pt756

another wedge question thanks

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so I got the one side done on the 1466, tried the other side , heated it very long bar on 3/4 inch socket breaker bar., wont budge, it only has about less than one half inch of space between the  2 wedges, can they get so close that they can be really hard to get apart? will but another new set, can you kind of torch them out ? what would work I just don't think they are going to come apart. thanks

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Penetrating oil...drench it, then give it some hard hits with a sledge. Walk away, come back try again. Impact helps a lot to rattle things, but a 4' cheater pipe always breaks them loose. The wedges can get too close and then the wheel just won't stay tight on the axle...when they do that, you need new wedges....and if that doesn't work, a new casting.

Being close together won't have anything to do with getting them apart.

Btw...I have *never* used heat on wedges and don't ever see the need to.

 

Travis

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1 hour ago, pt756 said:

so I got the one side done on the 1466, tried the other side , heated it very long bar on 3/4 inch socket breaker bar., wont budge, it only has about less than one half inch of space between the  2 wedges, can they get so close that they can be really hard to get apart? will but another new set, can you kind of torch them out ? what would work I just don't think they are going to come apart. thanks

Tap on the axle put pressure on. You can cut the head of bolt. If you are comfortable with torch you can get the cast wedge  to blow away. Probably a job left to someone who has a little experience. We have had them stuck like that on a jd dad cut one side out. 

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I have cut  a lot  of wedges out  you have to melt the wedge between the bolt and the wedge  ramp. If a 4 foot pipe doesn't break it  loose it probably has the threads gaulded in the wedge  and it is junk anyway . Working at the dealership at 100 dollars an hour you couldn't  spend a lot of time trying to get them loose only to find them bad after spending a lot time getting them loose.

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hello so it should melt kind of like cast melts with heat?  they haven't been loose for years probably 20 did order another new one. thanks

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Are you using the wedge removal tool? or is the bolt froze? and not turning? I would be hesistant to melt anything around the axle shaft

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hello the bolt will not turn . the other side at least the bolt turned and I did use the wedge removal tool on that side, sat around here for years first time I ever had to use it, was always able to get them loose before, these are being stubborn, going to go out and try again, have s and k breaker bar so it will be replaced if that breaks. thanks

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Wow ok you have a tough one then I have heated the back wedge where the bolt threads into before with some success then I let it completely cool and soak it generously with penetrating oil  you might try that before you melt anything

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Warm it up with the torch and dump brake fluid on it while it's warm, not hot as it will burn, do it acouple of times and then try it......a crusty old fart showed me that years ago and have used it with a lot of success since, I don't know what is in the brake fluid that works through the rust/corrosion, but it seems to do the job for me here.

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thanks for ideas, tried again after milking 3 foot bar and all 200 plus pounds on it and wont budge, will try the heat and brake fluid idea, lots of snow predicted so will probably have to work inside. that was after we shoveled  snow off of roofs also.  don't know how much they can stand but they are predicting 12 inches

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As long as your wrench can take it, you can go twice as long on the cheater pipe and you won't hurt the bolt. You got a 3/4" drive breaker bar?

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We have been on those with 8 feet of pipe and a 280 pound guy on the end and smacked with the 10 pound sledge to get them loose. Just keep trying. Only time we ever torched was if the threads left or the bolt actually broke. In our experience a four foot pipe is only half enough. Just be sure to do the smacking as the owners manual states. Hope it comes loose for you.

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50 minutes ago, pt756 said:

yes an s and k breaker bar will try longer pipe

You need a 4' cheater pipe to tighten the wedges correctly...you're going to need at least that long of a pipe to loosen them.

Travis

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11 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

As long as your wrench can take it, you can go twice as long on the cheater pipe and you won't hurt the bolt. You got a 3/4" drive breaker bar?

My tractor came with the factory special wrench for them wedge bolts works perfect even with weights and a 4 ft long cheater pipe works on it  no sockets and breaker bars to snap off or crack 

IMG_20190212_165643826.jpg

IMG_20190212_165715821.jpg

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Was not aware that there was also a wrench. I know every tractor was supposed to come with the wedge tool, but ones from the local dealer here reputedly did not. They'd allegedly pull them off your new tractor and sell them back to you at the parts counter when you discovered you needed one. Ah the days before the Internet.

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Use a longer bar and jack wheel up with wedge on bottom.  Hit down on axel with 8lb sledge then try to turn bolt . Do this repeatedly until one wedge pops.  I’ve never had one I had to torch out and I’ve done hundreds of them

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If I read this right he hasn't turned the bolt yet. Much less applied any pressure to the wedges. In that case rapping on the axle won't help yet. Correct me if I misunderstood.

 

Be very careful of getting axle warm.

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49 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

If I read this right he hasn't turned the bolt yet. Much less applied any pressure to the wedges. In that case rapping on the axle won't help yet. Correct me if I misunderstood.

 

Be very careful of getting axle warm.

I believe your correct sounds like a matter of getting the wedge bolt loose However heating the wedge won't bother the axle if it comes to that  I have used that method and it works when other things fail I have seen the time I've rounded the head of the wedge bolt  (not good) and had to torch the head off all kinds of fun stuff Haven't had a hard one in yrs now so maybe the worst is behind me 

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If it's had a 4' pipe used to tighten it up it's going to take a longer one to loosen it most likely as it's probably had some time to get dirty and rusty . I had one gall the threads once and had to cut it out on a 1586. I have seen one welded on both sides of the wedge as it split at the threads down the middle. I have no idea how it worked that way but it did

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17 minutes ago, ksfarmdude said:

I believe your correct sounds like a matter of getting the wedge bolt loose However heating the wedge won't bother the axle if it comes to that  I have used that method and it works when other things fail I have seen the time I've rounded the head of the wedge bolt  (not good) and had to torch the head off all kinds of fun stuff Haven't had a hard one in yrs now so maybe the worst is behind me 

The reason I'm so skittish of heat is because had customer who couldn't keep wheel from moving. He welded a short bead on axle each side of wheel. Axle broke at weld going down highway. Driver and tractor survived. But how much heat is to much? I know that I will never find out.

Tractor was a 1066

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6 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

The reason I'm so skittish of heat is because had customer who couldn't keep wheel from moving. He welded a short bead on axle each side of wheel. Axle broke at weld going down highway. Driver and tractor survived. But how much heat is to much? I know that I will never find out.

Tractor was a 1066

Oh My well yea that would do it axles are case hardened  inside is softer steel and any welding done on the outer surface is  curtains once you melt through the hardened part its ruined

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well tried again after milking longer pipe now made a few small turns then stopped, got sawzall out and started cutting them in half. just got get some better blades tomorrow.

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If it's moved a little bit usually with lubrication it can be run back and forth and keep taking it a little more loosen direction. A good impact wrench should be able to get it from there 

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Try warming it up and melt wax into the threads.  The wax will penetrate the threads much further than penetrating oils will.  Oils will burn off, not get into the threads. 

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