David in Alabama

560 Farmall with no brakes

Recommended Posts

I took the brake housings off the 560 to investigate why it had no brakes to speak of. The problem became very clear quickly: the shaft seals are toast. And I discovered the shaft bearing is bad on the right side. The left side bearing seems fine but I think it makes good sense to replace both bearings and the petal shaft and axle seals while I have the platform off. Is there anything else I need to check on out of the ordinary while I'm in there? Anything I need to be mindful of? 

         Thanks, David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why are you taking the platform off?  The brake shaft seals and bearings can be replaced from the outside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

    I was told that the bull gears had to be pulled off for the change. I may be misinformed. Can I access them by pulling the case side brake surface? If so, how does it come off? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, David in Alabama said:

    I was told that the bull gears had to be pulled off for the change. I may be misinformed. Can I access them by pulling the case side brake surface? If so, how does it come off? 

Why don't you get on ebay and order a service manual..... it will answer all these questions.  Get an I&T book. (If you can't or won't pay for an IH manual.) They're like $20. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry ,never done seals , ,get the it manual , should be able to do it without taking diff cover . 

Replace all the springs and sand blast the disc plates  check for cracks ,my cover was cracked by the hole for control rod comes out. we pre heated it ,and welded it with nickel cast rod and slow cooled in ag lime (submerged submerged it). Or buy one from from a salvage yard . 

I suggest , this drain the hytran  diff fluid and replace . Probably 60 years old . I would say oil change is about $230 , I use Chevron tractor fluid 1000. You will need 15 gallons. Of hytran , get hytran if you can afford and find it from a dealer close to you.i don’t ,not driving 4 hours round trip to dealer closet to me. 

One thing about taking the cover off is you can you can inspect the transmission and diff gearing ,wash out accumulated sludge.

i did the brakes 30 years ago so that’s what I forgot .😂

good luck and take your time, my 560 repair work takes four times longer than I estimate. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your bearing s are in the housing right I think still think just have to remove housing . But with reservation I say ,you need to inspect bull gears , 

sorry never done this , but I could in your footprint someday following your lead unfortunately.

good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go to Jensales and get a repop  IH service manual and use the IT ones to light your fire.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestions. I figured this project would be similar to my 240. I couldn't get the inside brake surface off to be able to see if it were serviceable from the outside. I asked an older gentleman after looking through my parts manual with no help, and he told me he thought the cover needed to come off because of the differential and bull gears. Due to how old the machine is, I thought this would be a good chance to inspect the transmission and so forth, while I go ahead and change all the other seals. I ordered a service manual and it's on the way. Any suggestions on removing that inner brake surface ( without tearing up more than I can afford) would be appreciated!

Thanks again!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the brakes run on the bull pinion, the bull pinion can not be pulled without pulling the top cover. the pinion cage well not clear the bull gear

image.thumb.png.5186aa8f53dea89f85bbc48e985f18f9.png

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The bull pinion can be removed by pulling plate #16 off there are 2 or 3 jacking screw holes you can use to get it loose than just pull the pinion shaft out.DONOT try to remove # 10 or24 that will get you in trouble if the bull gear is not removed first  the seal you want to replace is in #16. A very easy fix .Good luck!

1 hour ago, gordon76 said:

the brakes run on the bull pinion, the bull pinion can not be pulled without pulling the top cover. the pinion cage well not clear the bull gear

image.thumb.png.5186aa8f53dea89f85bbc48e985f18f9.png

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you, R-190! That's what I needed as my buddy told me that the "quill" could be broken easily. He's getting on in years and his memory isn't as good as it once was but he still remembers enough to keep me out of trouble.

    Thanks again to everybody that contributed! I'll check back in with a progress report as things develop.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, David in Alabama said:

Thank you, R-190! That's what I needed as my buddy told me that the "quill" could be broken easily. He's getting on in years and his memory isn't as good as it once was but he still remembers enough to keep me out of trouble.

    Thanks again to everybody that contributed! I'll check back in with a progress report as things develop.

Jack it out slow and even so you start to bind up stop 🛑 tap on it with soft hammer . 

Good luck , wish I was there I want to see how it done also 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't come on her very much anymore, BUT, that illustration is so darn deceiving that it can confuse people.   The plate with seal in just pops out with a couple pry bars , screwdrivers, what ever. No need to be concerned about the bull gear. This is same set up since the Supers.   Then you pull out the bull pinion shaft with the bearing on it.  The bearing is much larger diameter than the gear on the bull pinion shaft so if they show the bearing on the outside, why don't they show the bull pinion on the outside also.  Some one did not draw it up about 60 years ago and it remains unchanged. 

Also, if that 560 has been updated like it was supposed to have been, that ball bearing on the bull pinion is HUGE to say the least.  Also, with the top cover already off, if it has the latest lubrication tube it will be a long U shaped tube  and the housing bull pinion bearing fits into will have a large tapered hole drilled in the top for return  hydraulic oil to spray and lubricate the pinion bearing. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you, Pete 23. It's a '60 model according to the serial number so, it should be the better version. The parts diagram was what was throwing me for a loop.

I want to say thanks again...you fellas are always more than helpful. It's nice to get some good information to roll with while I impatiently wait for the manual to arrive and the tractor is taking up shop space.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, 7288cdn said:

Go to Jensales and get a repop  IH service manual and use the IT ones to light your fire.  

both need taken with pt barnums words    buy a good used,  additionally the last good printer was consolidated to B- 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, pete23 said:

that illustration is so darn deceiving that it can confuse people

been a while since i have had one of those apart and yes the bull pinion well slide out without pulling the deck, Take care removing the plate they well break fairly easy I broke one that was stuck hard

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/9/2019 at 1:42 PM, pete23 said:

I don't come on her very much anymore, BUT, that illustration is so darn deceiving that it can confuse people.   The plate with seal in just pops out with a couple pry bars , screwdrivers, what ever. No need to be concerned about the bull gear. This is same set up since the Supers.   Then you pull out the bull pinion shaft with the bearing on it.  The bearing is much larger diameter than the gear on the bull pinion shaft so if they show the bearing on the outside, why don't they show the bull pinion on the outside also.  Some one did not draw it up about 60 years ago and it remains unchanged. 

Also, if that 560 has been updated like it was supposed to have been, that ball bearing on the bull pinion is HUGE to say the least.  Also, with the top cover already off, if it has the latest lubrication tube it will be a long U shaped tube  and the housing bull pinion bearing fits into will have a large tapered hole drilled in the top for return  hydraulic oil to spray and lubricate the pinion bearing. 

Is that bearing a taper roller now? I think I might have to take it out of my 560 someda. 

is it one of the upgrades ?  Or of the revision to the recall ? Thank s  wish I knew more about it with so many components, to what part number ?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On most of my tractors I take the brake housing to a grinder to get more "pinch" on the new brake disks. Be care full and don't grind off too much. This makes up for all the lost clamping from wear.  Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, 560Dennis said:

Is that bearing a taper roller now? I think I might have to take it out of my 560 someda. 

is it one of the upgrades ?  Or of the revision to the recall ? Thank s  wish I knew more about it with so many components, to what part number ?

 

the outer bearing for the bull pinion is a ball type bearing,  the tapered bearing shown in the drawing (1 and 2) is for the ring gear carrier (21)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now