drglinski

Official front end repair thread

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Hello all.

This is going to be the thread where I post all the progress, work, thoughts and questions regarding the front end/steering repair on my 147. My goal is to get the machine working 100% or as close to 100% as I can mechanically before I cosmetically restore it. 

I asked for $$ for my birthday in october so I can work on the steering/front end etc but don't want to dig into it too much as it is my snow removal machine; I'll really tear into it this spring or summer. However, I figured I could do wheel bearings fairly easy. 

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New sealed bearings 
 
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Packing the new ones
 
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I did find that there is play where the spindle meets the axle, as well as between the bearing and the spindle. Not a lot, but enough to be annoying. Can that be shimmed up somehow? What can a backyard mechanic do to eliminate the slop? 
 
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Lots of old crud in the space between the wheels
 
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Including old bearings and balls
 
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New ones installed. 
 
Any thoughts on shimming the spindle in the axle/wheel on the spindle?
Thanks

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8 hours ago, drglinski said:

Any thoughts on shimming the spindle in the axle/wheel on the spindle?
Thanks

Nah, you don't need to Daniel.  Just put it back together.  Good work! 

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I like to shim my front wheels-bearings. My local Ace hardware has a good selection of shims. I usually use .030 and .060 thick shims. Another place to purchase is McMaster-Carr. I nave had some bearing-rim issues that lead to a destroyed rim. 

Link to .062 thick shim on McMaster-Carr: 

https://www.mcmaster.com/3088a469

Link to .031 thick shim on McMaster-Carr: 

https://www.mcmaster.com/3088a434

 

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I guess once the spindle gets worn there isn't anything you can do to get rid of slop except put on loader spindles.

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3 hours ago, lightninboy said:

I guess once the spindle gets worn there isn't anything you can do to get rid of slop except put on loader spindles.

Replace the spindles with new.  They're still available.

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you have manual lift on your 147???? I thought they had electric lift....

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18 hours ago, mrfred54 said:

you have manual lift on your 147???? I thought they had electric lift....

They did, but when the e-lift quits you can put a manual lift on them. 

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On 1/14/2019 at 7:50 AM, J-Mech said:

They did, but when the e-lift quits you can put a manual lift on them. 

Most likely that’s what a PO did (bought it that way.). I have mixed feelings on converting it back again 

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If you convert it to anything else go hyd.

E-lifts are not known for being the most reliable things in the world. 

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On 1/23/2019 at 8:46 PM, Mr. Plow said:

If you convert it to anything else go hyd.

E-lifts are not known for being the most reliable things in the world. 

Steve - I went to an auction back around 1980 that had a 147 and a 104 I think it was. 147 had the electric lift on it yet, but the box of spare parts that went with it had THREE  old actuators in it.  Auction was on Kennedy Drive in East Moline about a mile from our house.  The early actuators were not reliable.

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Not much in the way of any progress since my garage isn’t heated and it’s been -40 out (plus I use it for snow removal) but today I pulled the center cap on the steering wheel and sprayed the nut/shaft with some penetrating oil so it can start soaking.  If I want to get the wheel off in the spring once it does warm up I figured I should start now and soak it about once a week. 

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Acquiring of new parts continues. Knowing I'd need a different steering wheel (as the hub of the one installed is destroyed) I had a bit of a difficult time trying to find another one. I would have bought new, but new doesn't exist. I found one with a good hub, and good chrome on the splines, but at one point around the circumference it looked like a dog chewed it. I think someone had mounted one of those useless spinner knobs on it at one point angry.gif so now I'm looking at finding a way to smooth it out or fill it in. (any suggestions?)

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The seller also had the grille screen insert that my 147 was lacking that he threw in for a package deal. The screen that was in it when I bought it was simple and sturdy, but to the correct police (me) it was wrong. It's white- pretty sure it should be cadmium plated/colored- but that's just aesthetic. I also got the springs that hold it in.

 

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Use the 5/8" bolt,  nut,  knees, and hammer trick for steering wheel removal. 

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Good news! I’ve been soaking the steering wheel nut and shaft in rust penetrant long enough that when I was driving it today it felt loose, I backed the nut off and the wheel lifted right off! 👍🏻 I’m not ready to work on it yet so I put the old wheel back on, but I’m happy it came off so easily! 

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