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5288 valve cover removal


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Well stopped at dads the other day and now after two of his mechanic friends tried to fix his leaking valve cover on his 5288 he asked me of I wanted to try! He doesnt usually let me touch his stuff no matter how much stuff i fix of mine own in his shop! Father son deal. Im sure some of you can relate! 😕But any how long story short but dad says you gotta pull everything off the top of the engine to get the cover off the air box on top is the main thing do to the a piece of sheet metel over top of the cover in the front! I have never worked on a 88 series but i have fixed all my leaking valve cover gaskets on my 10s and 9s! O was just wondering if thier is a short cut to get that cover out without tearing the air box off? I didnt look at very long last night hoping to do this today! Now this 5288 did get a replacement dt466 before dad bought it so maybe the valve cover on a original 88 series is different thats why this cover was hard to get off before! Any thoughts would be appreciated!     

 

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I don't remember everything you have to remove, but certainly not the whole air box.  If you worked on your own you are familiar with the poor fit of those covers .  I always put cover on with no gasket to alter any of the guides so it lays down on head.   No sealer on dry surface so gasket will adher properly.

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Never completely removed the air box to get the valve cover out.
Muffler has to come off. And maybe a shield up above the alternator IIRC.

3 minutes ago, pete23 said:

I don't remember everything you have to remove, but certainly not the whole air box.  If you worked on your own you are familiar with the poor fit of those covers .  I always put cover on with no gasket to alter any of the guides so it lays down on head.   No sealer on dry surface so gasket will adher properly.

Concur with Pete about making sure the cover is not distorted. I wipe the contact surfaces and gasket with denatured alcohol right before installation. 
The valve cover bolts torque to 25 Inch Pounds.

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This isn’t going to help you much but I am going to tell you about my 5488 valve cover experience. Neighbor who is a little odd ,stripped oil drain plug on his 5488 about 20 years ago. He borrowed a tap to fix his 806 plug before so he came over to borrow tap again but I think 5488 was different thread. I told him no problem I will come over and braze bung on oil pan for new plug. So I go about getting everything ready start to braze plug bung. Oil that was trapped in pan smoked then exploded blowing smoke out of drain hole then sucking it back in. I removed pan fixed plug put it back on. Then a day later had to replace valve cover gasket that blew out in the ordeal. Lucky it didn’t blow rear main seal out but you live and learn. From what I remember you had about an hour work to get valve cover off.

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You will have to remove the exhaust pipe, muffler, (if still equipped), air filter housing, and air induction tubing. I think on mine I’ve actually pulled the turbo, too just to make it easier.  As far as the air box goes, I’ve gotten by with loosening the 4 air box mount bolts and gently prying up enough to get the valve cover out.  

         I don’t know what you’re going to use for a gasket, but AllStates Ag sells a rubber valve cover gasket for the 400 series engines, I’ve had very good luck with them.  With either the cork or rubber gaskets I just use a small amount of gasket adhesive (permatex high tack) in a few spots to hold the gasket to the cover.  The gasket has holding tabs built into it already, so I just use a little adhesive in a few spots.  As stated above, the torque is 25 INCH pounds.  

     As long as you have the cover off, it’s be a perfect time to check/readjust valve clearance.

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Putting a new valve cover gasket and turbo on the 5488.  I didn't have to take air cleaner housing off but induction tube, eliminator, and the breather tube of course.  Also the heat shield in back of the air box.  Think I'll take the thermostat housing off and replace the thermostat while I'm at it.  Retired cih mechanic helped me last fall on the other 5488 do the same job.  He torqued the cover bolts down hard.  Told me in his experience, gasket would leak right away with only 25 inch pounds.  It's not leaking so far.

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There is a sheild bolted to the rear of the airbox that has to come off. 4 bolts that take a 10mm socket. Take a look at the breather on the top of the cover too. They like to leak there too. On my breather I used a rubber gasket. I made sure the flange was flat and siliconed boht sides of the gasket and set the breather housing on there and ran the nuts down just a litte past touching and then let the silicone set overnight and then finished tightening them the next morning. The new valve cover gasket I got from CaseIH looked like some kind of a felt type stuff. Not sure how well it will work but figured it would be better than the cork one I had in the set.

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