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8 hours ago, Pbach said:

I am afraid if I had a truck and trailer like yours I would have several more projects haha - that is quite the collection. This might be a dumb question but how did you get those crawlers on/off your trailer? (Unless they could be driven?). My Crawler is also a farm cat (I even found a 70 year old corn stalk in the belly shield when I took it off) it has relatively low hours and undercarriage in above average condition. Still searching for a blade - several jobs are waiting on it out at our farm... Glad my posts/pics helped you!

Hi Pete - BTW I was really impressed with the electrolysis results you achieved.  I've been thinking about doing it for derusting some of the miscellaneous parts I'm working with, and your pics convinced me.   I have a plastic stock tank I'm going to set up.  I have a 4 cylinder inboard engine out of a boat that's all rusted shut so am going to try dipping the whole shooting match in there to see how effectively it works.  Lots of other applications for electrolysis around here too.  Too much old equipment, trucks, and boats.

As far as loading and unloading...  Thankfully I was able to drive the Drott machine onto the trailer.  It weighs around 13,500# per the book so I have no other method of effectively moving it around.  The other two machines were loaded by the guy I got them from.  He used a large mini-ex (oxymoron, I know) to load both of them.  When I got the Olivers I used 12k# winches and snatch blocks.   Unloading the 2 TD-6s was interesting.  I ended up burying my trailer up to the axles in mud in my woods.  Had to roll the farm cat off with help from my 48HP Kubota.  The dozer machine was a real bear.  I couldn't lift the tongue of the trailer with my tractor so who knows how much tongue weight I really had.  I finally got it blocked up and winched out into a place where I could hook back up with the truck and move the trailer to where I wanted to unload the dozer.  

I just replaced the right front idler on the farm cat.  The former owner had used those castings as chain down points and had broken idler castings on both machines.  Thankfully the guy I got them from had found the idlers already and gave them to me with the machines.  

Fun to find old stuff in these machines and think back to what the world looked like back then...not nearly as crazy as it is today.

Brad

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Yes I do usually need some brakes to turn. Brought out all the 1950s era machines today   

Pete,  You are the man! Hey my guess is your going to get a pm from someone on that front hook! Someone on here needs one for their restoration!:) The muffler looks great! How did you c

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2 hours ago, north of 60 said:

I have the manually adjustable Holt blade just like yours on my TD9...it is actually quite easy to adjust when you need to... I use it a lot year round... very handy to have on the farm ..

Very cool!  Thanks for mentioning that.  I've looked all over for info on that Holt dozer attachment but nothing that I could find.  They do look simple and yet very stout.  I was also wondering looking at mine if it's meant to be able to rotate around the long axis of the dozer a little bit.  See the attached picture where the blade attaches to the frame.  That axial pin mount should allow for a up/down pivot.  Doesn't seem  to be a way to control the amount of pivot though and so it would float and be limited by the flexibility in the frame linkage.  Any insight into that from yours?  It would seem that it would be pretty easy to convert one of these to all hydraulic control with a bit of axial pivot ability so you could lower one edge of the blade.  Almost a 6-way albeit probably limited a bit in range on that pivot point.

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  • 1 month later...

It's been a while.. 

Been busy with work and traveling ect. but gettin back to the fun stuff.

So I had to replace the bendix gear on my starter for the second time... I went to start it a while ago and there was a horrible grinding noise and then when I stopped cranking the motor, the bendix gear shot back and got stuck. When I took the starter apart, the gear had wedged itself onto the smooth portion of the shaft. Replacing the bendix was not a big deal. However, what concerns me is my ring gear. Recently I have been starting the crawler with the crank or using the crank to rotate 90 degrees and then starting it via the starter (That way the bendix engages a good section of the ring gear). This only works if I decide to never put a hydraulic pump on the front. It might be time to rotate the ring gear 90 deg, flip the gear, or replace entirely. All three options require pulling the engine unfortunately... (don't want to do any grinding on the casting). Might be time for an engine hoist as well. haha

Anyway, been painting a few odds and ends on the crawler like the side shield and louvers. Replaced spark plugs which we covered in carbon and seems to start easier. 

Here's a cool picture of an old crawler/dozer used on the beaches of Normandy that I took on vacation. Its sitting on a section of the Mulberry Harbour that was used to transport troops/supplies.

PS. Big surprise coming soon..

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I would be willing to check out that PTO for you! Make sure it is in good shape and limbered up a bit!!!!!!😊

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Nice collection. Interesting that you posted a picture of a post hole digger driven off the PTO. I have an antique Grosshart/Prewitt post hole digger but have no idea where it was bought/ what tractor it was on, etc, etc. It has always just been collecting dust in the garage at our farm. Interesting enough, I found an old picture online that says the post hole digger is compatible with the TD6! Could my great grandpa have intended to use it on the old td6? Maybe some day I can get it hooked up and running, or possibly restored. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Pete,

 This would be a great project to go with the TD6! And was in the family too.

Trying to get caught up with your work!

Can you please take a couple pictures of the rear light on your TD6? I still have that to do on mine and would like to get it in the correct location and mounting bracket.

Glad you have another machine now too. But what is Hank going to play with in the sand box?? :) 

Regards,

 Chris

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Pete,

 Thanks for the pictures of the rear light!  I have to see if I have one of those bottom brackets? I don't have fenders like you do. Since I have this ATECO loader frame. But there is a area there but its above where your fenders are.

Still should work.

 Regards,

 Chris

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  • 5 months later...
On 9/10/2018 at 8:29 AM, Rawleigh99 said:

Kudos on the creative use of the floor jack!!  Looks good.

Thinking out of the box, are you sure that your only 22. You listened to grandpa talk and explain. Way to go Russ.

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24 now haha thank you though. Need to get some more time to work on the toys!

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On 4/17/2019 at 10:14 PM, north of 60 said:

Great news !  TD6 runs well... they are so much fun to drive !! 

I found this in my repair manual.... if this is the starter you have in the picture, there is some adjustment that can be made to obtain the specified clearance between the pinion face and the inside nose of the drive housing (23/64” with a 1/32” tolerance either way)..

Only sending this in the event you may need it down the road.. sounds like you have it fixed..

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North of 60. Can you list the part number or printing of your service manual. I have a 43 and 53 TD-6. One electric Bendix and one mechanical drive,

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/3/2018 at 9:06 PM, Pbach said:

Chris, No kids/wife yet so might as well get this done while I have some time on my hands haha 

hank, yes that is the timing for the magneto. It’s located on the crankshaft pully at the front of the machine. If you look closely, there is a DC and M marked on the pully, I had to use a wire brush and clean mine off in order to see the markings. There are other posts that go into further detail but I will give you the short rundown from what I understand. DC is short for top dead center and M is for magneto. There should be an audible clicking from the magneto when the TDC is reached. Crank slowly with the hand crank to find it. Ideally it should be right in between the M and DC (someone correct me if I am wrong) since you want the firing right after the tdc is reached to prevent backfires. When that clicking sound is heard, the rotor should be either pointing at the #1 or #3 spark plug. This is the problem I ran into and had to pull the rotor and gear and rotate 180 degrees. As long as you take it off and put it on the same way you shouldn’t run into any problems.

6/11 metal plates cleaned so far

Chris, I would love to restore this machine, but don’t have any experience doing that so just taking one step at a time. I’ve seen your posts on your partially restored td and it looks great!

What kind of paint/hardner/primer did you use. Did you sand blast or just use electrolysis? Maybe I’ll start with the grill like you did as it’s easy to get to. If you have any tips let me know.

Do the metal plates look good enough to reuse? They feel pretty smooth 

Pete

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When I restored my steering clutches on my T6, I made certain to remove the scale from the disk and they looked like yours do. I did clean the fiber disk too but take great percaution with reguard to Abestos exposure, I did it outside with a resperator and atempted to stay up wind. After many years the cleaned old parts still work great, but I make sure to move the tractor every few months to ensure they dont freeze up again.

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Wondering about information on holt dozers they also make winches seen lots of them on AC,Cat and JD crawlers but few on IH Not sure that cat did not buy up Holt IH used B-E (logging heavier made) and the lighter BE 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Nice sunny day today so took a break from quarantine to start prepping for engine pull. Ring gear is in BAD shape and needs replacing. Hope everyone is doing well. 
 

Pete

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Pete,

Can you get the new ring gear? Probably the easiest part of the whole job is actualling replacing the ring gear, getting to that point , not so much! Keep us up to date. I have a WD45 shift tower project and will start cutting wood soon for next years syrup.

Regards,

 Chris

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Chris, 

Yes I have a new ring gear, I purchased two from fpsmith I believe back when I did the other crawler. Lots of work to get there and then takes less than an hour to actually hammer off the old and replace with the new haha had another nice sunny day so made some progress. 

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Pete,

Good progress, lots of wrench turning there! 

Thanks for the update and sharing the pictures too.

Any other things to do while your in there?

Are the blocks under it solid? Just want you to be safe.

Regards,

Chris

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Nope nothing else to do in there but that’s a good point cause my bottom leaf spring broke on my other crawler and I didn’t notice until I put the engine back in.. that’s gonna be an interesting project trying to find one of those.

Used the grill to heat up the ring this time, 450F for 20 minutes and the ring slid right on.

Got this one started up on gas today. Few more pics, hope I’m not posting too many. 
Was nice to see the rear seal does not leak, unlike the dozer.

Pete

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Pete,

 Your making good progress! I like the idea of the gas grill!

Thanks for the update! Nice when they will start!

I need to get my TD6 home.

 Regards,

 Chris

 

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