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Buying an IH with TA out - Different Question


leeave96

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We have some hills we go up and down and with our haying would be bringing loaded kicker hay wagons off these hills.  Safety is most important.

To what extent can a worn TA - NOT hold back the tractor when being pushed by a load such as a loaded hay wagon?  Not talking about shifting mid stream from hi to low - pick the gear and TA range and motor down the hill.  Will it hold or is there potential for slippage and/or free wheeling?

With respect to the above, there are 66 and 86 tractors out there for sale where the seller mentions either the TA is out or slipping - and the price is lower accordingly.

Question is - for our hills, is it better to take the “deal”, pour the $$$ saved into a new clutch/TA and while you’ve got the tractor split, fix/refresh/adjust whatever else might be revealed with a tractor split.  Once back together, have full confidence the tractor is good to go, including bringing wagons down the hills.

Thanks!

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I would say never use low side of ta to hold a load back going down a hill. Dont think they were meant for that. Dont recall any body ever saying that high side slipped going down a hill. I could be wrong but dont recall it. Also if it slippes in high side your pump or mcv has a problem and i think your gonna have problems going UP the hill as well.  Been putting off replacing a ta in an 826 for more years than i should admitt and not been a problem yet on hills. 

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2 hours ago, leeave96 said:

We have some hills we go up and down and with our haying would be bringing loaded kicker hay wagons off these hills.  Safety is most important.

To what extent can a worn TA - NOT hold back the tractor when being pushed by a load such as a loaded hay wagon?  Not talking about shifting mid stream from hi to low - pick the gear and TA range and motor down the hill.  Will it hold or is there potential for slippage and/or free wheeling?

With respect to the above, there are 66 and 86 tractors out there for sale where the seller mentions either the TA is out or slipping - and the price is lower accordingly.

Question is - for our hills, is it better to take the “deal”, pour the $$$ saved into a new clutch/TA and while you’ve got the tractor split, fix/refresh/adjust whatever else might be revealed with a tractor split.  Once back together, have full confidence the tractor is good to go, including bringing wagons down the hills.

Thanks!

We have had this happen on one tractor. A 1566 that holds in high but slips in low. Going up hills with a load of hay about 25,000 lbs. it will suddenly quit moving as it just looses ta pump pressure sometimes. I am guessing it is dumping it out in worn out ta. But when it dumps pressure you loose everything steering , brakes  and control. Have gone down hill backwards 2 times with it. The 1566s brakes are different so they won’t  work with trapped oil as well as the smaller tractors. We don’t use tractor at all anymore it sets. Shame it is a low hour tractor but belongs to parents estate so it just sits. Dad has a 966 that low has been out in TA and it never let’s go. But just for sake of your safety if you buy one with ta out fix it or put a shaft in if pulling heavy loads. Just for equal opportunity bashing a jd 30 series and up will go downhill backwards also if you kill engine loose clutch pressure and don’t hold brakes to get it into park.

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They don’t have as many clutch discs in t/a as they do in direct so it’s not going to hold as much back. I have slipped mine with a 9k lb Baler behind me on a steep hill before. The key is don’t do it. Use direct drive (t/a forward-high) whatever you want to call it. When a seller says it slips they more than likely mean slips under a pull. On a 86 series the t/a is quite a bit more envolved than just a split for the clutch. To do this job safely and right requires a stand for the trans housing, one for rear end housing, one for front end, and stabilizers for the cab. Yes you can do it with blocks and 4x4’s etc. but I just want you to know that it’s a job to do. 

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Lowball the dealer on a distressed tractor and get it as cheap as you can. Then take it to a good reputation shop and install the good Hy Capacity T/A and an new HD clutch that they supply. That is your best plan and probably cheapest and safest in the long run.

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Agree with above. The t/a in my 966 is weak. If I see a hill coming I make sure I'm in direct/high and it has never slipped on me.

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a related question from the other side of the equation:  if you're going to be selling a 1086 with a TA that slips under heavy load but is otherwise a really good tractor, are you going to be re paid for putting a TA in or should you just sell as is?

 

 

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3 hours ago, dale560 said:

We have had this happen on one tractor. A 1566 that holds in high but slips in low. Going up hills with a load of hay about 25,000 lbs. it will suddenly quit moving as it just looses ta pump pressure sometimes. I am guessing it is dumping it out in worn out ta. But when it dumps pressure you loose everything steering , brakes  and control. Have gone down hill backwards 2 times with it. The 1566s brakes are different so they won’t  work with trapped oil as well as the smaller tractors. We don’t use tractor at all anymore it sets. Shame it is a low hour tractor but belongs to parents estate so it just sits. Dad has a 966 that low has been out in TA and it never let’s go. But just for sake of your safety if you buy one with ta out fix it or put a shaft in if pulling heavy loads. Just for equal opportunity bashing a jd 30 series and up will go downhill backwards also if you kill engine loose clutch pressure and don’t hold brakes to get it into park.

Still waiting to write the check..................sigh..............LOL

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6 minutes ago, TP from Central PA said:

Still waiting to write the check..................sigh..............LOL

I will put a picture up here dad won’t sell. He has a one foot on the banana peel but still holding fast.

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47 minutes ago, TP from Central PA said:

Still waiting to write the check..................sigh..............LOL

That would be quite the trucking bill if you didn't haul it yourself.

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50 minutes ago, TP from Central PA said:

Still waiting to write the check..................sigh..............LOL

Here is pic of the old girl. Hasn’t been started in 2 years hasn’t been used in about 9. It is going to be put in shed in a week or 2 with bad roof but don’t worry we put John Deere’s under the collapsing part. Dad is 78 , Parkinson’s taking over. Sisters are mad man hating liberals. Machinery and land is in trust. Dad gets real irate about selling anything. When I say irate it is steam coming out ears and hind end. My solution as trustee put it all away until he passes. Then let the fight begin. This is honest 2 owner before dad tight and low hours. Needs brake work and probably sleeve orings from sitting new Firestone’s with under 200 hours on inside

07342A11-4C48-43CF-8ADE-EFD3B1BF640C.jpeg

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1 hour ago, 234-IA said:

a related question from the other side of the equation:  if you're going to be selling a 1086 with a TA that slips under heavy load but is otherwise a really good tractor, are you going to be re paid for putting a TA in or should you just sell as is?

 

 

 

1 hour ago, 234-IA said:

a related question from the other side of the equation:  if you're going to be selling a 1086 with a TA that slips under heavy load but is otherwise a really good tractor, are you going to be re paid for putting a TA in or should you just sell as is?

 

 

I think every IHC tractor sold here in North Dakota is with TA slipping. They did have a 1086 on Deere lot that was sold with working ta this spring. It just came from the caseih shop and got traded with a fresh 11400 repair bill for ta and clutch. In real world about 6000 should get it done.

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The problem with large frame hydraulic TAs is, if one side is out, the other side is not far behind. I'm not sure I'd trust a tractor with the TA out on the low side to not be on the verge of failure on the high side as well, and you know that it's going to happen at the worst possible time.

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1 hour ago, Matt Kirsch said:

The problem with large frame hydraulic TAs is, if one side is out, the other side is not far behind.

Lol. No

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5 hours ago, 234-IA said:

a related question from the other side of the equation:  if you're going to be selling a 1086 with a TA that slips under heavy load but is otherwise a really good tractor, are you going to be re paid for putting a TA in or should you just sell as is?

 

 

For those with so many variables like clutch and MCV pump etc it is likely you will get more out of it selling it in the distressed state than submitting it for a T/A replacement and any other parts that need replacement at the same time prior to selling it. The exception is if you have a shed queen that looks like a million dollars other than needing a T/A. And I have seen one or two of this type where the owner made money on the T/A replacement job.

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I sure would love to park that here.........

Zachgrant.......you buy a whole trailer load at a time, it isn't too bad!  LOL. With the price of similar equipment here that is worn out, trucking good stuff back east isn't as as expensive as you think.  

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11 minutes ago, TP from Central PA said:

I sure would love to park that here.........

Zachgrant.......you buy a whole trailer load at a time, it isn't too bad!  LOL. With the price of similar equipment here that is worn out, trucking good stuff back east isn't as as expensive as you think.  

Got a whole trailer load of ih . When we sell it I will let you guys know

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40 minutes ago, dale560 said:

Got a whole trailer load of ih . When we sell it I will let you guys know

Not necessarily all IH, But I learned to fill the trailer when it's out there with something.  I just always wanted a white panel 1566.

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16 hours ago, ZachGrant said:

Lol. No

Lol. Yes. I've never seen one go for very long after the low side starts showing signs of problems, before the tractor won't move at all. That's how every TA on the farm has failed. Stops moving on the low side, and a week later, stops moving period.

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39 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Lol. Yes. I've never seen one go for very long after the low side starts showing signs of problems, before the tractor won't move at all. That's how every TA on the farm has failed. Stops moving on the low side, and a week later, stops moving period.

I can show you over a dozen around me that the low side has been out for over ten years and it still running 

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I have 2 tractors with bad TA's and one has affected the high side and the other hasn't. 756 loader tractor had low side go bad and about a year later the high side started acting up. When warm and if you steer the wheels to the stop it totally stops moving. The warmer the worse it gets. 806 had the low side start slipping maybe 10 years ago and still hasn't affected direct drive. I guess it all depends if the seal rings and bushing on the input shaft of the TA got damaged. 

Really need to fix them both but still my mom's tractors technically after dad passed away. I can use them but need to maintain them, but something that major I'd just as soon own them first. 

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On 10/3/2018 at 10:28 AM, dale560 said:

Here is pic of the old girl. Hasn’t been started in 2 years hasn’t been used in about 9. It is going to be put in shed in a week or 2 with bad roof but don’t worry we put John Deere’s under the collapsing part. Dad is 78 , Parkinson’s taking over. Sisters are mad man hating liberals. Machinery and land is in trust. Dad gets real irate about selling anything. When I say irate it is steam coming out ears and hind end. My solution as trustee put it all away until he passes. Then let the fight begin. This is honest 2 owner before dad tight and low hours. Needs brake work and probably sleeve orings from sitting new Firestone’s with under 200 hours on inside

07342A11-4C48-43CF-8ADE-EFD3B1BF640C.jpeg

My 1466 had the same exact tanks on it. I bought that out of Mandan ND. Must be a local manufacturer there? 1733536378_1466fueltank(Large).thumb.jpg.aa7442274645803fc631117e06ec0514.jpg

Does it have this drawbar too? 

167962985_1466drawbar005.thumb.jpg.1e6880c9c525d259ca1626799ded6773.jpg

161114_007.thumb.jpg.6847fc6312b0959c6da099b41cd83eb7.jpg

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3 minutes ago, FarmerFixEmUp said:

My 1466 had the same exact tanks on it. I bought that out of Mandan ND. Must be a local manufacturer there? 1733536378_1466fueltank(Large).thumb.jpg.aa7442274645803fc631117e06ec0514.jpg

Does it have this drawbar too? 

167962985_1466drawbar005.thumb.jpg.1e6880c9c525d259ca1626799ded6773.jpg

161114_007.thumb.jpg.6847fc6312b0959c6da099b41cd83eb7.jpg

Yes those tanks were made somewhere here in the state. Dad has a few sets of them laying around here yes it has the swinging drawbar we only have a  1206 and 856 with row crop draw bar and 3 pt. The other 6 have swinging drawbar

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33 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Wow. Those tanks would hold all the fuel that gets burned in the 1066 in a year these days.

 

True but they used to get a day and half on those tanks. We take them off now we don’t use those tractors for much anymore.

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