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Diff-lock stuck in on 856


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Hey guys, as the title says, I’ve got an 856 with diff-lock. Yesterday I was out moving snow with it, and the diff-lock stuck in the engaged position. I have been doing a little research and found it is a common issue. I’ve tried jamming the brakes forward and in reverse and nothing has seemed to work. I’m curious if anyone has experienced this, and/or knows a way to get it disengaged. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

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Those diff locks on the older tractors were usually not very efficient at locking up the differential so this surprised me that it would lock the wheels.   It's pretty simple so  I would just pull the cover off and take a look at it for a potential problem.  

If it is only the diff lock, you got by lucky; hopefully the reason for the wheels being locked together is not that the differential itself is thrashed.

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That’s what I hear. But the button that engages the diff lock is physically stuck down. The wheels are locked together, however not completely. Not realizing it was stuck in while moving snow, I was using the brakes to steer the tractor. I realized it was still stuck in when I heard some awful noises while turning, and looked down to see the button still down. Otherwise, the diff-lock did seem to help keep traction so I’m assuming it was working as it should up till now. 

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That’s what I hear. But the button that engages the diff lock is physically stuck down. The wheels are locked together, however not completely. Not realizing it was stuck in while moving snow, I was using the brakes to steer the tractor. I realized it was still stuck in when I heard some awful noises while turning, and looked down to see the button still down. Otherwise, the diff-lock did seem to help keep traction so I’m assuming it was working as it should up till now. 

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1 hour ago, kal said:

Should be able pry it up.It's just a small valve. Shouldn't take much to raise it back up.

I had one that was rusted and stuck so that is a possibility also. Mine was stuck in the up position but it could happen the other way if the shaft was rusted and pushed down

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2 hours ago, kal said:

Should be able pry it up.It's just a small valve. Shouldn't take much to raise it back up.

That’s one thing I haven’t tried yet. I did notice, it’s just a small valve underneath, but I’m always a little hesitant to start prying on something I’m not for certain about. I’ll see what I can do. 

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Pull up on it i spray wd 40 on mine on a 966 everytime i grease the tractor mine use to leak oil when i got it cause the valve rod was pitted and leaked no parts availible i had machine shop make me a new rod for the valve cost me $50 dollars! Now i lube it so it doesnt rust! 

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1 hour ago, Gleaner k2 said:

Pull up on it i spray wd 40 on mine on a 966 everytime i grease the tractor mine use to leak oil when i got it cause the valve rod was pitted and leaked no parts availible i had machine shop make me a new rod for the valve cost me $50 dollars! Now i lube it so it doesnt rust! 

My cousin made me one from stainless steel as mine was pitted bad and would stick down along with leak hytran

If anyone is going to be making one stainless steel would be better because the original probably was chromed I assume

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