4586: A Rebuild/Repair

[J-Mech]

So I had posted some pics of the 4586 that we got up at the farm and are going through.  It sparked some interest and several members wanted to follow along so this is going to be the official thread.  I have been sharing the progress of this build with members of my forum, which, while it isn't relevant to my Cub Cadet forum, it's still fun to share off topic things.  It may take me a while to catch up to where I am on the project though as this started in December.  Well, here we go! 

A little background: 

My name is Jonathan.  The farm I work on is a family owned operation with a father (Randall) and his son Chris.  The other son (Steve) works for a local farm service, but also helps out.  (I only mention names so that I can reference them as something other than "the boss" or "the father".)   These guys are distant cousins of mine and the closest relation I have that still farms.  My granddad and dad both farmed, but dad got out in 85, granddad carried on until around 2010 or so.  I started helping these guys during season about 10 years ago, and now work there full time.  It's nice to be back on a farm.  Just some quick background on me for those who don't know, I have spent the last 20 years as a heavy equipment tech.  Few years at CIH, then opened my own shop.  We worked on almost anything with a motor.  Probably about 65% of our work was automotive, but the rest was heavy equipment.  Spent about 15 years there, then took a job for a short time for a large fleet company running two shops for them.  That job didn't last long, as the company was restructuring and I lost my job after 18 months.  That was 2016, and while I do still turn wrenches and do some carpentry jobs on the side, I spend most all the time at the farm.  

So, Randall was kind of in the mood to buy another tractor.  After quite a bit of conversation, we convinced him it was probably in the best interest of the farm to step up to a true 4wd tractor.  We needed to speed up tillage work, and the other tractors were maxed out in equipment width.  So, we found and he purchased a 4586 fairly locally.  It made tractor #21 to the fleet, lol!  (No, we actually don't farm all that many acres, but they seldom sell off tractors.  They still have several tractors that were bought new on the farm including a Super C in all it's original glory along with a 300 Utility.  I won't list all the other tractors at this time, but we do have a couple Magnums, and 3 2+2's.)  So, this 45 was a low hour tractor with 2400 hours showing on the tach.  We got it from basically the original farm it was on.  The original owner passed away and left his farm to a neighbor, as he and his wife had no children.  So, the owner we got it from had "inherited" it.  Since then, it really hadn't been used.  Unfortunately, it had sat outside what appeared to be most of it's life.  It had been repainted at some point, but it was still pretty rough.  It hadn't been run in a couple years and we later found out that it died during that run (they were moving it into an old barn).  So, we think it had been probably 5 years or so since it was run, and maybe 10 since it had been used.  They guy we bought it from didn't really know or remember when the last time it was used.... but he did guarantee it to run.  If we couldn't get it started and drive it, he would refund the full amount.  After a couple trips down, they decided to buy it.  So the work began to get it running again.  Here's how it sat when we went to look at it. 

As a note, these were the pictures from the for sale ad.  I did not take them, so they aren't that great.  I promise, better pictures later, lol. 

 

 

[J-Mech]

I had forgotten to mention, that this is a very early SN tractor.  SN# 998, which I believe makes it a 1977.  Obviously, early paint scheme and before several of the "upgrades" made to the series, including but not limited to hydraulic power brakes, different parking brake system, different dash, tach with EGT and maybe a few other minor things. 

Back to the story: 

So, we went down and found the fuel in the tank to be basically solid on bottom as it had bio diesel in it.  Nothing would flow through the fuel lines.... but when we removed the rear frame filter it would drip out with about the same consistency as molasses.  We took the fuel lines off at the back of the engine, and ran them into a 5 gallon bucket.  To our relief, the lines at the engine still had good fuel in them.  We spun off the old filter at the engine, bled the system and put in a new set of batteries.  We though we would try and see how the engine spun over.  We figured it wouldn't start, so didn't pull the fuel kill cable.... or if Chris did, he didn't pull it far enough to keep it from running.  I think we both needed to clean out our underwear when he cranked on it because the dang thing started after about two or three revolutions!!!  And I mean it fired right up!!!  A small puff of gray smoke and that old girl came to life!  Chris shut it down pretty quick and we had a good laugh.  "Didn't expect that!!" One of us hollered, lol.  So, we checked out some more stuff and decided to try it again, only this time go ahead and let it run. 

Here's the video: 

Read below, then play the second video to see the next issue we had to deal with. 

So, it ran a little rough in the video because we didn't have all the air quite bled out, but over the next few minutes we got it running good.  We finally decided to try and move it out of the barn and drive it around.  That's when we found out the clutch was stuck.  It didn't really surprise me, but more on that half of the story is coming later, so I won't get ahead.  The only way there was going to be any chance of that big double clutch getting freed up was to start it in get and get it out where we could try and unstick it.  So, we had to stop and see if we could get the brakes to work.  The reservoir was dry, and the rotor pretty rusty.  The parking brake lever was stiff, but did move. We filled the reservoir and bled the brakes out.  We stuck it in low reverse and backed it out.  Then started trying to get it the clutch unstuck.  Just so everyone knows, I've dealt with this before, so this wasn't unfamiliar territory.... but never had a clutch stuck on a 4wd tractor before.  Getting a pickup or semi unstuck is one thing...... but something that you can't get moving that fast, that's different.

[hillman]

I was scared when that thing fired up after sitting so long and buddy didn't pull the throttle back .hope the oil pressure was there quick? keep the pics coming ! love those old tractors. 

[J-Mech]

10 minutes ago, hillman said:

I was scared when that thing fired up after sitting so long and buddy didn't pull the throttle back .hope the oil pressure was there quick? keep the pics coming ! love those old tractors. 

You know..... that actually scared us too.  The oil pressure I mean.  The gauge didn't move once we got it running.  But the light on the dash went out, so we were pretty sure it had pressure.  Also pulled the oil fill with it running to see if oil was coming up to the rockers.  It was, so we assumed that the gauge or sending unit just wasn't working.  We put it on the "to do" list.  

Oh, I promise, the pictures are coming.  I have about 140 of them so far.  I'll keep updating here shortly.  Thought I'd let guys read up and get the thread going.  Plus, I got kids to get to bed.  More to come! 

[D1206]

This is pretty cool, nice to see the old girl being brought back to life. 

[J-Mech]

Continuing on... 

We were unable to get the clutch unstuck at the barn, but the tractor did start run and drive as promised, so it was time to take it home.  We grabbed a fellow farmer with a rollback, drop trailer and paid him to haul it the 50 miles home.  Thank goodness he had a winch because no one wanted to drive that thing up the that trailer!  Didn't take long and it was loaded and home.  But now... what to do with it. 

 

 

We discussed different ways to try and unstick the clutch, but feared tearing up more things (or worse) with some of the ideas.  We decided to try and play tug-of war with another tractor to see if we could jar it loose.  What happened next, I wish I could share.  Randall took video of it with his phone...... but technical difficulties with the input device (a nice way of saying he isn't too tech savvy) left it to stay on his phone with no way to share.  We first tried the 856.  It has loaded tires, it was handy to get out, and we didn't really know how much it might take to break it loose.  Ok... that was funny.  Here we are in the driveway on the farm, with a really large log chain between and 856 and 4586 and we are getting ready to play tug of war!  It looked like adults vs the kids, and ended up just about the same.  The 45 drug the 856 around backwards with the brakes locked like a toy at only an idle.  We tried different gears, jarring it... you name it.  That clutch never even attempted to break free.  Well, if the 856 isn't big enough, lets get a bigger tractor.  Now, the 2+2's are closer to the weight of the 45, but out of sheer fear of hurting a rear end, or a set of brakes, we opted for the 7250 MFWD Magnum.  It has duals, and is up there in weight, and no fear of hurting that tractor.  So, we went and got it out of the shed and tied them up.  Ok.... that looks closer to a fair fight.  LMFAO..... NOPE!  This time the 45 not only drug the Magnum with the brakes locked while in 4wd, Chris put it in forward while I sat in the 45 dragging him down the driveway with my foot on the clutch at about 1400 RPM.  The Magnum tires clawing forward with all 6 wheels and just cutting a furrow in the drive.  We tried it about 4 times.  The final pass the Magnum finally dug down to hard dirt and got a bite, and did manage to stall out the movement of the 45.  The tires slipped.  It was a draw.  We gave up.  Time to pull the trans and go after the clutch. 

After some debate and time spent looking over the rot on the cab, we decided it was probably best to just take off the cab.  We knew what getting clutch out with the cab installed entailed, and it didn't sound like much fun.  The neighbor has a hi-lift in the shed about 1/4 mile away, so we gave him a call to see if we could borrow it.  First he had to come take a look at the new monstrosity and watch the tug of war video.  After some laughs, he of coarse obliged the use the lift. 

Before we began, we formulated a plan of what we wanted to accomplish with the machine in it's entirety.  The nasty fuel was drained from the fuel tank, which took some time.  Once the crud was loose from the drain hole it went quick.  We knew work needed to be done there.  The lower portion of the cab was rotted pretty bad, and we had no idea how it would look under the floor mat.  The metal plate area near the door that holds the mat in was rotted and gone.  The brake master cylinder was leaking to a steady drip into the cab and under the mat.  The cab kit was gone, as seen in the pics above.  When we were inspecting the tractor, we noticed that the slip tube between the turbo and the "S" pipe had fallen out, and it looked like the turbo exhaust housing was beyond fixing.  Turbo removal was going to be a must.  We found the water pump to be a bit loose, but not leaking.  All the fluids were to be drained, and a complete set of filters, belts and some hoses installed.  (Main upper and lower radiator hoses look fine, and we plan to leave them.)  Some hydraulic hoses... maybe all the hoses need replaced.  The paint sucks.  No one liked the location of the batteries, and we thought we would like to relocate them, but no official decision was made as to where or how.  I made a list, and we got ready.  Quick wash off on a semi-warm day then the tractor was pulled in and the disassembly work began.  By late afternoon the cab was ready to come off.  We waited until the next day and started that.  

 

Just as a note, I'm doing this all by myself unless I mention getting help.  Not bragging, just making sure the story is understood.  We also have cattle and the guys stay pretty busy with just that.  I'm the mechanic.... this is what I do, lol.  

 

The cab was set outside for the time being to be looked at later.  After the cab was off, it was but a few hours and the trans was ready to come out.  Again, the other guys got busy with cattle, and I couldn't pull it myself so we waited until morning.  I didn't yet have a service manual on the tractor, yet I could see the trans bell housing sat in a hole in the top of the front diff housing.  It looked to me like it would come out, so we pulled it without jacking up the engine.  After getting the manual and reading, I saw where it said to jack up the engine.  I do agree it would make going in easier.... so it will get jacked up to go back in.  

[J-Mech]

Once the trans was out, it was time to see what made that clutch hold so tight.  There was no water in the bell housing, but it was obvious it had a lot of condensation and perhaps even a little water ran into it over the years.  For those unfamiliar, the 4586 used a dual disk, 14", 6 pad button clutch.  This one still had the original clutch in it.  The buttons on the clutch were made from the best material at the time in 1977... a semi metallic pad.  They did hold good, but when moisture on a semi metallic pad and a steel flywheel get together, things get rusted stuck.  At this point we knew it was getting a new clutch anyway, and of coarse it would be ceramic.  When I got it out, here's what it looked like.  The pads were stuck so hard, I had to take an air chisel to one of them to get it off the intermediate plate in the clutch.  It was STUCK.  As a note, the clutch pin on the lever at the the trans was pretty wore out, to say the least.  Randall was suddenly worried it had been the whole issue, but I assured him it wasn't.  When he watched me chisel the clutch disk off he agreed it was stuck, lol. 

[856 Custom]

J-MECH, your pictures with the cab off of the transmission and engine, and the one with the transmission removed brought a smile to my face. I was like O yes, i sure remember that. I also remember in your picture with the transmission removed that left hydraulic hose on top of the differential cover blowing and that was a royal complain to replace! Also one time one of the hydraulic hoses going to the hand pump blowing and blew oil on the exhaust elbow. I was on the other side of the field and saw a huge cloud of white smoke and thought what now. I went to where it was at and the guy who was running it was wound up for sure! Lol! He shut it down right away, but it lost alot of oil in the short period. Like you said, good idea to change all the hydraulic hoses now. 

[gafarm49]

this is a great thread! thanks1

[Jeff-C-IL]

Boy this all sounds REAL familiar.  Mine was a 4386, but also a early SN - 763.  Otherwise, a dead ringer--even down to the funky white light in the cab and the leaking master cylinder.  (BTW--that is a common Master you can cross parts for online, IIRC the seal kit on Amazon was about $30).    Flush the brake fluid before it ruins the brake calipers---HARD to find!   They don't want to stop too good w/o brakes!

I just pulled the whole front & Engine when I rebuilt the clutch (Twice) on mine.  Dad just could not keep from revin' her up and popping the clutch--he actually got the center carrier plate so hot it snapped in two.   As you know, these old girls have TRACTION...and its pretty easy to fry the clutch.  After the second clutch job, the clutch never went in or out without 1) the implement being out of the ground & 2) the engine at or near idle.  Obviously you know how to adjust these clutches, so you are ahead there.    ONE CAUTION- NEVER EVER turn with the motor reved up, you will toss the lower front driveshaft off the brake disk.  Always use the decelerator to knock a couple 100 RPM off when turning.  The tractor will let you know: if its starts vibrating while turning you need to slow down!  Grease the driveshafts daily.

I had a complete Chassis service manual...went with the tractor when I sold it.   I still have some wiring schematic PDF's if you are interested.   I added a boost and EGR gauge set to mine and it made a HUGE difference in how I drove the tractor--no more lugging, etc.   I realize the 800 is a very different engine than the 466, but I found that if you pulled the throttle back until the boost just started falling off, the tractor would just eat ground, but go easy on fuel.

The batteries are really not bad at all.   Just crank the steering over, and its actually pretty easy to get to them...way easier than a 1066 with Hiniker cab.....   The front one is a bit of a stretch, but they are secure, protected, and out of the way.    If anything, run a set of "charge points" out to where its easy to hook up booster cables, like the newer machines.

As I mentioned before, replace the Lights with LED.  Your wiring & switches will thank you for it.    Also, see that set of hearing protectors on the shifter?  You'll need them, the tranny gets a bit noisy under load!

I made a oil tank to mount under the front end, and had a pump that drove off the A/C belt.   Used it to run a hydraulic sprayer pump.  Tank is still sitting out back somewhere - If your interested PM me.   We once had the main pressure hose to the valve block blow....emptied 40gal of oil everywhere--in seconds

I always wanted to move the muffler to the fender, but eventually grew to like that rugged looking hood.   What I love about the 4x4 design, is the tractor goes exactly where you point the nose...no sliding, jinking, bouncing front end.....and it turns WAY sharper than the FWA.    Takes a little getting used to, but I think you will really like it.   No way will I ever go back to a FWA.  Lets put it this way, I had a JD 8270R a couple years.  (Long story).  Front suspension, all the bells and whistles, auto downshift.   Sold it and bought a CIH 9230 4x4 to replace the 4386.   The only thing I miss is the auto downshift (Lazy!).   

Anyway, great thread!

[CubNamedOscar]

What a big beast!! Always loved these... a 4568 Is still my Dream Tractor. That's if I can ever find one.. Not now though got enuff projects. 
 

[Wes806]

What a beast they are. Nice to see it being bought back. Keep it going. will be looking forward to your progress

[J-Mech]

Thanks for the comments and interest guys.  I wasn't really sure if I would have any interest in this or not.  Should have known better..... it is after all an IH machine, and not one people generally go through.  Not many in use any more.  Honestly, they were pretty scarce in my area too.  Lots more green Steigers than IH 4wd tractors.  Only knew of a few.  They were either 45 or 4786's.  I don't know of any 43's in the area.  Dad had told me he really wanted a 4366 when he farmed, and I thought even demo'd a used one, but never bought it.  

@Jeff-C-IL 

I'm sure that we will like the tractor a lot.  I'm not a stranger to 4wd machines, but the other guys have never ran them.  Going to be a big difference getting used to it over the 2+2's I think.  One big difference I think that at least Chris will like is the 45 steers much easier.  FWIW, 2+2's steer pretty hard really.  

On the master cylinder, yeah... it's an easy cross. I already have a new one.  Actually got it at O'Reilly's for like $45 if I recall correctly.  Wasn't much.  As far as the calipers and flushing the fluid, yeah... it will be flushed out.  I'm going to take the calipers off and go through or replace them.  I have a contact list about a mile long of vendors from when I owned my shop.  I'm confident that they fit another application and won't be too hard to find.  The master cylinder fit other IH truck applications.  I'm betting the calipers were either used on GM or IH trucks.  Steiger used a lot of GM stuff and IH liked to use parts from the truck division for things.  I'll be surprised if I can't find reman calipers.  If I can't, I have a vendor who should rebuild them or at least get me parts so I can.  I'll keep you guys in the loop on that. 

While on that subject, for any transmission parts, contact General Truck Parts.  I use the Chicago branch.  They knew the trans by the model number, and I got like 4 or 5 gaskets from them with no issues and about 1/3 the price CIH wanted for 2.  They told me no issues on parts availability for that trans that they were aware of.  It was used in a lot of other applications. 

Thanks for the offer on the PDF files.  I'll holler if I need them, but I do have all the original IH manuals now (reprint editions, but very good quality) and they have the wiring diagrams.  Pretty easy wiring really.  Not much to it compared to say a 2388 combine, lol.  Or even a later model lawn mower in some cases, lol. 

As far as the driveshafts, they will get daily grease.  We ran 2+2's for far too many years not to ignore greasing driveline and hing joints.  I will say I think you likely had some other issue in the driveline to throw the shaft off the front axle.  Shouldn't do that no matter the RPM.  Maybe it was loose, or the telescope worn out... or the t-case swing not right... something.  Shouldn't have done that.  But I'll keep an eye on it. 

On the batteries, the other guys just don't like the location.  They think it will be easier if they are on the outside of the frame.  The later '86 4wd's and the 73/75/7788 tractors had them mounted under the cab on the top step.  I think that's where they are going.  Personally, I would be fine leaving them as is, because I'm a smaller guy, and I don't foresee having to get to them often, but I don't own the machine.  They are a pain to get too, and it will open up the inside of the frame for access to other items, such as the driveline and brakes.  When we went down and got it running, it took a lot of work to get them out as we couldn't start it to steer it to one side.  Even if they had a jump post, they were basically froze and dead, so I doubt it would have ran.  So, if all the batteries happen to die, you can't steer it to change them out.  Not debating, just stating another point of view.  

I'm going to be very upset if we need ear muffs to run this when done!  We plan to line the cab with Dynamat sound insulation, a new floor mat, and cab kit along with new cab mounts.  Hopefully, that will take any ringing and metal noise vibration out of it.  Dynamat (or similar brand) has proven to be fantastic where I've seen or installed it before.  My brother did it to a Chevy truck he used to own, then installed a kickin sound system in it.  With the doors shut, you couldn't hear the radio blaring inside.  On the inside, it reduced road noise tremendously.  This will be the first tractor cab I've installed it in.  Hopefully, it will do what I've seen it do in other applications. 

On LED lighting, I'm definitely pushing for that..... I think it will happen, but we'll see.  I'd just like to know what the difference is between a $35 LED work light and a $100 LED work light.  Any comments are welcome!!!  I'd love to hear what others have used with good success! 

 

 

Now, lets see if I can pick up on getting you guys caught up to where I'm currently at.  Not sure I will get there tonight.  I've only made it to about the end of the year (December/ early Jan) so far!  Lots done since then! (In terms of work, lol.)

[J-Mech]

So, lets see......  

I recently cut ties to the shop I had used for years (like 15 years at least) for my clutch and driveline work.  Too bad too, as they had done such good work in the past.  So, I had to go looking for a new shop.  Made some quick calls, and was referred to Mid-America Clutch in Evansville, In.  I called them up and gave them the application, clutch numbers and info and got a guy who knew the clutch.  He said that all parts except the cover disk were still available, and suggested bringing it to them, as in the past shipping companies had broken the covers and then everyone involved went on the hunt for a good used core.  So, we drove it down.  (About 100 mile one way trip.)  In less than a week it was rebuilt, flywheel turned and ready to install.  This time with ceramic buttons instead of semi-metallic.  We did at this time consider doing the upgrade that IH suggested, which was going from a 1 7/8" input to a 2" input shaft, but decided against it as the input on the trans looked fine, and saw no benefit to spend the extra money.  A decision I hope we don't regret.  Not sure why that was a suggested upgrade (by IH), but I'm betting that as mentioned earlier, a lot of guys liked to pop the clutch with the engine revved or with a tool in the ground, which likely broke a lot of input shafts.  I think we'll be ok.  I don't recall exactly when in the work I reinstalled the clutch, but I did.  I did drill a 3/8" hole in the bell housing at the dimple to let out any water or oil that may get into the housing, as there was no hole from the factory.  Can't be a bad decision.  

[tractors82]

Love those old girls. Never seen one with linkage. Most here were bareback. Done alot of work on the DV800s. Everything is mega heavy. Only failure Ive ever seen was a camshaft lobe or liners eaten through. The timing cover weighs as much the head? Parts in the US are a bit easier to obtain than here.

[J-Mech]

While the clutch was on it's way out the door to the rebuilder, I started work on the turbo.  We don't know if it was from sitting outside, or just wear, but the expansion pipe between the turbo and the "S" pipe had become very loose and was actually out of the turbo when we inspected the tractor.  Something we were actually happy to see, as that was no rain water was able to get into the engine.  The top of the exhaust pipe was rotted pretty badly, and we wonder if the pipe was even covered while it sat out.  I removed that ridiculously large and heavy cast S pipe and removed the turbo.  I again, called up the shop that did my injection/turbo work when I was in business to find out they had sold out and were under new owners.  Still very helpful, the guy was familiar with the turbo and said it could be fixed, but he was not able to do the work in house.  He suggested contacting Area Diesel Service in Carlinville, Il.  I did, and once again found a group of guys who knew exactly what I needed.  He said they would be able to machine off the old flange on the exhaust housing and weld in a new one.  They could make it back stock, or put on whatever flange we wanted.  We opted to go with a flange to accept a V clamp so we could install a pipe to run the exhaust out from under the side of the hood for a side stack pipe.  I drove the turbo to ADS and they began the work.  To skip ahead in the time line, but staying with the turbo trouble, when they went to disassemble the turbo for inspection (I asked them to check it all out even thought they and I both thought it looked and felt fine) they found out the center bearing housing was rotted out and basically fell apart when they went to take the exhaust turbine housing off.  A new center housing was available and installed.  The work to the exhaust housing was done and the charger shipped back to us.  We got it in late Wednesday afternoon last week.  We unboxed it and it looked fabulous.  Cudo's to ADS for great work.  I didn't get any pics of the charger yet, but will when I go to install it.  Price for the work I believe was well within an acceptable range.  Here's a pic of the charger's wore out housing before it was sent in.  (Again, I'll post pics of the rebuilt charger later.)

 

 

[J-Mech]

With the clutch and turbo sent out for rebuild, it was time to get the cab inside and start stripping it down to see what it needed.  After some short consideration, it was decided that it needed stripped, blasted, repaired, repainted and redone.  Starting over was the best option.  Took about two days to strip it all out.  (I can't always stay on a job all day like in a shop.  Stop to help out somewhere, wait for a helping hand, stop to fix something else.... farm work you know, lol.)  Here's some pics along the way......

 

 

 

 

The cab was completely rotted at the doors, so I decided to cut out part of the cab floor that was covered below by the frame work.  This way, it could be blasted inside of that area, and repaired.  I figured why not blast out that cavity while doing it.  I wouldn't have to deal with welding on rusty metal that way during the repair.  Cab was completely gutted out, and after the cutting out the lower panels it and all associated cab parts were sent to the sand blaster along with the hoods, and front grille housing.  Basically all the sheet metal and parts above the frame.  I did run a descaler in the cab before sending it out.  I knocked off as much rust scale as I could so we could see how big the holes really were.  They were much bigger than they appeared to be before the paint holding it together was chipped off.    Before going out, I took pictures of all the decals, and measured everything.  The early style decals I can't find anywhere, so a local vinyl shop is going to reproduce them for us.  I'll post more info on the vinyl when the time comes.  No progress made on that yet, other than initial discussions, pictures and rough cost was laid out.  

 

 

 

Unfortunately, I did manage to break the last window I removed..... the freaking windshield of all windows.  The largest one.  We're going to have a new one cut for us.  Too bad that the original decals on the window fell apart when it broke.  I was however, smart enough to photograph them before trying to remove the glass, so we may have them made also.  But the clear one with starting instructions was clear with black words.  The vinyl shop can't make a clear decal.... so not sure if we will even mess with it or not.  

 

[TractormanMike.mb]

Thanks for sharing this project with us, looks like a fun one. I will give you my opinion on led lights, you get what you pay for. If you only work in the dark a handful of times in a season then the bargain led lights will work good. If you guys like to run all hours of the night then spend the money on the better lights, they seem to last a lot longer. I used to put led lights on case skid steers because I got tired of changing bulbs at $10 a crack, oh yes and I could only get them through case. I put two $50 led lights in the place of all the plastic and they seemed to last about six months, mind you they were on all the time. You mentioned you run 2+2s, what numbers? I've been around and inside a number of 35s and 37s.

[Doc Egor]

Did you add the grease hose to the throw out bearing? That is another must grease daily item.

Been a while since I was in a 1010-2A Spicer, be careful that they install ag spec bearings rebuilding the transmission.

The truck spec kit will give you ball bearings for the countershafts, the ag spec will have double row offset spherical roller bearings. The ball bearings will not stand up long term in an ag application.

The 2" input shaft would have been a good idea, but if it isn't going to get run over thousands of acres it isn't the end of the earth.

 

[J-Mech]

2 hours ago, TractormanMike.mb said:

Thanks for sharing this project with us, looks like a fun one. I will give you my opinion on led lights, you get what you pay for. If you only work in the dark a handful of times in a season then the bargain led lights will work good. If you guys like to run all hours of the night then spend the money on the better lights, they seem to last a lot longer. I used to put led lights on case skid steers because I got tired of changing bulbs at $10 a crack, oh yes and I could only get them through case. I put two $50 led lights in the place of all the plastic and they seemed to last about six months, mind you they were on all the time. You mentioned you run 2+2s, what numbers? I've been around and inside a number of 35s and 37s.

Thanks! 

I appreciate the experience with the LED's too.  To answer the question, no.  We don't work at night much.  Oh, we will run in the dark, but we only have about 12/1500 acres to get over.  (Sorry, no one can tell me the exact number.  Some is in pasture, and set-aside.)  Usually, we will run into dark for a couple hours, and on occasion to finish up a field or area.  I'm usually the one who will run until midnight, but that is only 2 or 3 times in the season.  Not a big deal.  ANYTHING has to be better than the incandescent 4411 lights!!  

We have a 3588 since it was new.  Added a 6588 and then a 6788.  Chris has the 67.  When they brought it home, it looked decent, as in it had been painted, but not well, but the engine locked up it's first day in the field.  I had my shop still then, so they bought it in.  Actually drove it.  After it cooled it started back up.  We pulled the head and found nothing.  They wanted me to button it back up, but wanted to dig a bit deeper.  Pan is easy to get off, so I pulled it.  There it was.  It has scored a piston.  You couldn't see it up top, but could down below.  When we tore it down I told them it had happened before they bought it.  PO must have scored it, painted up the thing and sold it off.  They wondered why it was cheap for as good as it looked.  The 35 and 67 have rear duals and 23 deg Firestone deep treads all around.  The 65 is pretty rough.  It came from a few miles north of where this 4586 was.  It also had sat out all it's life, but relatively low hours.  It's been a good tractor.  We tore the cab apart two winters ago and put a kit in it, new seat and did some A/C and electrical work.  Not the prettiest, but runs and works like a champ!  

[J-Mech]

2 hours ago, Doc Egor said:

Did you add the grease hose to the throw out bearing? That is another must grease daily item.

Been a while since I was in a 1010-2A Spicer, be careful that they install ag spec bearings rebuilding the transmission.

The truck spec kit will give you ball bearings for the countershafts, the ag spec will have double row offset spherical roller bearings. The ball bearings will not stand up long term in an ag application.

The 2" input shaft would have been a good idea, but if it isn't going to get run over thousands of acres it isn't the end of the earth.

 

I haven't put the trans in yet, but yes.  A grease hose will be added.  I don't agree that is a daily grease item though.  I figure the clutch will get used about 5 times a day on a busy day.  And that's if I'm running it because I like to drink a lot.... then I have to empty it out, lol.  Throw out bearings don't need much lube, but they need lube.  

I don't plan to go into the trans, but I had read that the AG spec units had different bearings.  If ever I go into it, I'm sure I would have noticed.  I've rebuilt a lot of trans, but never been into a 1010 Spicer.  Thanks for the heads up! 

I agree, the 2" shaft wouldn't have been a bad upgrade.  But..... it is what it is.  As I stated, it isn't going to get over a lot of acres a year.  We figure if we use it as much as we like, it might get between 100-200 hours a year.  200 ONLY if we do fall tillage.  I think it will be ok.  It ran 2400 hours thus far without it.  But again, no disagreement.  Larger shaft would be better.  

[Doc Egor]

A lot of the issues with those tractors were related to miss use due to people not understanding their idiosyncrasies and not treating with the care they needed.

The extreme heat from those engines really does a number on the pilot and throw out bearings - it literally boils the grease away. A shot of grease does wonders to extend the lift of the throw out bearing.

Of course running 250F - 300F hytran as a lubricant through a truck transmission that originally was designed to use 80/90W was an interesting concept as well.

I've still got a couple of those tractors, your thread has brought back a lot of memories and I'm enjoying seeing the pictures - thank you.

[R Pope]

I have a 4586 with the front diff busted. If you need a parts tractor, it will be cheap! The old girl ran good but wasn't worth fixing. Excellent engine and trans, new clutch. Long ways away from you, though.

[Jeff-C-IL]

Keep the stories and pictures coming!

I agree that you get what you pay for with LED lights.  The difference in price is usually in the heatsink, quality of the actual LED emitters, and the lens.  And of course the lumen rating.    I found that 2500 lumen lights work well for primary light for ag equipment, 800 or 1200 for work lights (like on the unloader spout of a combine).   I've got a couple 3500 lumens on a loader tractor....BLINDING!  Since I also don't run that often at night, I've used these https://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-Volt-DC-2535-LUMEN-14-LED-Utility-Flood-Light-12-999-C.axd  on several pieces of equipment, including the 43.  They have held up real well, never had one fail yet.   Only problem I found was slight yellowing of the lenses after 2 years sitting out.   They also keep the look...very similar in size to the OEM.  On the 9500 combine I bought recently, I went with the TigerLights cause they fit right in.   

The driveline---I was warned about that by both the owner and the Local IH service gurus (very experienced 20+ year techs who have since retired).   I think the angles don't quite work out right because of how the rear ends sit in there.   I also checked it out and could not find any problem with timing, etc.   Its obvious --the tractor started almost shaking at 2600 rpm/5 mph when turning,   slow it down to 2100 and its goes away.  Hopefully yours will be different.

If you can find a replacement caliper....Please share it on here!  I did a bunch of searching online and at shops, but never found anything close.   I had a couple guys tell me it was an IH or GM truck part....but could never find anything close in either search.   I'm sure you gotta find the right guy!

My tractor was loud because of transmission whine.   At 2600 rpm it could get .... shrill.   Pretty sure it was the Low speed countershaft gears- in 6th gear it went away, but I never had the power to run in 6th.   Of course, mine had 4500 hours too.     The Dynamat should help a lot!   

IDK if you still have the original seat in that, but its just a coil spring with a shock.  Sorta like my dads 400!   The shock went bad and from then on it was.... "bouncy"......   CIH wanted WAY too much for a new shock, so I put in a used air suspension seat.   Much nicer ride.   I figure thats probably already on your list, but just a suggestion.

One other mod I did to  mine was I took the parking brake pedal assembly out of a car (78 Olds IIRC) and mounted it to the left of the clutch.   Let me remove the hand brake lever & put in a little buddy seat for the kids.  

Am really looking forward to seeing how you make the RH console, etc!.   

[J-Mech]

Ok, so I'm going to try and catch up a bit more tonight, and go back through the responses..... but first, I would like to see if any of you guys with these can help me out on a couple things real quick. 

So, the interior of this thing was already out (as you saw in the first pics) and was missing a few things.  I'm missing a few parts, and some interior pics would really be helpful if anyone has a tractor with good cab foam in it.  What I'm missing is below: 

There is supposed to be a bezel around the HVAC controls up top and to the right.  We don't have it.  If anyone still has that, can you take a picture and post it?  Is it attached to the cab or the interior cab foam?  I don't see any holes for mounting it.... so, I'm assuming it is just held on with the foam?  Or is this a later model piece? Parts book does not give a SN# break for it, but it does list 3 different foam pieces for that corner of the cab depending on SN.  Odd... I don't know what changed.  Anyone have a pic? 

Second, the cab was also missing the top rear panel that covers the exterior light wires, and holds the speakers.  If anyone has a pic of that it would help.  Making one isn't the issue.... It appears to only mount with 4 screws to the angle iron on the back of the cab.  I think we need to add some more braces up top, but I need to see how it looks mounted with cab foam in it.  Does the upper foam go back beyond it?  Parts book lists a separate piece of foam for it, so I'd just like to see how it should look, if anyone can help out.  

Last thing, we plan to convert the parking brake over to the new foot pedal style on the dash.  I know where it goes, and I've looked at the parts book.... but what I need to know is, is it mounted to the dash, or the cab front plate?  Perhaps both?  Parts book isn't clear, and none of the service manuals show it either (unless I missed it).  If it mounts to the front of the cab, are there studs?  Threaded holes?  Any help is appreciated.  We are trying to make it as close to stock as possible.  These guys love stock (original) tractors.  We seldom modify anything unless there is good reason, and we all hate the location of the early parking brake.  We like the later one.  I think I found the automotive application for the foot brake, but I'm going to do a bit more digging.  Or.... if anyone has a parts machine and wants to sell the foot style parking brake, covers and mounts, I'm open to that too!  

Thanks in advance!