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560Dennis

Fuel ⛽️ leaking from Carburetor Kohler k301

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Well haven’t had time time to fully enjoy the troubleshooting process . But the carburetor was giving me trouble at the tractor pull. Stalled out halfway down the track. Like it was out of gas. 

Well I had trouble getting to trailer , so me and another’s hguy helped me push it on. 

I didn’t see it leaking gas. So I pushed it into the garage. Mistake. I should always from now on shut gas valve off. 

Went out to the garage and smelled gas ️ . Oh oh ! 

Gas on the concrete. Clean up put some purple power on the area and oil dry to soak it up. 

Push it outside and put a pan under the air cleaner , and bowl . Gas heavy drip out of. 

Took the bowl of ,very dirty. 

I think I’ll get a kit for the carburetor.  I don’t think there’s a filter on that line , that’s like a 3/8 line isn’t it. 

Any way any ideas 💡 of what else to do ? 

 

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You don't say what model tractor. But if it doesn't have a sediment bowl there is a screen in tank on shutoff valve.

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1 hour ago, snoshoe said:

You don't say what model tractor. But if it doesn't have a sediment bowl there is a screen in tank on shutoff valve.

1000 with a k301,

i thought there was a screen in there. I forgot. 

Disapointed with the black dirt in the bowl of the carb 

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There is a tank screen yes.  Or at least there is supposed to be.... It is on the tank valve.  If you get a new one, make sure and get a tank grommet too.  Replace the gas line as well.  Rubber will flake off the inside of the hose and get in the carb. 

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On 5/12/2019 at 6:33 PM, 560Dennis said:

1000 with a k301,

i thought there was a screen in there. I forgot. 

Disapointed with the black dirt in the bowl of the carb 

Should be 1/4" fuel line.  There's a Real tiny flow passage just inside the Carter carbs that's the real restriction.

Biggest problem is the soft aluminum fuel bowl,  distorts when tightened and doesn't seal against the square cross section ring in the carb body.  Set the bowl on a flat surface, carefully tap the bottom down so the bowl rests on the center circle where the short capscrew seals,  then install.  OR, order a steel float bowl from Dave Kirk Enterprises,  or is it Dave Kirk Engines?

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right  now , only way to move under its own power is to pull out choke and leave it out .👈👀

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12 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

That is usually main jet obstructed or not enough gas in carb.

Thanks get a some time and kit for a 26 mm 

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New hose, add fuel filter, rebuild carb....all is well....

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9 hours ago, Mr. Plow said:

New hose, add fuel filter, rebuild carb....all is well....

Adding a fuel filter will cause problems on a gravity fed system.  Seen it many, many, many times.  You can run a screen style "disc" filter, or a sintered filter, but not a paper element.  For the record, the fuel tank screen is plenty filter enough.  You just need a good tank screen, and that's it. 

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I have not experienced that issue, but always get "Gravity flow" rated filters. 

Either way, they need clean fuel.....

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9 minutes ago, Mr. Plow said:

I have not experienced that issue, but always get "Gravity flow" rated filters. 

Either way, they need clean fuel.....

While "clean fuel" is important, the tank screen gets it clean enough.  The micron of the screen is just as tight as any screen style fuel filter, or "gravity rated" fuel filter.  Using two filters of the same rating is unnecessary. Plus, a carb is far more forgiving than an injector.   You don't need a 10 micron filter on a carb. 30 or 40 micron is just fine. 

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I use a Mr. Gasket Clear-Vue fuel filter from Summit Racing,  $12-$13 each, they are cleanable, can completely disassemble them.  Used them on motorcycles, my Cub Cadet 70 & 72.  I even had one filter out water from the gas till the filter wouldn't pass any more gas,  Cubbie sputtered and died, disassembled the filter, cleaned it up, you can see the dirt thru the pyrex tube around the nylon filter element. Reinstalled the filter and Cubbie started right up.

I find the sediment bowls are just a perpetual leak, I replace them with shut off valves.  The new plastic 2 gallon OEM gas tank I got from my local CC dealer about 10-12 years ago has a quarter turn gas shut-off in a rubber grommet on the bottom.

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I find screens and sediment bowls to filter the gas fine, don't cost extra, were original equipment, and don't leak unless you constantly mess with them.  If a 40 year old sediment bowl gets to leaking, I replace it.  Then it's good for at least another 10 before it might need a new bowl gasket. 

Take bowl off once a year or so and clean it.  If you have to do it more often than that, find somewhere else to buy or store gas. 

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2 hours ago, J-Mech said:

I find screens and sediment bowls to filter the gas fine, don't cost extra, were original equipment, and don't leak unless you constantly mess with them.  If a 40 year old sediment bowl gets to leaking, I replace it.  Then it's good for at least another 10 before it might need a new bowl gasket. 

Take bowl off once a year or so and clean it.  If you have to do it more often than that, find somewhere else to buy or store gas. 

What I suggested has worked fine for 35 years,  if the OEM parts were so good why did they leak when less than 5 yrs old? ANYTHING with a cork gasket like those old sediment bulbs will leak.  The Mr. Gasket filters seal with Viton o-rings. I have 4 of them, never had one leak.

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2 hours ago, DOCTOR EVIL said:

What I suggested has worked fine for 35 years,  if the OEM parts were so good why did they leak when less than 5 yrs old? ANYTHING with a cork gasket like those old sediment bulbs will leak.  The Mr. Gasket filters seal with Viton o-rings. I have 4 of them, never had one leak.

I have no idea why you had trouble with them.  I'm glad it worked well for you, but I find nothing wrong with the original equipment they used.  Most all of the Cubs I own had the original sediment bowl or screen when I got them, and after replacement have held up fine.  I think the biggest problem are guys who like to shut the gas off after each use.  I see no reason to close the valve unless I'm working on the fuel system.  If the carb suddenly runs a tank dry, I just fix the problem.  In the last 20 years of owning Cub Cadets, that's only happened once that I can recall.  Closing the valve repetedly seems to cause them to leak, while also letting the bowl gasket dry out as natural evaporation occurs.  Maybe you never mess with your valve.  Not saying you do, just that it causes as many problems as it prevents in my opinion.  

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