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Missouri Mule

2000 Chevy battery dying

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I have an old 2000 chevy 3500 service truck I use around the farm. If it sits for more than a week or 2 the battery is deader than a hammer. I haven’t tried to look into it at all yet. Anyone have any similar experience 

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Either the battery is junk or something is drawing it down.  I would guess a small draw down somewhere?

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My 2004 Dodge truck kills the battery in a few days sitting. The shop guy asked if both tail lights work? Well, one didn't and I told him so. That's the problem. Tail light out trips a little relay that senses an imbalance in the electrical potential of the wiring system, and it draws enough power to drain the battery in a few days. Not saying that is your problem, but it shows how different modern systems are.

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1 hour ago, Missouri Mule said:

I have an old 2000 chevy 3500 service truck I use around the farm. If it sits for more than a week or 2 the battery is deader than a hammer. I haven’t tried to look into it at all yet. Anyone have any similar experience 

Had the same problem with the '04 HD2500 we use as a service truck. Couldn't find a draw so put a new battery in it. So far so good, got my fingers crossed.

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1 hour ago, hobbyfarm said:

Either the battery is junk or something is drawing it down.  I would guess a small draw down somewhere?

I would say that both are playing a part.

Anything new enough to have a computer, (about 87--ish on), is going to have a constant draw for computer memory if nothing else. Combined with a tired battery, and colder temps,  and you are walking.

I'm getting my 01 2500 HD a new battery tomorrow too.

Mike

 

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This ain't the time of year to try and get the last bit of goody out of a battery. Batteries aren't cheap but neither is "click, click" when you gotta be somewhere. I assume you'll clean the posts and terminals first but don't forget to run the length of the cables to feel for swelling which means corrosion.

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4 minutes ago, sandhiller said:

This ain't the time of year to try and get the last bit of goody out of a battery. Batteries aren't cheap but neither is "click, click" when you gotta be somewhere.

Agreed.

 

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Not sure if the 2000 had the issues but the '04's has dash issues that would drain the battery sometimes. Cousin who is an auto mechanic said they run into it often. They send them out for reconditioning

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Easiest first, test battery - make sure it is fully charged, unhook cables and see if it still goes down while sitting.

 How old is the battery? Maybe just time to change it as maintenance.

If battery is ok, unhook negative cable and hook a meter in circuit - cable to post. Check for amperage, if there is, start removing fuses until the draw goes away. 

 

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10 hours ago, Missouri Mule said:

I have an old 2000 chevy 3500 service truck I use around the farm. If it sits for more than a week or 2 the battery is deader than a hammer. I haven’t tried to look into it at all yet. Anyone have any similar experience 

Yup🤬

1993 Chevrolet pickup. Did it since new, never did figure it out. Probably because it sat more than it was driven. 

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1 hour ago, Ihfan4life said:

Yup🤬

1993 Chevrolet pickup. Did it since new, never did figure it out. Probably because it sat more than it was driven. 

My 93 has a drain through the hvac. I put a the hvac on a toggle switch and have had no problems since. I plan to put it on a relay so I don't have to flip the switch every time I drive. 

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If you checked out the basics. I would look at anything after market if you got it radio,lights, cb etc seen that stuff draw down batteries more than once

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Test battery ,check Alturnator, diode my drain it

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89,95,98,04 Chevrolets here.  They will all drain battery due to computer.  95 Silverado is worst, followed by 04 Suburban.  89 Silverado hardly at all and it is the one that does the most sitting.  79 GMC never gives a problem, but most drivers nowadays can't find the dimmer switch.😀

Ron

  • Haha 1

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Thanks guys. I left it kind of vague to see if anyone has had the issue instead of planting the issue first. This is more than just the computer because in 1 week it won’t even click. Deader than a hammer. I suspect alternator like 560Dennis suggested. I will charge up the battery  do an amp draw to see what’s up. I should of mentioned I do know the battery is good and connections are good. I can jump it and use it for all weekend with no trouble. Park it and come back 10 days later, nothing....  First thing I have to do is check all my meters to see if any of them have dc amps. I can’t remember. I’ll bet I have at least 10 fluke meters. 77’s, 87’s t51000’s and even a megger multimeter. But I don’t think any of them have dc Amps. Mine are all geared towards a/c not automotive. 

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Check the radio I’ve had several of that body style that the factory radio would drain the battery

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On 11/10/2018 at 5:45 PM, Missouri Mule said:

.  First thing I have to do is check all my meters to see if any of them have dc amps.

Just use a test light between disconnected post and cable , remove alternator wires or fuses as cattech suggested

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you can also use multi meter set to dc volts between negative battery terminal and negative cable after it's  unhooked as previously described. the higher the volts the higher the draw. note approximately 4 volts is to be considered normal on '89 and newer vehicles up to about '14 haven't checked anything newer good luck russ  

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7 hours ago, 4x4ford said:

Check the radio I’ve had several of that body style that the factory radio would drain the battery

It has an aftermarket one. Pioneer I think. Could still be that though. I’ve read of oem radios that the clock stayed illuminated causing that. 

 

Yah there’s a few different ways to check the draw. Truthfully the BEST way is the way I described. Anything over 50ma is excessive. But if a person doesn’t have the correct meter as I mentioned I may not then yes.  I need to look through meters. I have forgotten how many I have. My dad was an electrician as well and grandparents on both sides and uncles and  a cousin or two. So meters are fairly abundant around this joint. The ones I use frequently do not have dc Amps but maybe I’ll just buy a new one. 🤷‍♂️

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Little story, kind of related just not on a Chevy... The power of an ink pen.

I had a radio that wouldn't turn off with the ignition key in a loader. It would drain the batteries over a few days. The customer had replaced the radio, the power inverter, the main power relay. Just about anything you could relate to the circuit had been checked. I could measure just a few milivolts on the key power wire to the radio. Come to find out, the radio uses the B+ wire to run everything and the key wire is like turning on a light switch. Where is this phantom mV voltage coming from.....? I began tracing the wire back from the radio, this is no small feat as the harness is buried behind panels and compartments. As I try to take apart a connector under a storage box I notice my fingers have become stained black. What is this...? There is no oil or grease in these parts. I peer into the storage box and find a ball point pen with its tip leaking into the corner of the box that just happens to contain a drain hole. The ink was dripping directly on the harness, running down and contaminating a connector. The ink inside was enough to short the B+ and key power wires and flip the internal "switch" in the radio. So as a cause of failure, I had to list a black Bic ink pen.

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3 hours ago, Cattech said:

Little story, kind of related just not on a Chevy... The power of an ink pen.

I had a radio that wouldn't turn off with the ignition key in a loader. It would drain the batteries over a few days. The customer had replaced the radio, the power inverter, the main power relay. Just about anything you could relate to the circuit had been checked. I could measure just a few milivolts on the key power wire to the radio. Come to find out, the radio uses the B+ wire to run everything and the key wire is like turning on a light switch. Where is this phantom mV voltage coming from.....? I began tracing the wire back from the radio, this is no small feat as the harness is buried behind panels and compartments. As I try to take apart a connector under a storage box I notice my fingers have become stained black. What is this...? There is no oil or grease in these parts. I peer into the storage box and find a ball point pen with its tip leaking into the corner of the box that just happens to contain a drain hole. The ink was dripping directly on the harness, running down and contaminating a connector. The ink inside was enough to short the B+ and key power wires and flip the internal "switch" in the radio. So as a cause of failure, I had to list a black Bic ink pen.

Wow. I would of traded rigs before i found that. That is a weird deal. 

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On 11/10/2018 at 5:45 PM, Missouri Mule said:

Thanks guys. I left it kind of vague to see if anyone has had the issue instead of planting the issue first. This is more than just the computer because in 1 week it won’t even click. Deader than a hammer. I suspect alternator like 560Dennis suggested. I will charge up the battery  do an amp draw to see what’s up. I should of mentioned I do know the battery is good and connections are good. I can jump it and use it for all weekend with no trouble. Park it and come back 10 days later, nothing....  First thing I have to do is check all my meters to see if any of them have dc amps. I can’t remember. I’ll bet I have at least 10 fluke meters. 77’s, 87’s t51000’s and even a megger multimeter. But I don’t think any of them have dc Amps. Mine are all geared towards a/c not automotive. 

a fluke 87 will test for milli amps,  also to do a proper test you should use a test cable

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