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RedTail966

966 running hot when bush hogging

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Dad bought a new 966 in '73.  It always ran hot if you pulled it hard for very long.  Didn't have to be lugged down to get hot either.  Was not a good tractor as it also used 2qts of oil per day no matter how you used it.  Went down the road for a 4440.

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1 hour ago, farmerole said:

Dad bought a new 966 in '73.  It always ran hot if you pulled it hard for very long.  Didn't have to be lugged down to get hot either.  Was not a good tractor as it also used 2qts of oil per day no matter how you used it.  Went down the road for a 4440.

The 2 qts of oil was pretty common back then. When I was young in the 80s you checked oil level every morning on every piece of equipment. Now you really don’t check every morning. The oil back then must have been more prone to burn off. It was nothing for international or JD engines to burn 2 or 3 quarts a day of amoco 30 wt. the 966 has small fan and single belt probably which lead to more heating problems.

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36 minutes ago, dale560 said:

The 2 qts of oil was pretty common back then. When I was young in the 80s you checked oil level every morning on every piece of equipment. Now you really don’t check every morning. The oil back then must have been more prone to burn off. It was nothing for international or JD engines to burn 2 or 3 quarts a day of amoco 30 wt. the 966 has small fan and single belt probably which lead to more heating problems.

The 74 1066 i got new would use 1 quart to a gallon per day. Depending how you used it. In 78 or 79 it developed a knock and we had it overhauled. It needed new bearings and the crank polished. They put in a new assembly and it used very little oil then. Then in 88 it needed overhauled again but it had been the dryland farming tractor and should have been larger from the start. I traded it off then.

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16 hours ago, dale560 said:

See my pic I posted that 1066 was exact what yours did. Clean the radiator make sure your fan turns its simple. You can’t get them clean in tractor they need to be washed out both ways and flush through inside of rad

Thx, yeah the radiator is clean. I had it out of the tractor. Washed it with a hose myself and used a radiator flush. then when I dropped it off at the radiator shop to test the flow they pressure washed it, did a flush on the inside, tested for flow and leaks and then painted it. I can see light through it everywhere.

when it’s hot I can feel the temp difference with my hand between the top of the radiator and the bottom.

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33 minutes ago, RedTail966 said:

Thx, yeah the radiator is clean. I had it out of the tractor. Washed it with a hose myself and used a radiator flush. then when I dropped it off at the radiator shop to test the flow they pressure washed it, did a flush on the inside, tested for flow and leaks and then painted it. I can see light through it everywhere.

when it’s hot I can feel the temp difference with my hand between the top of the radiator and the bottom.

Now the next thing to do is make sure your water is flowing. Have seen the water pump impeller not turn. A small leak in head gasket will push the water out as  they heat. What you describe is water not making it through to cool.. can’t stress this enough before you do anything make sure your radiator flows water through it. And air over the core. You would never think they can plug as bad to make them do exactly what you describe. There has to be  coolant in system and it has to flow through radiator. pretty simple setup

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3 hours ago, dale560 said:

........ the 966 has small fan and single belt probably which lead to more heating problems.

It's only a single belt pulley if it didn't originally come with an A/C compressor.

I've never had a problem with the 4-blade fan on any 966 I've been around.

Travis

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1 hour ago, dale560 said:

Now the next thing to do is make sure your water is flowing. Have seen the water pump impeller not turn. A small leak in head gasket will push the water out as  they heat. What you describe is water not making it through to cool.. can’t stress this enough before you do anything make sure your radiator flows water through it. And air over the core. You would never think they can plug as bad to make them do exactly what you describe. There has to be  coolant in system and it has to flow through radiator. pretty simple setup

Not sure what you mean about not seeing the water pump turn. It turns all the time just the same as everything else.

i guess the radiator shop could have gotten it wrong about it having good flow.

When I open the radiator cap and look at the water it looks like a river in flood when the thermostat is open. Seems like it’s flowing pretty good.

It does push water out  the overflow every time it heats up. But I have been in and out of the cooling system several times, and each time I top off the fluid. And I know that these tractors usually run with about a gallon of head space, so I was thinking that it’s just getting back to that normal level.

 

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9 minutes ago, RedTail966 said:

Not sure what you mean about not seeing the water pump turn. It turns all the time just the same as everything else.

i guess the radiator shop could have gotten it wrong about it having good flow.

When I open the radiator cap and look at the water it looks like a river in flood when the thermostat is open. Seems like it’s flowing pretty good.

It does push water out  the overflow every time it heats up. But I have been in and out of the cooling system several times, and each time I top off the fluid. And I know that these tractors usually run with about a gallon of head space, so I was thinking that it’s just getting back to that normal level.

 

The impeller comes loose sometimes or rusts off. Not often but have seen it more than once usually a automotive application but could be a problem. If you take your thermostat out put housing back on. Fill block with water to top of outlet take fan belts loose so pump can’t turn it will blow water out right away in air bubbles if head is leaking. Have seen about anything in my short life. Once on a rebuilt 5.7 Diesel owner complained of heating problem. Took it back to gm dealer where engine came from and it turned out they had a glow plug controller put in on vacation. It is aluminum and pipe thread would twist off easily. The shop that put controller in just knocked broken part into engine. It essentially became a aluminum plug floating right behind water pump. It would float up under high speed plug pump inlet in block and float back when engine was off. So there is usually something blocking flow on heating troubles. The gm dealer found it doing thermostat test for leaky gasket or head. The slow heat up is so typical of no flow through radiator.

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46 minutes ago, RedTail966 said:

any suggestions on where to get a coolant filter kit for a 966?

 any boneyard will have one. JP salvage. 573 783 7055. Ask for John. He will ship anywhere. 

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7 hours ago, stronger800 said:

I got the parts from our dealer few years ago, wasn't really expensive. 

I think the part number is 121897C92. The price from CIH is $360

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My 966 never gets above 200° or so when pulling a 20ft bushhog. Gotta be careful with the throttle though, too much and you're running 26-30 psi of boost and 1400° EGT haha 

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My thought is the intravance in the pump may not be advancing the timing properly. It seems odd it would heat up so fast with so little load, yet cool down once that load is taken away. 

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