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1086 sway blocks?


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Hey all. Been here a while but haven’t posted much. I hate to ask for help.... but I’m about to pull what hair I have left out. Long story short...... my old sprayer finially played out and I bought a new 300 gallon 3 point. Was tickled to death the first day.... but soon realized I had a big problem. My Ace spray pump is the old 540 pulley drive type. Once it’s put on and the sprayer mounted every time I turn right the lift arm will hit the pump. NOT good. My 1086 is an early model that doesn’t have sway blocks... only the torsion links. Is there anybody that still makes the blocks that will limit the travel? Years ago I had a neighbor that had a set and he said they worked great. I’ve been looking at making something myself but just can’t get my head around how to mount it. Anybody have any suggestions? Thanks a bunch y’all.

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27 minutes ago, striker782 said:

Here you go 

 

743A7352-B210-4257-A50C-40620777683E.png

 

I have a set of those I had on my 1206. 

Are you sure you have the stabilizer lock pins in? They limit how much the arms will move side to side.

 

KIMG0202.thumb.JPG.3d660b3839b855428ffcaf815f846271.JPG

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25 minutes ago, tricky826 said:

You well have to change a bunch of stuff thare it’s a told  different setup. you could try to get a used three point hitch setup from a wrecker 

Don’t have to change any parts. Installation is fairly simple. We installed some of these at the dealership I used to work at. Just have to pay attention to the width that you want the arms to be and make adjustments to fit 

 

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Is your hitch set for cat two or three.   Lower eye bolts are offset and one way is three and other is two.  Also, a dimension for setting the hitch spread when fully raised in either cat.   Quite a bit of adjustment unless completely worn out. 

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8 minutes ago, pete23 said:

Is your hitch set for cat two or three.   Lower eye bolts are offset and one way is three and other is two.  Also, a dimension for setting the hitch spread when fully raised in either cat.   Quite a bit of adjustment unless completely worn out. 

Mines pretty sloppy either way. Lots of years on the ol gal. 😉Honestly though I think it’s set up for Cat III. This sprayer has Cat II hardware. Dies it take up that much play when it’s changed?

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2 minutes ago, TNtrapper said:

Mines pretty sloppy either way. Lots of years on the ol gal. 😉Honestly though I think it’s set up for Cat III. This sprayer has Cat II hardware. Dies it take up that much play when it’s changed?

 

2 minutes ago, TNtrapper said:

Mines pretty sloppy either way. Lots of years on the ol gal. 😉Honestly though I think it’s set up for Cat III. This sprayer has Cat II hardware. Dies it take up that much play when it’s changed?

Better do some measuring, with nothing on hitch, and hitch fully raised, you want 32  and 7 /16 distance between inside shoulder of the ball in hitch link for a cat two implement.  They came from factory set for three and many , many never get changed when using cat two. 

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25 minutes ago, pete23 said:

 

Better do some measuring, with nothing on hitch, and hitch fully raised, you want 32  and 7 /16 distance between inside shoulder of the ball in hitch link for a cat two implement.  They came from factory set for three and many , many never get changed when using cat two. 

Gotcha.... I’ll check it and see.

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50 minutes ago, FarmerFixEmUp said:

 

743A7352-B210-4257-A50C-40620777683E.png

 

I have a set of those I had on my 1206. 

Are you sure you have the stabilizer lock pins in? They limit how much the arms will move side to side.

 

KIMG0202.thumb.JPG.3d660b3839b855428ffcaf815f846271.JPG

Well dang .... I don’t think mine has EVER had that pin on the side hole.......

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+1 on the setup from Klinger................was running a mounted 2 shank ripper between tomato rows with the 1456 and couldn't keep the stock setup tight enough for my likes, called out there and talked to the owner(Can't remember his name) but I was telling him what I was doing, he said it would work, and he would send me them to try and if I liked them I could send a check.  I thought to myself, that must be one stand up guy to do that these days! They weren't that expensive so I sent him out a check and he sent them to me, put them on and they have been on there ever since, I personally think they are great.  It let us dial the hitch sway right in to next to zero easily, to do the same on the green ones of the same vintage we had to make shims, ect.  AND, they took the abuse of that heavy JD ripper, that also had a strip till coulters/basket behind each shank without any issues.  

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I made a 2-3 in wide X 5-6 in long X app 1 in  thick block of steel and clamped it to the inside of the arm with 3/8 bolts, heads counter sunk in block. Set to desired width by sliding block on arm. Closer to lower ball = wider, move farther from ball = narrower. No cost as I had metal on scrap iron pile, just 4 bolts out of bolt bin.

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