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Hydro repair advice


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So the old 1026 i know is probably on the weak side! Today i was pawing around at the end of a field on a hill riding a the break trying to get turned around and the transmission started clattering! So i backed off and it quit i know on the highway its not right! It had new hytran and a full service after i got it i put a 100 light duty hours on it since! My question is if i keep running it light duty will i do more damage than what is already been done? Can i destroy something that isnt available parts wise that isnt for a hydro anymore? Not in the budget at the moment for a rebuild! But rather it not totally sit and do nothin! Was picking corn today for the amish!

20190112_141921.jpg

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Continuing to run it isn't making the repair any less costly, regardless of parts availability. That's just common sense talking to me on this one because I don't know hydro repair from a hole in the ground, and speaking from experience on a bullet dodged in a recent repair where damage was exacerbated by running the tractor after an issue was noticed, because the tractor still moved. 

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I've been into a few hydros and this is hard to say.

No one can see into the future and predict further damage.

The safest bet is fix it now.

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Give Herr’s hydro a call.  That’s the all they do.  Spoke with RPRU 2017 in Iowa.  Very nice people & I don’t have a hydro.  Told the guy that,  he said that’s fine.  We must chatted for 45 mins.  Asked what I do,  tractors,  etc.  

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X2 on talking to Rollie at Herrs machine. He can talk you through testing and it can possibly be something simple

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12 hours ago, Gleaner k2 said:

So the old 1026 i know is probably on the weak side! Today i was pawing around at the end of a field on a hill riding a the break trying to get turned around and the transmission started clattering! So i backed off and it quit i know on the highway its not right! It had new hytran and a full service after i got it i put a 100 light duty hours on it since! My question is if i keep running it light duty will i do more damage than what is already been done? Can i destroy something that isnt available parts wise that isnt for a hydro anymore? Not in the budget at the moment for a rebuild! But rather it not totally sit and do nothin! Was picking corn today for the amish!

20190112_141921.jpg

Lee’s repair in Inwood ia has done them for me 3000 goes a long long ways and he’ll split it had one done for 1200

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I had the 826 hydro done at Hoober's. Lou somebody was the man I talked to. they were reasonable. we split the tractor here and sent the center section down for them to work on.

if you got clattering on a hard pull, it might be the splines on the flex plate leaving town. when that gives up, you have no hydraulics, including steering and brakes. not something you want to have happen on a hill with a picker and wagon behind you.

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Was the PTO engaged when you heard this chattering noise? I have seen some implement drive lines cause chattering in the PTO drive train when turning. I have had tractors show up at the shop that the owner was sure they had a problem in the PTO drive train and when we put them on the dyno they worked and sounded just fine.

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4 hours ago, pirlbeck said:

Was the PTO engaged when you heard this chattering noise? I have seen some implement drive lines cause chattering in the PTO drive train when turning. I have had tractors show up at the shop that the owner was sure they had a problem in the PTO drive train and when we put them on the dyno they worked and sounded just fine.

No i usually figured the chattering in that situation is the input shaft goin south! The pto was not engaged it definitely the transmission i dont have the money to put towards it for a full rebuild at this time! So it may sit i been around hydros all my life just never worked on the internals! 

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It is only a phone call to discuss with Rollie at Herrs to diagnose if it's something simple. We had a capsule go bad once, brother in law had the clutch valve (dump valve) go bad , both simple and cheaper things to repair

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2 hours ago, bitty said:

It is only a phone call to discuss with Rollie at Herrs to diagnose if it's something simple. We had a capsule go bad once, brother in law had the clutch valve (dump valve) go bad , both simple and cheaper things to repair

Thanks bitty i will give them a call this week

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"Clatter" is a vary vague term, and when hydro's go bad, they don't clatter, they whine or squawk.  How many hours are on this?

 We have wore out several of them over the decades, so I am pretty familiar with the normal sounds they should make.  Here are a few simple things you can do before you have to break out gauges to start checking pressures:

  1. Check the hy-trans level
  2. Change the round pop-can sized filter on the brake pedal side of the transmission.
  3. Change the main hydraulic filter in the belly and look for flakes or debris.
  4. Check to see if the red hyd pressure light is on - should come on when you turn the key on, go off when you start the engine.
  5. Try the brake test.  The hydro should stall the engine - barring the fuel hasn't been turned way up.  With the transmission warm, in high range, between 3/4 and full throttle, mash hard on the brakes and advance the hydro lever in the forward direction; it should bring the engine to a stall.  If it starts to whine/squawk and hesitate to overcome the brakes, then it's beginning to slip.  

If it's slipping, you may get lucky and find something simple like a broken spring or a sticking valve causing the issue.  We have never been so lucky;  our repairs were either $50 or $5000, never anything in between 😟😕.   If you don't have time or $$$ to fix it, you can add heavier oil to the transmission, which will prolong the inevitable for a short time and stop it from slipping. When our 1026 started to slip to the point it wouldn't go down the road any more, it was degraded to mixer wagon duty.  We drained the hytrans and put in 10w-40 engine oil which bought us over a year of daily light duty, concrete driving, feed wagon service.  Once it got to the point it would only pull itself in low range, it was time for major transmission rebuild.

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