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Pete,

 Your doing good! I like the E tank process, guess cause I am cheap and lazy. Seems to fit both areas! Your parts look good after electrolysis and then in primer! Keep after the old machine. 

Good pictures and documentation. 

Regards,

 Chris

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Pete,

Making any progress?

Regards,

 Chris

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Hi Chris,

I don't know if I would call it forward progress since I have decided to tear into it some more. The thermostat housing turned out so nice that I have decided to paint the whole front of the machine while the coolant is drained. I have been taking piece by piece off the rad - some rusty bolts gave me some trouble. I plan on painting the hood, fenders, diesel tank, as well as anything that is easily taken off. When do I stop?? Need to purchase a sand blaster I think and a larger container for electrolysis. Picked up some IH red from menards that I really like. 

P.S. Santa was good this year.

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Pete,

Oh my! You have it bad! I hope you have read some of the great restoration threads on here too. Your doing what I should have done on mine when I was into it. That is have the radiator cleaned! I wish you the best. I am not going to tel you when to stop. Looking real good on the thermostat housing. Yea refufb, clean and paint (RCP) can take over your life for a while if your not careful. I just completed several weeks of work on off color tractor parts which I hope to finish coat this spring. Tools are always good!:)

That E tank along with a sandblaster will be your friend cleaning up parts too! One of those 275 gallon cage tanks with the top cut out would make a nice big E tank!

Regards,

 Chris

 

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On 12/4/2018 at 11:50 AM, Pbach said:

Old stat

IHC 37634-D

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Older stat 😀    1930 T20 4 cyl gas thermo and housing

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On 1/4/2019 at 6:22 PM, Kevingweq said:

Older stat 😀    1930 T20 4 cyl gas thermo and housing

568638468_t20rebuild002(765x1280).thumb.jpg.9b48b34d78979ba54f35e6fd2ad0a78a.jpg993663978_thermoclutch(9).thumb.jpg.c30120b9cdc3dcd3516b067796f39281.jpg1011435782_T20t-stat.thumb.jpg.02eb212587138a3b9db1b49b6e7f1592.jpg

Wow wonder where you get a replacement for that

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Some more pictures. Anyone know how to fix the rusted out portion of the adjustable fins? Easy to change the oil now

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Pete,

 You are the man!

Hey my guess is your going to get a pm from someone on that front hook! Someone on here needs one for their restoration!:)

The muffler looks great! How did you clean and what paint did you use? I have a IH muffler on mine too.

I see the rusted out are on the bottom of what I believe is the shutter system. I have not seen a shutter system up close. I would look at replacing that entire bottom piece with a new one. If you cant do it I am sure a local fab shop could make a new one? Unless I am missing something?

Wow sure would be nice to be able to service my TD6 from the front end like that! More clean up and paint for you!

 Good luck! Keep us posted!

Regards,

 Chris

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Hey everyone,

Spring is close! Gradually cleaning and painting parts. When it gets warmer I’ll get the e tank back up and running to clean the top and bottom castings of the rad. Then everything can start to go back together. Had my uncle help with a brazing job on one of the rad castings and turned out nice.

Chris I used the e tank to clean the muffler - just used some high temp paint as a first coat and then some silver paint I found but will have to see how it holds up to the heat.

Thinking about taking the crawler to work (CNH) for the car/tractor show this summer. I think it might interest a lot of people.

Regards,

Peter

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Does temperature matter to the electrolysis or is that for your comfort?

 

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43 minutes ago, nomorejohndeere said:

Does temperature matter to the electrolysis or is that for your comfort?

 

I’ve noticed that it works much better in warmer weather, also more comfortable to work on. 

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Pete,

 You have the 6 moving under its own power?? It sure looks good back together! You have been busy!

Regards,

 Chris

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Yep, moving under its own power. Temp Gage got up to just below run on high idle so the thermostat seems to be working - the whole reason I took everything apart in the first place haha.

Have a new wiring harness and seat on order. Need to get the hood, louvers and grill/emblem cleaned up and painted still. I did some house keeping work like changing the engine oil and injection pump oil, cleaning the water trap, and flushing the diesel system of air. There's a small leak in the bottom corner of my radiator - sometimes it leaks, sometimes it doesn't. I am going to pour some stop leak into the rad to see if it plugs it. Also, the glass is cracked on one of my headlights unfortunately - does anyone know where to get a replacement?

 

Peter

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There are differing opinions on the use of “stop leak” additives, and whether or not they can be harmful to the engine ... I’ve used them, but you might want to read some of the posts on the internet just to be aware of why some do not recommend using them...

Is there a combo number/letter on your glass lens, eg: 2B1 or something similar... I found some online for the original TD9 lights.. pretty sure you will find they are available online and/or at your local parts store..

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Thanks for the advice, I managed to fix the leak by soldering the outside of the radiator. Now I ran into another problem. Recently the starter has not been engaging the ring gear every time and makes a horrible grinding noise. I pulled the main clutch inspection cover and can see that the Bendix pinion gear is worn. I just pulled the starter to take a closer look and the gear is pretty smashed up. The ring gear doesn’t look that bad, maybe I can just clean it up with a file through the hole where the starter goes. I am looking to replace the pinion gear but am having difficulty sourcing one. It is a 12 tooth. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Peter

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I had the same issues with mine.  Mine actually got so bad, a brand new bendex would not engage.   That part of the reason I am pulling the motor. I hope to pop off the flywheel gear, and install a new one, or flip it.   I had my starter rebuilt by a local guy who rebuilds electronics.   I would assume anyone who does this can source a bendex gear.   I hope you don’t have the same issue as I had, and don’t have to pull the flywheel ring gear.   Good luck

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Good that you were able to repair the radiator in place with the soldering ... a fair bit of work if you would have had to remove  the radiator..

Hard for me to tell from the picture  how the ring gear actually looks.. 

If you have a local implement salvage place, they will likely have a good selection of decent used bendix gears... I know my local salvage place has a big box full of them, and they will let you browse through it to look for exactly what you need.. 

I was able to find a new one a couple years ago for my TD9 starter, I will find the paper work and let you know where it came from ..

 

 

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Pete,

I had several starter events on my TD6. Sounds typical for these old units. They have started many times and get worn. I believe the engagement can be adjusted by a jam nut on a thread? Wait I think you have a different starter than I have. Now I will need to go back and look through my pictures. I Believe mine has a adjustment for the throw of the pinion gear. It is also the adjustment as to when the contacts mate.

What I did right or wrong on a tractor of a different color which had similar issues was to improve the engagement and remove all the burrs from the ring gear and the starter gear. Small dremmel tool and a lot of patience moving the engine one tooth at a time with a pry bar and getting in there and cleaning up the teeth. Then I took the starter apart and relocated washers and shims to allow the starter gear to move towards the ring gear by maybe another 1/8 inch or more. That tractor is still working good!

I have a handle on the right side of the cockpit that your supposed to pull to engage the starter gear and at the same time make contact for power at the switch on top of the starter. When I got it it was not working. I now have it working but only with a added (chrome) power handle added. Very odd arangement. I have lubed and adjusted and just never could get the leverage to start the tractor with just the handle. Maybe others will comment? The linkage to get all the way to the starter just seems too long and or weak? 

Found a couple of my current original starter pictures: So mine is not a typical spring loaded bendix. You manually engage and disengage the starter gear on this unit. I believe this is original. Doesn't mean yours wont work. I did not have any luck finding replacement starters for these old girls either.

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So not sure but my guess is that your new style starter may not have had the correct throw to get in deep and engage the flywheel? Therefore the nashing of teeth?? Just a guess. 

Regards,

 Chris

 

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Thanks everyone for the good info. I did find a bendix assembly on ebay for the td6/td9/wd9 which I have on order. Chris, yes my starter might be a slightly newer model - 1950 I believe is the year the crawler was built and I'm guessing this is the original starter. It is manually operated by a lever on the left side of the operators compartment. I am going to try and clean up each tooth as best as I can on the ring gear and hope the new bendix gear solves the problem - don't really want to pull the engine or cut notches in the clutch compartment. Last thing I want is to ruin the new bendix gear by having a bad ring gear though.

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I can’t make out all the numbers on your starter... my manual shows that your TD6 should have originally had a Delco Remy 1108925 (bendix drive), or 1108940 (manual overrunning clutch) starter .. 

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I was typing my post and didn't see your latest... glad you found the part... and yes, the TD6 and TD9 had the same starter....

The  starter # changed when the TD6(61) and TD9(91) series came out in 1956....

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The delco remy tag says 779 9961 in the picture. I'd have to look if there are any other numbers on it.

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There may be another number stamped into the nose flange for that specific part... not sure about the main body.... 

The Delco Remy site shows no results for that number on your tag...  some rebuilders may have put on a new tag on with different numbers that meant something to them ... 

I guess you will know when your new part arrives whether or not it will work for you .. 

I agree with Chris, it appears the bendix gear was not meshing properly at all with the ring gear, thus the wear on the very ends of teeth...

One thing you could do is measure the distance from where the starter bolts on over to the back edge of the ring gear..  then measure the distance from the flange of the starter to the end of the bendix gear when it is as far forward as it can possibly go in the starter nose... this should tell you whether the bendix gear is moving forward enough to properly mesh with the ring gear...

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