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Pete,

 Wow! You did a great job getting the TD6 clutches out, repaired and back in place! These generally have to have the brakes applied to turn on level ground. As I learned from on here you can turn on a hump much easier. 

I like your "press" under the draw bar!

She sure looks good in the yard! I think it looks fine without the blade too! It has street pads so take it in some parades! They are cute little machines without the blades!

Regards,

 Chris

 

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Yes I do usually need some brakes to turn. Brought out all the 1950s era machines today   

Pete,  You are the man! Hey my guess is your going to get a pm from someone on that front hook! Someone on here needs one for their restoration!:) The muffler looks great! How did you c

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I love it! Beautiful job on everything!  Great pictures too! I'll be studying them again before I tackle my steering brake on my TD-91. 

I just hope whoever owns that nice house doesn't get mad at you for tearing up the yard! lol

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Thanks everyone. Its my grandmas yard, don't worry she's just glad its not yard art anymore haha. Will be taking it to our farm near Galena, IL area as it has no use in the suburbs of Chicago anymore.

Things to do still:

Attach side walls and fenders

Find new seat

Attach battery holder under seat (does anyone have info on this?? I only have one picture and it is very confusing how it attached to the frame/seat. Any pictures of it on a crawler would be awesome.)

Attach rear headlight and wires

Mount hydraulic tank under seat area (Has anyone seen or heard of this? wondering if it might be custom?)

Attach side panels on hood. Another lucky find in the ol shed.

Change engine oil and lube everything

Paint (If I can get access to a sandblaster eventually)

 

 

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On ‎9‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 3:21 PM, Pbach said:

Thanks everyone. Its my grandmas yard, don't worry she's just glad its not yard art anymore haha. Will be taking it to our farm near Galena, IL area as it has no use in the suburbs of Chicago anymore.

Things to do still:

Attach side walls and fenders

Find new seat

Attach battery holder under seat (does anyone have info on this?? I only have one picture and it is very confusing how it attached to the frame/seat. Any pictures of it on a crawler would be awesome.)

Attach rear headlight and wires

Mount hydraulic tank under seat area (Has anyone seen or heard of this? wondering if it might be custom?)

Attach side panels on hood. Another lucky find in the ol shed.

Change engine oil and lube everything

Paint (If I can get access to a sandblaster eventually)

 

 

I bought a sand blasting attachment at northern tool for my pressure washer makes the job a 2 man job as someone has to man the hose in the bag of sand but it works for cheep russ 

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10 hours ago, hank1010 said:

in order to get your clutch out, did you have to remove the bar that holds the throwout bearing

Yes, for the main clutch that bar needs to be hammered out of the side. Need to remove fork, clutch lever, and 3 keys.

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thanks pbach.  if you havent seen my other threads...i am having a difficult time with my dozer.  if i cannot get it to turn over, i will be parting it out.  I have a a blade/cylinders, controls, and front mount pump you may be interested in

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3 hours ago, hank1010 said:

thanks pbach.  if you havent seen my other threads...i am having a difficult time with my dozer.  if i cannot get it to turn over, i will be parting it out.  I have a a blade/cylinders, controls, and front mount pump you may be interested in

I will check out your threads to see if I can be of any help. I would be very interested in those parts if you decide to part it out but I do hope you can get her running.

 

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  • 2 months later...

Quick Update, I will post pictures separately.

Managed to move the crawler to the shed for the winter, one day before a blizzard.

One thing I always noticed when running the crawler was that it never got up to temp - or even moved the dial from the low end of cold. First I took off the gage and tested it by placing the sensor in boiling water - it worked. So I figured the thermostat must be stuck "always open", allowing the coolant to flow into the rad. Sure enough, I took off the housing and the thermostat coil was broken off completely. Ordered a new one from Steiner (IHS913).

Currently cleaning parts up using my electrolysis tank. I took one piece out after 24 hrs and looked good but wasn't quite done. Ill let it sit for another 24. Looks like it takes the remaining red paint right off the castings which is nice. Should be ready for priming and painting without too much additional work. Went to NAPA to get new hoses but they didn't have the odd ball sizes (see sugarmakers post on his thermostat). Ordered from McMaster carr.

Was looking at the manual for the cooling system and found a couple interesting things. First I read about removing the plug in the stat housing when filling the system with coolant to avoid any air bubbles in the system AKA a belch of coolant when the stat opens. Second, there are two drains for the system, one for the rad and one for the crankcase.

Also, when looking at the flow diagram it looks like the original stat allowed for coolant to flow through the by-pass system (avoiding the rad). I'm not sure if the new stat operates the same but I have read that it works. KoO also uses them so they must. It also must be installed the opposite direction than what the arrow says on the stat. 

 

 

 

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Also thinking about getting this paint bundle for $99. Would I need a paint sprayer? They really get you with $40 dollar shipping though!DD552345-ED4B-4154-A6E6-1E2961AF6BB9.thumb.png.9f58bbc7c9082fd0fcfb9498d19b6b47.png

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Almost forgot this one. Still looking for a blade. Thinking about making one if I can’t find one for sale. 

298819E4-1B6F-43D8-A7FF-822FB1ED00C1.jpeg

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Catharsis a nice little home for that machine!  Keepin it out of the weather is the best thing to do for that ol girl!  I’ve been workin 7 days the last few weeks to continue with my project.  It’s also sitting under roof.  If I decide to part mine out, I have a blade, cylinders, valves, and pump I’d part with.  If you can wait till spring, we can talk...I’m about 2 hr from you

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Pete,

Sounds like you need to buy Hanks machine!:) Question: the last picture of the thermostat housing parts, have those been through the electrolysis process? Mine are usually just about bare metal with black soot on the surface after that length of time? Your bucket look like its set up ok. Are you using washing soda in the water too?Getting good bubbles off the part being cleaned? Maybe you didnt post pictures when parts are coming out. I would expect one part to be pretty much done in 8 hrs.

On paint I just use rustoleum primer and then rustoleum sunrise red for top coat. Might be cheaper for just small parts.

Humm Your Stat looks correct I just fumbled around and never found it at Stieners??

You making good progress! Nice that you have it inside too! Thanks for the pictures and updates too.

Off to work on venison processing. I will check on you later.

Regards,

 Chris

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Need to get my venison processed also. Yes, using washing soda and getting good bubbles. The last picture is pre-electrolysis. Parts might be taking longer due to the cold temps - less sodium carbonate can dissolve in the water at lower temperatures. Ill attach the pictures of the other cleaned and primed part. If you just search for 160 stats on steiners it should pop up I would think - Ill post the picture of the old part number which led me to this new stat.

Anyone ever reverse the polarity on the electrolysis tank and put a sacrificial piece of metal in to clean off the electrodes? Would need to make sure my alligator clip is not submerged or it would get pretty rusted I assume.

Still rootin for you Hank, good Luck!

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