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Hello red friends;

Best carb cleaner, best method, best solvent, what ever? I have a farmall M carb it was taken apart years ago by this  guy he said the M was running rough and that's as far as it got??  the carb sat apart in a shed for years and now .I own it. The carb needs a good soak, rust in gas ports?? So I wanted to ask what's working today or the past??

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I soak mine in gunk gallon cleaner ,comes submerge basket.  cost about 30 💸

Do it in a warm garage ,place to work better . Set it on something that vibrates,  if you have it, for a cheap ultrasound clean, agitation 

not knowing how rusty 

i all ways put new bushing in throttle  shaft for  the maximum  increase in vacuum. I say it a must do ,you will really see how good you can get the old carburetor will work by doing it. 

The idle circuit on most carburetor have very small hole that require attention to there design and require to be cleaned. Get the model number and look at the circuit to make sure it clean a must do or you’ll never get to run well . 

And make sure all gasket surface will seal. 

 

Depending on carburetor model s that about all I can suggest without seeing it. 

Have fun . 

Make sure the float doesn’t have any holes in it. That a disaster. 

Set the float so it will set just a little deeper  in bowl cause new gasoline  density is different ,as 1950 gasoline .i seen this on my Farmall c zenith and carter will not shut off fuel at needle valve .

good luck 

.

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I don't do things the most environmentally conscience way ever, and some say the most healthy either; unless it's the best way. Here is what I use:

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I usually "strengthen" the mixture up a bit with additional methylene chloride, (technical grade) so it removes just about anything that isn't metal. When those kits are new they are good but the strength falls off quickly after about six months. Add another pint or so of methylene chloride solution and a bit of methanol and your off to the races again. 

The kit is about $150.00 to purchase so a bit much for a "one off" task.

Pretty sure if I lived in California I'd have been dead a long time ago given all the ingredients known to those people only that cause cancer.

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The early GUNK carb cleaner was so powerful it would eat the bucket it came in.  Also would take the skin off your hands so always required gloves to handle.

Believe the EPA decided it was too strong for public use. If it is not for sale in California it is probably a good cleaner.

 Methyl ethyl ketone and Carbon Tetra chloride are also good  if you have access to them.

Most of the cleaner today is not much better than paint thinner or white vinegar . For small stuff I like acetone or lacquer thinner in a ultrasonic cleaner. 

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this is what you need

I bought my ultra sonic cleaner a few months ago, I think someone else here did too, I paid 170 ish? I think for this unit, I LOVE it, it cleans carbs sparkling clean with no harsh chemicals, I throw whole guns in there all kinds of stuff, for the cost of a couple gallons of Tyme carb cleaner I have this awesome thing. best thing ive found so far is simple green and water, put a real nasty carb in for about 3 20 min cycles and put the air to it, I then rinse out any residue from the simple green with a quick shot of aerosol carb and choke and reassemble. you will not regret getting one. 

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OK;  People every one get's a red star for posting on this subject thanks.

 

For all my mechanical parts I've been using super clean full strength, parts are soaked over night most grease and paint fall away finish with a hot pail of  water with a few oz. joy soap oil base stops rust or super clean mix again scrub and rinse. It's not a fast cleaner, keep your hands out of it, don't soak aluminum parts  it will eat it up!!  It don't do much for rust like my carb. not a oil base cleaner you can paint , 1 gal. best for the dollar bought at Wal-mart.

You are now enjoying my life long hobby ******************************************* Armand

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