maybe only certain serial numbers. You have to remember that IH's R&D were the costumers.   

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An IIRC from TD 15 days - not that either current TD 15 poster is in the transmission as yet.

The Shire (local government ) of the time here had one and I was friends with the workshop boss.  His summation was "Good as Cat till 8000 hours, then - - ".

Somewhere in there they had (presumably power shift) problems which required some new gears.  On assembly and turning over by hand it bound up.  Further research found that the teeth pitch had been changed and you had to change both sides.

Afraid I don't have more details as we buried him a while ago.

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Not uncommon, had a gear go bad in my 20c and not only had to replace the bad one but 2 others to the tune of around $15,000, found a used set out of a 20b that worked just fine for $500. One neat thing when we did that was it took a 300ton press to push the gears off the shaft, everyone clears the shop when it's operating and the operator is in a protected room, made a good bang when it decided to come loose.

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On 6/22/2019 at 10:28 PM, pede said:

That's interesting stops on the push arms, I know the blade cylinders were prone to damage when they bottomed out, seen a lot of guy's weld chain from the hard nose to the blade to stop them. Looks like your rails are junk, front idlers are way out and the sprockets don't appear much better, not worth welding bar on better off trying to find new or newer chain or maybe turn or replace pins and bushings.    

Don't think that is a stop thing for the blade it looks more like a cover for the blade tilt hoses where they run along the top of the blade arm and go over the track frame. All the 15 Bs & Cs we had had the tilt hoses coming out the front thru the radiator grill and across to the blade. The chains that were welded on were usually to stop logs coming over the top of the blade and damaging the rods.

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