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Pertronix Upgrade


suprjohn

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Had a couple tractors that came with them, neither was running and the ignitions were junk, so went back to good ole points and they still run super!--Guess its what ever you like. Talked to a lot of guys that couldn't get them to work on their tractors. Some work, some don't! Too expensive for me to wast money on!--Glad yours worked! thanks; sonny

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1 hour ago, SONNY said:

Had a couple tractors that came with them, neither was running and the ignitions were junk, so went back to good ole points and they still run super!--Guess its what ever you like. Talked to a lot of guys that couldn't get them to work on their tractors. Some work, some don't! Too expensive for me to wast money on!--Glad yours worked! thanks; sonny

2x            ordered 20 kits but dealer still wanted  $90+ ea so canceled  and picked up 30 conventional kits for $275

 glad since electronics are fragile and dont like regular farm life. now should someone let key on too long just refile points and going again.

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15 minutes ago, TP from Central PA said:

I would never go back to points.......I also never followed you left the key on either to fry the module, if you shut off the tractor with the key, why in the world would it be left on?

Have someone (a child perhaps) pull the ignition switch like on a letter series but not hit the starter switch then leave. (Mom didn't know any better). Came to use my H one day raking hay and found the ignition switch out and the battery deader than a corpse. 

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28 minutes ago, farmallman77 said:

Have the button pulled out.   Throttle down and it dies.  Then forget to push in the button.  

 

Chris

kids neighbors helper etc .......wiring ,battery issues, not compatible,not for out in salt elements where most tractors are

   21st century and still use 50's tech in them, over priced

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17 hours ago, TP from Central PA said:

I would never go back to points.......I also never followed you left the key on either to fry the module, if you shut off the tractor with the key, why in the world would it be left on?

I run pertronix upgrade in all my old tractors and pulling tractors, some have been in for over 10 years, no problems. You have to use hot coil and better plug wires, guess you boys need to read instructions and do it right, , how many cars do you see running points now , all the muscle cars from the 50's on have updated  no points around any more. You get 3 times the spark, and run plus with more gap, you'll never foul a plug again.

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Just now, supermpuller said:

I run pertronix upgrade in all my old tractors and pulling tractors, some have been in for over 10 years, no problems. You have to use hot coil and better plug wires, guess you boys need to read instructions and do it right, , how many cars do you see running points now , all the muscle cars from the 50's on have updated  no points around any more. You get 3 times the spark, and run plus with more gap, you'll never foul a plug again.

When I do a tractor I call Brillman and get pertronics, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and hot coil and do it all at once. I ask what he suggests and go with the hottest coil he has / suggests at the moment. Has worked out great on every one I have done so far

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I've put them in my SMTA, 2 SMs, an M, & a Toyota fork truck. Have had one module , SMTA, go bad driving it across the barn lot. Dealer replaced it free of charge. Fork truck would go thru a set of points & foul out the plugs in 3 days. Put the electronic ignition in it 5 years ago and still running the same set of plugs.  I've heard of issues with them but other than the one module that's been it for us. One SM sits out almost all winter on a truck unload augers. If battery will turn the engine over it will start, even in sub zero weather. I do put new plug wires, dist cap, and the new higher voltage coil in when I switch one over. They do offer two types coils, one for vertical mounting & one for horizontal. I buy the horizontal mount no matter orientation of the coil. My dealer says only difference is in what they are sealed withn& a vertical mount coil mounted horizontally will leakm& short out.

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On 12/25/2018 at 1:02 PM, supermpuller said:

I run pertronix upgrade in all my old tractors and pulling tractors, some have been in for over 10 years, no problems. You have to use hot coil and better plug wires, guess you boys need to read instructions and do it right, , how many cars do you see running points now , all the muscle cars from the 50's on have updated  no points around any more. You get 3 times the spark, and run plus with more gap, you'll never foul a plug again.

Still run points in my 428 mustang and anything else that came with em. To each their own.

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wow this debate is almost as hot as the oil treads. 

i have had both points and electronics on my SB chevy's.  i ordered a Pertronix kit for the W6 the day it arrived home. its not in yet but will be the first upgrade on this tractor once i get to it.

i guess that puts me on the Electronic team.... 

 

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To each their own.  That's what makes the world go around.  I'm not trying to change anyone's opinions.  That would be futile. Simply adding my 2 cents.  (That wasn't asked for lol) 

I am an electronic ignition guy.  I like efi and msd  and being able to tune an engine with a computer etc.  

Buuuut.

 

I just dont see a use for electronic ignitions in old tractors.  I have a modest collection as well as dads collection.  They all run points.  New points. Old points. It doesnt matter.  In all the years we've had em I changed the points once and I didn't even need to because I found out the key on the distributor was sheared  off.    They all snap off at a half turn of the crank.  I can have my h and m at bottomed out throttle and hit the button and itll touch right off and purr.  

Dad has an H that is still 6 volt.  Has used it to push snow in Michigan every winter for 40+ years.  Starts everytime.  And for 30+ plus years it sat outside.  

I just dont see the need for em.  They have an iffy reputation for being good vs being junk out of the box.  If ya leave the key on or button pulled out if fries it.  (And yeah you wont do it blah blah.  Have kids. First thing they do playing tractor.  They dont know any better) 

 

Spend hundreds of dollars on a fancy new kit or spend 10 big ones on a set of points once in a blue moon.? 

 

I'm happy for you guys that love the new ignitions and I hope they work amazing for you but for this guy I'll stick to my points till I'm a frail old man.  

 

Chris

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9 hours ago, farmallman77 said:

And yeah you wont do it blah blah.  Have kids. First thing they do playing tractor.  They dont know any better) 

 

X2. My niece did that to my H this past summer. Her mom didn't know any better and didn't notice what she had done  A few days later i go up to the H to use it to go rake hay. Battery dead as a corpse with the ignition switch pulled out. Got the battery charger on it, charged the battery and it took right off. No point change required.

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11 hours ago, Farmall Doctor said:

What are you talking of "better wires". Hopefully that doesn't mean high resistance automotive wires. I make my own custom wires that are solid core. They all measure the same... Zero ohms resistance. 

Where have you been?  About time to fire up the oil debate isn't it?????😁😁😁

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With pertronix you are suppose to use suppression/carbon core wires, at least that's what the guy from pertronix told me years ago. I have a roll of solid wire and a roll of suppression and all the ends to make the wires how I like since some people like points and some like pertronix

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3 hours ago, Mighty1206 said:

With pertronix you are suppose to use suppression/carbon core wires, at least that's what the guy from pertronix told me years ago. I have a roll of solid wire and a roll of suppression and all the ends to make the wires how I like since some people like points and some like pertronix

   I wonder why that would be....  The ignition unit is only controlling the coil.. off and on. High voltage never gets back to the unit.

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2 hours ago, Farmall Doctor said:

   I wonder why that would be....  The ignition unit is only controlling the coil.. off and on. High voltage never gets back to the unit.

Here are some articles to explain what could happen

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Interesting, yet I have been running solid core wires on my '79 Chevy with HEI for years without any problem... I have had less problems since making my own wires. My old school Chevy mechanic buddy said "well, if they don't mess up your radio, then yea, best way to go"!

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