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22-36 engine rebuild


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Hi all, 

 

I was working on my 1930 22-36 restoration this weekend and when I was taking the pistons out I noticed that one bearing looked to be in bad shape.  I know that they were originally babbitt bearings and am not sure on a course of action to take.  I have considered just leaving it as the tractor won't be worked too hard once it is running again just plow days and plowing matches. The first two pictures are of the wear on the bearing and the third is comparing it to a bearing that appears to be in good condition.

Any suggestions on what options i have would be greatly appreciated as I am hoping to get it running this summer so that my 83 year old grandfather can relive his child hood of learning to drive on a 10-20 when he was six.  

bad bearing 1.jpg

bad bearing 2.jpg

bad bearing 3.jpg

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I have a 22-36 rod bearing, it's an insert type machined from brass with a thin coat of babbit. Mid production change? The thing is a work of art! It weighs 2 1/2 pounds!

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As small of a piece of babbit bearing material is missing I would not worry about it and just run it as is. These old engines are very forgiving!

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On 5/26/2019 at 5:42 PM, Gearhulk said:

Hi all, 

 

I was working on my 1930 22-36 restoration this weekend and when I was taking the pistons out I noticed that one bearing looked to be in bad shape.  I know that they were originally babbitt bearings and am not sure on a course of action to take.  I have considered just leaving it as the tractor won't be worked too hard once it is running again just plow days and plowing matches. The first two pictures are of the wear on the bearing and the third is comparing it to a bearing that appears to be in good condition.

Any suggestions on what options i have would be greatly appreciated as I am hoping to get it running this summer so that my 83 year old grandfather can relive his child hood of learning to drive on a 10-20 when he was six.  

bad bearing 1.jpg

bad bearing 2.jpg

bad bearing 3.jpg

run her as is . just check the clearances with plastigage , as u might need to remove some shims.  I have seen many of those brgs. like that. your not going to spend 2000.00 dollars to have new ones poured. also run a 40wt oil in it. even 20-50 is even better. I have a couple of 22-36 tractors.

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That babbit might have been like that from day one! BTW, why does one have an oil groove and the other doesn't?  Replaced at some time?

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You sure thats not an insert? Kinda looks like one to me? Groove makes me think insert as well as it looks a lot like the inserts in my regular i had apart a while back.

Agree tho it looks like it may have been like that since day one.

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That bearing properly adjusted will run a looooooong time. remember its a IHC tractor that was way over built in America -an built to run forever so don't worry about it........ and it wants to go plow........ALL day long.

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On 5/30/2019 at 8:23 PM, R Pope said:

That babbit might have been like that from day one! BTW, why does one have an oil groove and the other doesn't?  Replaced at some time?

I'm not sure why one has an oil groove and the other doesn't.  I was under the assumption that it was so worn so much that the oil grove disappeared.  I still need to pull the corresponding pistons out of the block and check the connecting rod side of the bearing.  I have also been in contact with a local machinist that has plastigage and will help me adjust the clearances accordingly.  The only issue is that the engine that these bearing are out of is attached to a transmission that seems to be locked up and the tractor that has a good transmission has a locked up engine ... so an engine swap might be in my future.  Also thanks for all the help I will update this tread with my progress and more questions as I am still new to restorations and have never rebuilt an engine of this size before.

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I've gotten a used bearing from Alderson tractor for my f20. IMO i would put a used one in.The oil groove is missing (which should be seen like the other ones ) I had called a place i believe that was down in Kentucky ??? You need to do careful measuring and send the info along with however many bearings you want poured. Sticker shock.... i can't remember how much though. $400  maybe ??

                        Thanks Jason

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  • Gearhulk changed the title to 22-36 restoration help

I noticed this difference today between the fan belt pulleys between the parts tractor and the tractor that I am restoring.  I was wondering what the extra spot for a belt is for.  I have read in the repair manual that it was possible to get lights on the tractor so was this meant for running a generator to power lights?  However I don't see anywhere a generator would mount.  Any information on this would be great.

pully wierd .jpg

pully good.jpg

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Well a lot has happened in the last few days.  I got the engine unstuck on the tractor that has the good transmission which means I don't have to go to the work of pulling the block off the parts tractor.  Dropped off the head at my neighbor's to get it cleaned up and the valves ground.  Looking at the governor however I have an issue.  One of the parts I was hoping to pull off the parts tractor was the front of the governor that holds the shoe and the shoe lever.  This was because the shoe on the good tractor is flat spotted and looks to need a new shoe.  The problem is the internals of the governor on the parts tractor are different to those in the good tractor considering the tractors are 171 serial numbers apart so they would have come out of the factory within a day of each other.  The first tree photos are the governor on the good tractor and the governor that is depicted in the parts book with the third photo being the flat-spotted shoe.  The last three  photos after that are of the governor from the parts tractor.

grey govener 1.jpg

grey govener 2.jpg

grey govener 3.jpg

red govener 1.jpg

red goevener 2.jpg

red govener 3 .jpg

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the one that I'm restoring is  143444 and it has the shoe wear and the same governor as what is shown in the parts book and the serial number of the parts tractor is 143273. After further inspection of the parts tractor governor it appears to be missing some springs to bring the weights back in as the engine slows down and I can probably get my neighbor to make a new shoe for it.  With how good of condition the rest of the tractor appears to be in I've come to the assumption that the only reason the tractor was parked was the shoe wear in the governor because most of the piston rings look almost brand new however because it sat so long the engine got stuck and a couple of rings broke as I was removing them from the cylinders.  

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  • 6 months later...

Haven't posted an update in a while as I was sourcing parts and waiting for the head to get rebuilt.  Then next thing I knew it was September and time to go back to University.  Between school and getting everything ready for harvest and then the struggle that harvest 2019 was i had no time to work on the tractor.  However I have rebuilt the magneto and got the head back from the machinist.  So hopefully over Christmas I can get the cylinders honed and the pistons put back in and the head back on.  Hoping that i will have more time on weekends this winter to work on the tractor as I'm hoping to have it running this coming summer. 

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  • Gearhulk changed the title to 22-36 engine rebuild
  • 3 months later...

Well since my university schooling got moved to all online for the rest of the semester I have had a lot of time to get work done on the tractor. Lots of progress has been made, the cylinders were cleaned out and honed, new rings on the pistons and the pistons reinstalled and as of today the head and oil pan are back on.  After I got the head on i was going to install the water pump but something wasn't quite right the gasket for mounting the water pump has a hole in it that matches up with the head but the water pump doesn't have the same hole.  Should there be a hole there for water to pass through to the pump or is the hole there for a pipe on 15-30's which didn't have a water pump?  On the water pump it looks like there was a hole there at one point but it might just be cavitation from the hole being there or it could be full or rust and dirt and something else for me to dig into.

IMG_0847.thumb.jpg.40766261d5754364e67a49ee3a23dbb9.jpgIMG_0852.thumb.jpg.4a493866324b5bf74f763c21f8e87d4c.jpgIMG_0850.thumb.jpg.82e933448f9adc450abfd449dedc3651.jpg.  

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Maybe take a small hammer and tap on that spot on the water pump? Seems like that should be open, if not how would any water flow into to pump, right? The only other opening would be the outlet right?

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19 hours ago, RBootsMI said:

Maybe take a small hammer and tap on that spot on the water pump? Seems like that should be open, if not how would any water flow into to pump, right? The only other opening would be the outlet right?

I took another look at it today and it didn't want to tap out.  I wasnt too concerned about the water flow because there is already an inlet and an outlet on the other side.  I was just wondering if water was supposed to flow from the head.  However I looked in the outlet with a  today and couldn't see a way for the water to flow to reach the impeller so I'm leaning toward the hole in the head being a left over feature from pre 1929 when the engine was thermo-siphon.

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