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bill z

300 Hydraulics Question

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Sunday, I’ll be replacing the O ring seals in the hydraulic system. We got this tractor that had been sitting for 3 years. Now that we filled it up with Hi-Tran, it leaks from between the boxes that has the lever to control the lift and the body where we put the Hi-Tran.

Is this as simple as removing the 4 bolts that hold the power box (I think that is what the box is called that has the aluminum levers that control the 3 point hydraulics) and the main body that keeps the hydraulic fluids, replacing the O rings and bolting it together again?

How much fluid will I loose?

What do I need to know?

 

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Bill If I remember right, you have the utility.? With the utility, the resivor is so shallow that I would expect that you may loose most of the oil, tho I have not had to do this. The drain for the resivor is on the left side, near the front. If power steering, there will be either a tee or ell in this spot to let the return back. I would try to catch as much as possible by draining the resivor before removing the valve blocks/regulator block.  The blocks have a recess  for the o ring, but with three per block, it is advisable to put a little grease on the o rings to hold them in place. Make sure that the hitch is supported as it may drop if your tractor does not have the 'no drop' valve in the line. Tighten the bolts evenly. Good Luck! 

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Yes, I have a 300 Utility.

 

What if I jack up the right side of the tractor and place cinder blocks under the wheels, tilting the tractor to the left trying to keep the fluid in since the valve blocks/regulator blocks are on the right side.  Would that keep the fluid in the reservoir when I removed the valve blocks/regulator blocks?

 

I see that the valve blocks/regulator blocks can't be removed with the finder mounted.  The bolts will not come all of the way out and they are stacked.

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I don't know. But should help.

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To let you know, Yesterday, I jacked up the right side of the tractor and set the tires on cinder blocks.  That tilted the reservoir enough that kept the hydraulic fluid from running out and kept me from having to drain the fluid. Thinking back, I could of driven it to the ditch and parked it on an angle.

Using break cleaner, I cleaned all of the surfaces and replaced all of the O rings holding them in place with a little grease.

I torqued the bolts to 55 foot pounds to get them even and tight.

Today, when it warms up, I'll use spray on engine cleaner and wash the tractor all around the hydraulic so when it drys, I can see any new leeks from the old ones.

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