Oil Seeping from the head. Rebuilt motor on an H

[fbh31118]

Ok, i'm guessing that the nuts for the head studs are backing off for some reason and I torqued both before and after a good heating cycle using a torque wrench.  Not sure why that might be though.........  Maybe I should clean all of the hardware and loc tite, or maybe there were washers under the nuts originally( have to check the parts book when I get back there)?  Thoughts?

[mmi]

there can be various reasons  from dirt ,cheap/damaged gasket ,head/block not true,lack of coating or silver paint on gasket, stud holes not completely clean,studs loose (sounds like those were not out so a little tough to at least  surface sand the block) cheap torque wrench,

following not MFG sequence  of 3 steps then 1-2 repeats over short time, dirt in stud /nut thread ,oil first/or dry to torque if called for,

improper use of click wrench,but if consistent normally yields over torque 

 

I would drain water remove cover and inspect then 

A check torque of the ones near leak

b if found <5lb under...gasket head /block issue

c  10>lb   loosen ALL and start over per sequence...repeat as prescribed

d  no resolution disassemble and correct 

I have had several that  weep assume damaged /old gasket so....  every 200 hours 2 years or x  relax and retorque   as they are used  < 150H yr

https://www.messicks.com/cas/59088

shows 3 washers required

[Missouri Mule]

First of all is it water or oil? Second if you just put this thing together and it’s not mixing fluids or fluid is running out the side go run the pee out if it. Getting it good and warm usually helps things out. If your convinced it’s oil then the head probably needs to come back off. If it were me I’d be using a gasket sealer with your gasket and check your edges with a good Straight edge. I had the machine shop do it for me because my straight edges are limited. 

[fbh31118]

To be clear, this is oil on the mag side of the block.  The head is an NOS that had never been on any thing other than a shelf and even included a paper production tag to boot.  Also had the head hot tanked prior and checked prior to using as 'you just never know'.  Every thing was fresh from the machine shop and all of the hardware was either new or crystal clean.  I oiled the threads prior to a three step torque procedure using a common pattern for installing heads so I know that it at least hit the torque value.  Never heard of using a gasket sealer on a head gasket.....not sure on that one.   Any way, at the very least I'm going to take the tappets out and 'recheck' the torque to see if there has been any backing off.  If so, I will continue with my questions until I reach a satisfactory resolution.  Here are a few pictures of when I put it together, maybe this will help.

Thank you for your thought so far! 

[gordon76]

sealer is a must have on metal head gaskets ether copper coat or aluminum paint

[mmi]

dont be too upset this is a very common problem

see you did have the studs out  dont recall exact model but there were several TSB for the cleaning and reinstall,basically bottom tap super clean, lube if stated, install with correct tool to spec,sealer on any into water.

IIRC your  leak is near the port to oil rockers (only area of pressurized oil).....dirt ...slight imperfection in gasket/block/head, that is why others and again certain TSB recommend certain sealers or simply X silver spray paint.

for reference see if those 4 nuts are lose  then remove to inspect adjust for trueness  others have used  this as preventative/cure

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-indian-head-gasket-shellac-compound/

but if not careful  if/when head removal AGain  it may split the plates