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Good morning. I am just joining your community having heard of and scanning the forum for several years. Not really wanting to join up to have a single problem addressed but rather hopefully finding like minded individuals. The screen name originates back from high school days when after a long night of welding on a bulldozer frame and being dirty upon showing up for class, someone commented I looked as if I'd slept under a bridge to which another said I was a "Troll". The name stuck and I've carried it well over 40 years now. 

I have a couple of IH trucks of which one, (1965 R-190) I've had since 1985. The RD-450 engine runs well. It's pretty rough, but used as a yard crane. Wasn't too bad till 2005 when an outrigger sunk and the truck rolled over..... The other truck is a 1979 F-4270 which I'm resuscitating/regurgitating from long dead. I'm planning to put this truck back to work hauling grain around the Peoria, IL area. This one is not in too awful bad of condition with a 6V-92TA Detroit Diesel and nine speed Fuller transmission. It was my uncles truck and has been sitting in a field since the mid 1980's. I have been after it all last week and is running pretty good.

I do have a question maybe one of you folks can help with. I'm needing a line set ticket for this 1979 truck. It was loaded with rodent infestation and the decal which was affixed to the dash pad rear side has been eaten away. The International dealer cannot pull up the serial number of the truck in their database and I'm wondering if there is any other way to go about this? I'd like to know what this truck was built with as I've known it since new and it's all original other than maintenance items. S/N is: D2127JGB31149

Thanks a bunch!

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Can't help with the build sheet but I think they were built in Chatam (sp) Ontario.

Worked for a foundry in the early seventies that had a small fleet of these with 903 Cummins and ten speed RR. Pull the top off a mountain at 3MPG. Nice driving and riding truck.

Good luck with the refurb.

Dennis

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9 hours ago, jingles1928 said:

Can't help with the build sheet but I think they were built in Chatam (sp) Ontario.

Dennis

Transtars were built in Fort Wayne, indicated by the G in the middle of the VIN, until Fort Wayne was closed in 82, then they moved to Chatham, ON.  WHS should have the lineset, charge is $20 I think.

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Thanks guys. My uncle has a copy of what I was looking for along with a complete folder including maintenance and such performed in the life of this truck. I didn't realize this information existed until this evening when giving  a progress update. He is going to drop the folder in the mail tomorrow morning.

Got a bit of pressure washing done today as it was nice. Regardless after 2.5 hours in the driveway with a washer and being soaked, I was getting a bit chilled but I can now tell it has a red engine and a lot less grease holding things together.

I slowed the engine idle down to 500rpm from 750rpm and it's a big difference. Tomorrow I'll remove  the alternator, (not charging) for rebuild and exhaust pipes feeding the turbocharger to remove the rocker covers as has a dead cylinder. I want to compression check the engine prior to installing a fresh set of reman injectors purchased earlier and running the rack. The engine runs well but is missing, or weak on one cylinder.

Found a broken clamp which holds the turbine side and  center section together after clean up also. I'll pick one of these up tomorrow.

Thanks,

 

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Found an injector stuck down this afternoon on cylinder 1R. Unable to free it up while installed, I removed it. First photo is my finger showing the gap from the stuck unit injector:

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Was able to free it up playing a propane torch along it's length. I've had good luck in the past with this time being no exception. After working it several times while submerged in my solvent tank, I reassembled everything:

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After running the valves and injector timing, I reinstalled the rocker cover and exhaust. The engine started right up and after burning the soot from that cylinder, it runs very smooth. I need to finish a good tuning to the engine next.

A little progress every day will get the job done as they say.....

Thanks,

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36 minutes ago, Troll said:

Was able to free it up playing a propane torch along it's length.

Good idea , I will stick that tidbit in my memory bank 😀

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25 minutes ago, Kevingweq said:

Good idea , I will stick that tidbit in my memory bank 😀

Yes. Do not pound on the fuel rack as it's easy to shear the locator pin which keeps everything aligned. There is nothing to melt inside the mechanical injectors but you don't want to get them really hot and change any dimensions. Usually play just under the spring to about an inch above the spray tip.

Long time Detroit man showed my that trick almost 40 years ago.

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Wasn't going to post this but it is IH related so what the ****.....

The fuel in the tanks is vintage 1985 when the truck was parked. I brought it back to the shop courtesy of a friends Landoll 317 trailer.

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Sounds pretty good Troll...  

Always enjoy seeing these older trucks and other equipment running well and still being used ... as I’m sure everyone on this  Forum does..

They are pretty easy to work on .. I have some of those “treasures” still regularly earning their keep on my small farm .. 

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I plan to use this one around my place. I have several old trucks but most are Mack as that's the brand I grew up around and know best. I have both B, and R series. These all have Mack engines except one R model which has a Caterpillar 1693TA engine. My old IH R-190 I converted to a yard crane back in 89 and it's been used for just about everything I've needed including hoisting the steel beams for the shop seen in the video. Wish I still had photos of that but before digital cameras were the norm. Rough old truck but sure runs well.

Was able to get some electrical working in the cab yesterday. Mice had encapsulated the fuse and circuit breaker panels and the corrosive effects have taken their toll. I'll have to replace the fuse block; the circuit breakers panel seems to have cleaned up acceptably well. I now have turn signals, dash lamps, and headlamps. Had to install a new socket for a semi trailer electrical cord to plug into on the cab back too but it all works as it should again. Will need to pull the air compressor from the engine as it is knocking or ticking very loudly. Could be the drive splines, or piston slap but it is not normal. Couldn't hear this until the interior was gutted and the "doghouse" panel removed as the compressor is at the upper rear of the engine. 

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Started truck this evening with outdoor temperature 38 degrees and zero pressure in tanks. Compressor is rattling and increasing in amplitude, (louder) as the pressure increases. After allowing the engine to run for fifteen minutes, shutting it down, depleting the air from the system, then restarting the engine, the compressor is noticeably louder when warm than cold. Really loud when warm and up to pressure. Probably going to pull it tomorrow and evaluate sending it in for rebuild as don't need problems in the future.

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Pulled the air compressor back and the drive splines are fine. The problem seems to be in the valves or unloaders as they're called. I'm attaching a short video but until the air pressure reaches about 35psi in the system, the compressor is quiet. At 35 psi it is audible but not yet obnoxious. At 40 psi it can easily be heard. The video starts at 90 psi and it runs through a cycling of the governor at 120psi. It is 2:01 minutes in length:

Given my shop cost is less than $250.00 for a Bendix reman unit, I'm not going to work with this one; just replace it as it's been setting a long time and I don't need problems once placed back into service.

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Replaced that broken turbocharger clamp this afternoon and engine runs the same but revs up quite a bit different. Must have been losing a bit of exhaust pressure and heat though the gaping flange. Little bit of slobber in the parting surfaces, but was readily drawn back together with the new clamp. Need to latch a trailer on and get some heat in the exhaust to clean the engine up internally.

May have a set of Jacob's Engine brake solenoids coming available to me. Buddy is checking on them and should have an answer later in the week. Never had an engine with an exhaust brake, so this would be interesting.

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.......     "Troll"  does this Mack   ...which would have been 38 yrs old ....qualify as an antique  ?...or are the "R"   models   still a bit new ?

........Brought this new late 1980.......had several   Macks........had incredible   service life from them....especially the one  I  drove.......

.......now, here in NZ...they are like rocking   horse excrement...found one, but the rust and associated  repair work...body and mechanical....to much  dollars   involved

,,Enjoy your posts !!

Mike

post-157-1224057393.jpg

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HI Mike, anything over 25 model years old is an antique in Illinois, (USA) and several of my trucks have antique registration on them. I have four R-700 series which are lightweight trucks with aluminum frames, wheel end hubs, and many suspension parts, a 1980 R-612, (much like your photo but Budd hubs on the steer axle) and three B-61 series trucks. My "welding wagon" is a 1957 Mack B-61T which I'm currently redoing into a more usable platform. After several years of using this truck I found the frame cracked in a couple of places so elected to replace it from the cab back and install an air ride suspension:

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Everything was sandblasted clean and anything that with wear was replaced/rebuilt to new. Frame rails were custom formed from a vendor whom does that service:

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Suspension started from this chopped up Peterbilt. I used the rear rear under my truck:

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Now back to finish is someday.....

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The last truck "R" series truck was produced about 1990 so yes, it qualifies as an "antique" here although there are many of them still working.

I'm going to get this IH back operational to use locally as a lot of parts for the now "antique" Mack engines are still available with a few days/weeks lead time. Can't really have that with a working truck. The Detroit Diesel parts can still be had overnight. Long term goal is I "may" install this 6V-92TA engine into a 1958 B-61 chassis as it appears it will fit and not have to modify the sheet metal of the truck. This truck is in pretty fair condition only used during the summer months in a previous life.

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Finally found an oil leak I've been chasing for a spell. I have this older Mack engine from a former military truck which was given to me when the truck was repowered to Cummins during restoration. I've had this engine running on a stand and have been chasing this leak but being behind the cartridge filters I assumed it was a sealing ring compromised. Today I removed both filters to get to the bottom finding this:

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No idea how that crack originated and no real nevermind as I have a spin on filter setup from another Mack engine to replace the cartridge type complete. Just need to boil it clean in the solvent tank as it's from a dirt working truck and very grungy.

This engine is slated for my 58 B-61ST to replace the original 170hp engine. The engine is turbocharged and 225hp, but very well "may" go a bit more if I get to playing with it. It does have piston cooling jets so could take the heat if the piston wrist pins are large enough. It is originally from a Mack built M54A3 series 5 ton truck which was assembled in 1969.

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It's too bad your so far away. I have a lot of spare Transtar F4370 parts you could use.

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I actually travel to Macungie, PA, Lititz, PA and on to Hamden CT. nearly every year for truck shows and visits along the way. Bushkill doesn't look too far out of the way.

Any way you could send some photos of parts not needed? I'm going to be in the market for a bolt together type radiator core for sure as this one is weak.

Thanks,

 

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5 hours ago, Troll said:

I actually travel to Macungie, PA, Lititz, PA and on to Hamden CT. nearly every year for truck shows and visits along the way. Bushkill doesn't look too far out of the way.

Any way you could send some photos of parts not needed? I'm going to be in the market for a bolt together type radiator core for sure as this one is weak.

Thanks,

 

Oh ok. I'm not sure if I have a radiator . I have a bunch of cosmetic stuff like interior parts, IH air horn, an extra set of 44,000lb rear cut offs with 52" IH/Hendrickson walking beam, a 12,000lb front axle and springs, a fuel tank and quite a few other odds and ends

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My interior is kind of rough and both windshields need replaced. I don't have a passenger seat but the HVAC unit is there to mount one to. Fuel tanks are dent free but two straps are shot with one broken, (rust). Hood and brightwork is all good condition as truck was kept up till it was parked. Mice have had a heyday in it however. Don't know if you have an interior floor mat and my shifter is about six inches back from the doghouse panel. A 4300 was 10" longer from bumper to cab back than a 4200 so you may not have the same doghouse depending upon the engine. I assume yours was Detroit Diesel powered also? Usually the "70" series was a Detroit Diesel, but could be a variant to which one.

I always liked those trucks when they were common and there is still one around here working. It is Cummins powered so don't know the series other than "F-43XX".

Thanks,

 

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1 hour ago, Troll said:

My interior is kind of rough and both windshields need replaced. I don't have a passenger seat but the HVAC unit is there to mount one to. Fuel tanks are dent free but two straps are shot with one broken, (rust). Hood and brightwork is all good condition as truck was kept up till it was parked. Mice have had a heyday in it however. Don't know if you have an interior floor mat and my shifter is about six inches back from the doghouse panel. A 4300 was 10" longer from bumper to cab back than a 4200 so you may not have the same doghouse depending upon the engine. I assume yours was Detroit Diesel powered also? Usually the "70" series was a Detroit Diesel, but could be a variant to which one.

I always liked those trucks when they were common and there is still one around here working. It is Cummins powered so don't know the series other than "F-43XX".

Thanks,

 

I have a lot of interior parts, I believe some tank straps and insulation, steps, grab rails, roof marker lights/lenses, a cab visor, mirror parts, shift knobs and a lot of other parts. Mine had a Cummins Big Cam 350 with a 13 speed  Eaton Fuller RTO. Quite some time ago I actually bought out a truck shop (minus the building) of all parts and tools, so I have lots of stuff for all different makes and models of pickups, semi/dump trucks and machines

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I'll compile a list and photos of things I'd like to replace on this truck. I have a farmer customer from when I was in the auto body business whom would like me to haul grain for him sporadically and I may use this tractor for the power unit. It is lightweight having IH corporate rear suspension, (4 spring) on Rockwell rears, (spokes) and a 12K steer on Budd type hubs. A small nine speed RTF-9509,  (direct) Fuller behind the 335hp 6V-92TA engine rounds it out. Should be a good local truck as it was used to pull a medium JD excavator for years. Pretty flat ground around these parts. I don't know the rear ratio but it has a good low range so probably 4.11 or lower.

The clearance lamps and lenses are there but pretty corroded up from exposure. If not really expensive I'll probably replace them. They do work but the chrome is pitted and lenses are cloudy. The aluminum parts are nice but the die casting items are all pretty rough. I still have to go over the truck as I've not lifted the truck yet so don't know the condition of anything in the front, rear, or brakes other than I had to sawzall the slack adjusters on the spring brakes as they wouldn't release and couldn't be backed off. I actually had to remove the backing plates and beat the shoes loose from the drums to get it to roll. I've replaced too many drivelines to rely upon engine power to force them loose.....

Overall the truck is pretty straight never being banged up and only used locally. I'd like to clean up and paint it using an American LaFrance fire engine red paint. I had three rollback trucks that color and really liked it so planing to stay with the color.

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On 12/26/2018 at 1:11 AM, mike_newman said:

.......     "Troll"  does this Mack   ...which would have been 38 yrs old ....qualify as an antique  ?...or are the "R"   models   still a bit new ?

........Brought this new late 1980.......had several   Macks........had incredible   service life from them....especially the one  I  drove.......

.......now, here in NZ...they are like rocking   horse excrement...found one, but the rust and associated  repair work...body and mechanical....to much  dollars   involved

,,Enjoy your posts !!

Mike

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This is my 1980 R model. It is an R-612 and still has it's original 300+ Mack engine and Fuller RTO-12513 trans which is shot, (very noisy in low range). I've used it a lot over the years but getting ready to break it apart as it's really worn. Not so much with rust but just a lot of wear.

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Trailer is not mine but the 1964 B-61ST is my "Yard Dog" which is being broken down for parts into another B-61 project truck. Rust is putting this one down as it's bad underneath.

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"Troll"   (!!)......the picture I sent you   of the , then, new Mack.....it was a 612 model....   320 HP.....slightly different   for Australia and New Zealand...Right hand drive..of course (!!)...twin headlights and a few other little things to dress the old trucks up a bit.....had an 18  speed Mack box.....Didn't bother with the  ESI   pack ....had them on two slightly earlier trucks....Their reliability was legendary......I put hour meters in every Mack I had......one did 12000hrs then required  a turbo.....then went on to 21000 hrs before needing engine work....this was on logging roads  ....I had extensive contracts for many years..

Mike

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