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Jess_656D

D282 injection pump rebuild

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Has anyone reseal/rebuilt a stanadyne injection pump. Picked up a 656d for the engine. It have gone through a fire starting at the voltage regulator (gen system). Easy to do?

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Jess

         Why do you need to reseal your injection pump?    Is it leaking fuel internally, into the crankcase?   Or is it leaking externally, and where is the fuel coming out?   There are several very good injection pump repair shops that are on this forum.   They will want to know this information to be able to advice you.

GT&T 

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Injection pump rebuilding is something that is best left to a suitable shop.  Not something you should do on a work bench in a shop.  I suggest taking the pump to a shop if it is in need of repair. 

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I bet you could get that whole tractor to run again. I had a 656 diesel with the 282. Only used it during harvest. Had problems with it cranking after sitting for months. Thought problem was in injector pump so I got a rebuilt pump. Still had problem. I added an electric fuel pump to boost pressure to pump. I wired electric pump to a toggle switch. Only need the electric pump to start the tractor after tractor has been sitting for months. If I used the tractor daily I did not need electric pump at all. 

See if you can get the engine running before you start replacing loads of parts. Also on that tractor, the return line goes to bottom of tank and is subject to getting rust, corrosion, and junk which plugs it up. That injection pump will not run with a plugged return line.

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I have cleaned up and resealed a few  not that bad to do with the proper manual and tools ( there are special tools needed) seal kits run around $30.00

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Talk to Ed , he did mine ,I’m glad I had him do it. I figured it out ,I just don’t have the money or time for redos. I don’t trust many diesel shops ,that this a fill in job ,or we never done one , I actually meet one of the so called mechanics that workin a shop, and there’s no way I would even consider any thing done by them 

be real careful about who you get ,and don’t shop on price ,cause that decision is regrettable. 

I would ask how many has this shop done in a he last year ? And ask for reference from them, 

good luck 

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Here is the rest of the story. Bought this over the phone cheep. The seller said the 3pt, TA, clutch and motor was good.

I’m on the fence about un bolting the front end and sticking it on mine.

BUT the fire I’m sure, cooked the steering orbit, steering pilot valve, wirring and flow divider valve. Seriously thinking about replacing those parts for a good runner.  I’m just not sure if the injection pump  made it through the fire ok. I’m a ASE master  gas mechanic but never done a diesel injection pump. Not afraid of it but I don’t know what I don’t know.

thank you for your input.  OH! When I was changing over from mower to blade on my 1st tractor engine running I kid you not this guy walked within 100 ft of me. 

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Hmm. Looks like a project to me. I think your going to have to decide how much $$ you want to put into this thing and weigh out if it’s worth it or not. I don’t want to see any ih scrapped but you may have a whole bunch of money wrapped up before you even know what you got there. I’d try and put some fuel to it and see what happens. What’s it gonna do leak? Shouldn’t need any wiring to make it run. Word of caution those are sometimes a booger to get to pump fuel. A small electric fuel pump may not be a bad idea to prime it up. Mine sits for months on end sometimes and fires right up so I don’t think they need one all the time. Just a cheap in line one would work. 

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I have been repairing those pumps since 1972 and have NEVER seen one where if the tank is above the fuel pump you need an electric fuel pump to get them running. Something else is wrong air will not get in them if there is head pressure from the tank while sitting . Collapsed fuel lines, poor filters, poor fuel,restricted return line or poor cranking speed I will believe. The electric pump is just covering up a different problem. Now for maximum HP way above stock that is a different issue. Just to reseal the pump it is pretty straight forward and simple getting the cam ring to advance piston screw out may be your biggest problem, but if you have any corrosion issues or change any adjustments it could be a real learning experience.

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38 minutes ago, R190 said:

I have been repairing those pumps since 1972 and have NEVER seen one where if the tank is above the fuel pump you need an electric fuel pump to get them running. Something else is wrong air will not get in them if there is head pressure from the tank while sitting . Collapsed fuel lines, poor filters, poor fuel,restricted return line or poor cranking speed I will believe. The electric pump is just covering up a different problem. Now for maximum HP way above stock that is a different issue. Just to reseal the pump it is pretty straight forward and simple getting the cam ring to advance piston screw out may be your biggest problem, but if you have any corrosion issues or change any adjustments it could be a real learning experience.

I agree with you. Except when I first got mine running I had to crank way more than I wanted to on my brand new starter before it finally primed up. I feel like if I had just a little pressure it would have went faster. I didn’t mean it was a must. I would have removed it once it primed up. No different than some guys putting slight air pressure to the tank. Just my .02. 

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I do a lot of pumps for the forum members on here too , Ed and I can fix you up . Like  the other guys are telling you , make sure the fuel tank is clean and dosnt smell like varnish , look at the fuel flow out the bottom of the tank , clean the filter canesters , new filters , check or replace the fuel supply hose from the filters to the fuel inlet on the pump . If you want pull the top cover off the pump and take a look inside , if it has brown rusty looking stuff in there it should come off . . Follow the return line back to the fuel tank and unhook the line and make sure someone hasn't drilled it out , if it's drilled out then look at the top cover of the pump for the return fitting , it may have been upgraded .

Let me know if you need some help .

Danny 

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Fire does some really weird things to injection pumps. I had one come in that didn't even burn the paint on one side, but did melt the lead wire seals on the other. That was a nightmare! Housing would cause head and rotor to bind once it was slid on, so I used a different housing. Then when on the stand, first startup, the head and rotor seized ruining the cog drive belt on the stand. So back apart it came, to put a good used head and rotor in. I wasted so much time on that one. I've gotten very picky when it comes to fire damaged pumps. That is enough reason that I sure wouldn't try making it run on the tractor though. It may already be seized, which is why it won't start now, and it got sold to begin with lol! Good luck, and thanks for the plugs guys!

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I haven’t cranked it.  The paint has been burned off the injection pump which makes me believe it’s had some kind of damage. Again I bought the tractor for parts but just going through the motions to see. what it would take to get it running again. I have another 656d that needs a motor, the burn tractor would be the donor or parts off my  runner onto the burned tractor.   Just trying to make up my mind. 

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The engine might be OK, but I would have the pump gone through by a reputable shop, probably use the guys on here first.  I have had three of them go bad on me in the last year and a half, so I just send them in for repair, which ends up being a rebuild.  Even if you get it running there is no guarantee that the pump isn't needing repair to begin with.  

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On 12/26/2018 at 9:18 PM, Missouri Mule said:

I agree with you. Except when I first got mine running I had to crank way more than I wanted to on my brand new starter before it finally primed up. I feel like if I had just a little pressure it would have went faster. I didn’t mean it was a must. I would have removed it once it primed up. No different than some guys putting slight air pressure to the tank. Just my .02. 

you might make sure the check valve fitting isn't stuck shut  or restricting flow

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Thank you all !  Waiting for a little warmer weather, I’ll get serious with it then.

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On 12/26/2018 at 9:53 PM, DirtBoyz07 said:

I do a lot of pumps for the forum members on here too , Ed and I can fix you up . Like  the other guys are telling you , make sure the fuel tank is clean and dosnt smell like varnish , look at the fuel flow out the bottom of the tank , clean the filter canesters , new filters , check or replace the fuel supply hose from the filters to the fuel inlet on the pump . If you want pull the top cover off the pump and take a look inside , if it has brown rusty looking stuff in there it should come off . . Follow the return line back to the fuel tank and unhook the line and make sure someone hasn't drilled it out , if it's drilled out then look at the top cover of the pump for the return fitting , it may have been upgraded .

Let me know if you need some help .

Danny 

I have a 282 in a td9 only two injectors getting fuel can you help thanks Randy rlc6160@ymail.com

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