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Missouri Mule

T/a question 756

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I haven’t got to put too many hours on this 756 but got to use it enough. One thing I have a question is the t/a. When shifting to low from direct it has a small hesitation. My others shift the instant you pull the handle. This one seems to take a full second or so after lever is back to go. It will not slip even riding the brakes and seems to go in direct quickly. I am wondering if this is indicative of wear? It seems to work perfect otherwise. One thing I will add, is it does NOT have Hytran. It has new hyguard when I bought it and filter. I have 3 new buckets of Hytran ready to go before I tore the engine down. So my first thought was get the correct oil in and see what it does but I didn’t get the chance. I will also add the first thing i did was adjust the clutch, dump valve and trans brake when I got it home and no change. It’s all apart now and if i knew it was weak I would just put one in it. I wish I had a little more time to use it first. 

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The most common reason for this is wear in the high side clutch pack. As the disks wear the piston has to travel farther to lock up the clutch. It takes a bit longer for the additional fluid to fill the clutch assembly causing the delay.

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Not sure why it would act that way going into LOW because that is a mechanical lockup. Normally a worn ta will hesitate going into HIGH for the reason that Owen stated. 

Could it be that it is not dumping the pressure on the high side quick enough so that the mechanical sprag on the low side can’t engage?

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The more I think about it the more I am leaning towards it being in the high side. I was sure it was low, but now I think Owen is right. If it were running I would go varify! 

2 hours ago, Owen Aaland said:

The most common reason for this is wear in the high side clutch pack. As the disks wear the piston has to travel farther to lock up the clutch. It takes a bit longer for the additional fluid to fill the clutch assembly causing the delay.

Owen, do you think one in this condition will hold up a while yet or is it a goner? Thanks

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Most just run the tractor until it won't move anymore, then fix the TA. As long as it will go and pull and do what you want, continue using it. You can't ruin it any more than it already is so you may as well get your money's worth out of it.

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If pulling the lever into the low side, and not working the tractor, the tractor has to slow down to the speed of the low side.

It seems like a hesitation but the tractor speed just has to slow to the speed set by the low side of the TA.

You should be able to get on the brakes hard in direct and shift to low and the only change will be the engine RPM increases.

That should happen almost immediately.

It sounds like you have a good working TA.

 

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That is riding the brake some. I have 3 good working t/a’s and understand exactly what your saying. This one has a hesitation, it’s just been a while since I used it to remember which way it was doing it. Thanks 

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9 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Most just run the tractor until it won't move anymore, then fix the TA. As long as it will go and pull and do what you want, continue using it. You can't ruin it any more than it already is so you may as well get your money's worth out of it.

Yah I get that but it’s split right now at the clutch. I’m over 1/2 way. That’s why I am asking others opinions if I should just do it now or see if it holds up a while. Splitting a 756 is a whole lot easier than cab tractor but my luck it will shoot craps in 6 months. It seems to not slip at all. You can stand on the brakes and kill the engine in a tall gear. What’s another 1200 right? Lol

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Haha that money’s not going to spend itself. I like what your saying, I know if it was mine 6 mos down the road the ta would shell out and I would be banging my head off the wall

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Exactly..... I am waiting to see what my engine is going to cost and go from there. I got lucky and cam bearings were perfect so I just am waiting on the machinist to check my head and polish out the crank. He does it so cheap it’s not worth messing with. I had a couple journals that had a blemish so he said he would make them perfect.  My head only has 800hrs since it was worked last so hopefully nothing much needed there. Knock on wood I may get by cheaper than expected. 

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That’s always a good thing. There are a lot of guys I know who would drain the antifreeze out the bottom of the oil pan every day and go to work. ... then complain that it’s junk when it spins a bearing 

Glad to see you’re doing it right

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Years ago you could buy every seal and piece separate and only replace what was needed.

I am not sure what you have to buy today to get the parts you need.

Getting ahead of the break down is a great idea and can be cheaper in the long run.

New seals and clutches in the TA would be a very good idea along with a new sprag. 

Look the rest over and replace anything that shows wear. 

I would tear into it if you plan on keeping the tractor. Will be money and time well spent.

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