Jump to content

Update on Farmall Cub Project


Recommended Posts

It’s been a while since I posted on General IH about starting into this project- been busy since then but now  have had some time to work on the tractor. Basically, we’ve split the front end and clean different parts. 801B6BCC-7CFD-445F-8EFD-1DC39980976B.thumb.jpeg.068e58d35adc306de6da5eba8ebd389c.jpegDad drilled two holes in these pieces of metal and mounted them on the cultivator mounts. 32D1D6BA-FD5E-4089-AB30-94F9AF2D0632.thumb.jpeg.8adcee2c8ea68314f106b1dac646a5c5.jpegWe ended up having to use a torch to take the front pully  off A02AF3CC-AE5D-4C06-9E56-53B46FA27CCF.thumb.jpeg.5e39126d28e208fefdc7e051e058179a.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After we got the pulley off I took the front casting off and use the parts washer on that and other bold and the governor rod.A80DDF19-7305-45AC-8D4C-7C6B3F0BD5A7.thumb.jpeg.de140a63d5e44e22b94d39aa9c587fe0.jpeg2C9D0365-2D63-423B-8FFF-8587BD779643.thumb.jpeg.ceec656afd4eeef6599e068c3d8498fe.jpegThese are before and after pics of the parts that I cleaned last night. I know there not restoration quality but I did the best I could with what I could use to clean them and I’m not restoring it now so that okay.0BAAE8E8-DFFF-4D03-A1EC-9C250684C540.thumb.jpeg.4c345bd84bdd008ff777a4c15609148c.jpegThis is after I got the casting off and everything is pretty clean inside. Now we will order the seal kit and the front main seal and the governor seal will be replaced. Then I’ll go onto the rear main seal. I’ve had a lot of fun doing this so far since it’s my first tractor to tear into and I’m learning new things everytime I work on it. I just did this last night and so I will keep you guys posted on how it is going. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ordered oil seals yesterday and a couple other parts from Steiner tractor parts and since this is an FFA project they said that they would do free shipping for the parts so that's a win-win. Parts should be here late next week so hopefully I can start covering some more ground on this project. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing about the Formal Cub is it was a real tractor with real capabilities. One of my relatives and several other farmers had one in the early 50's in coastal South Carolina. In some cases it was the only tractor they owned. It's best use was on a small tobacco acreage as the machine to keep the weeds out and the high value crop growing. Nice to see one that is not going to the scrapper.   I spent many hours operating one but never had to tear into one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/19/2018 at 11:01 PM, IHhogfarmer said:

After we got the pulley off I took the front casting off and use the parts washer on that and other bold and the governor rod.A80DDF19-7305-45AC-8D4C-7C6B3F0BD5A7.thumb.jpeg.de140a63d5e44e22b94d39aa9c587fe0.jpeg2C9D0365-2D63-423B-8FFF-8587BD779643.thumb.jpeg.ceec656afd4eeef6599e068c3d8498fe.jpegThese are before and after pics of the parts that I cleaned last night. I know there not restoration quality but I did the best I could with what I could use to clean them and I’m not restoring it now so that okay.0BAAE8E8-DFFF-4D03-A1EC-9C250684C540.thumb.jpeg.4c345bd84bdd008ff777a4c15609148c.jpegThis is after I got the casting off and everything is pretty clean inside. Now we will order the seal kit and the front main seal and the governor seal will be replaced. Then I’ll go onto the rear main seal. I’ve had a lot of fun doing this so far since it’s my first tractor to tear into and I’m learning new things everytime I work on it. I just did this last night and so I will keep you guys posted on how it is going. 

Your cleanup doesn't look bad to me.  As long as the grease, rust, oil, and loose/peeling paint are off it should be fine.  Keep us posted along the way, we love pictures.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing major right now. We ordered the parts we needed last week and they haven’t came yet so hopefully the will come before the weekend so I can work on the tractor some more. I did take the hydraulic lines off and cleaned them up (there in really nice shape) and since I got a few things off I used some WD-40 to see how well things cleaned up and it did pretty well. But we got some brake cleaner so I’ll do more cleaning with that . One thing I’m not sure about is getting the governor back on and everything timed right Ive been doing some research on that but we'll see about that when dad and I have to put it back on- sorry it’s been slow guys ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Parts came today. We had to order the whole engine kit with the front,real main gaskets, oil pan gasket and numerous other gaskets and seals that I’ll replace too. We had to order a new pulley unfortunately because part of the original chipped off.  Stiener had to get the governor seal from a different place and that’s my guess as why it took so long to get here. For getting the governor seal on correctly what is the best way to get it back in without damaging anything, do you hav to put any grease on it to get it in?D7CA72D4-ACE8-4A1C-A451-DE98F841569A.thumb.jpeg.046485d388fd00317c3f53966d89f88e.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The first pic is after I took the magneto off and then the water intake came off for cleaning I and use brake cleaner behind all that. The second pic is after we got the governor seal out, to do that I had to take the idler gear out so I could get to it. The last picture is just of numerous parts that I have taken off. I cleaned the governor up with brake cleaner and didn’t do anything with the carberator or the magneto, however we did replace the coil for the mag last fall so it is in good shape the other is the water intake casting after I cleaned it up and the part above that is the idler gear that I mentioned before. 

E0B1AE25-8315-40EC-9911-9C3BD0961851.jpeg

0E97E909-1F13-4B5A-87AF-0143EA18B2D0.jpeg

C2388D83-E8A5-4211-B5E5-0ABF4AC55788.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

5 hours ago, metamora farmall said:

Well it's better to have extra gaskets then find out you need them and have to order them. You going to get the mag checked over.

When we replace the coil in the mag last fall our mechanic looked over it and said that everything looked good, and everything was in good shape when the tractor last ran.

One thing I would like to find out is the best way of getting the new seals in correctly. Last night we tried to install the seal that goes in the housing between the governor and the mag but it seemed like it didn’t want to go in, any ideas on this it would be helpful-thx 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, IHhogfarmer said:

One thing I would like to find out is the best way of getting the new seals in correctly. Last night we tried to install the seal that goes in the housing between the governor and the mag but it seemed like it didn’t want to go in, any ideas on this it would be helpful-thx 

Invest in a set of seal drivers.  I got a cheapy set from Harbor Freight that works ok for me. 

If you ever need things for the Cub you can't find elsewhere you can give these guys a try.  http://www.tmtractor.com/  I have used them in the past and they seem to have just bout anything for a Cub you can think of.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Over the last couple days I’ve made some headway with the cub project. Wednesday night dad and I installed the seal that goes in the housing for the governor and magneto( I’ve heard that’s called a small bore seal but not sure) the the front main gasket went in and the front casting went on. Then the governor gasket and the governor went on and the governor shaft also and then tightened everything up. 

7F1CC9F5-C227-458F-A9E3-AB5EDA2D6951.thumb.jpeg.36f5d5f3dbab24c12f6fcf1fa965317d.jpeg

Yesterday I did quite a bit too I got new hoses for the water intake and radiator then put the water intake back on and installed the magneto then went around to the other side of the engine to remove the valve cover and replace the gasket and finally installed the carburetor.

7D785F4C-C298-417E-AE11-0A93F9F6D5D9.thumb.jpeg.b0311a51494cb2606755e36055636320.jpegAB3BC313-416E-4897-A9F6-FA812ECDCA4D.thumb.jpeg.e8e3454228010360c6efce6ad749ef67.jpeg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The valve inspection cover was stuck on pretty good so I used a flathead screwdriver to slowly pry it off. The I had to scrap off the old seal and used the parts cleaner and a wire brush to clean everything up, it took a while but it cleaned up pretty well. The valves inside looked good to me even though I don’t know a whole lot about them. The I put the cover back on with the new gasket and tightened up the bolts. What’s next on the list is taking the front of the tractor to the car wash to clean it up and put the front pulley back on so hopefully both will be done by the end of the weekend. Here is a picture of the valves and the cover when I got done cleaning both sides. 

 

 

EAE9EA12-C0F1-40B7-B974-7ECA03FC3631.jpeg

477D60E7-1DFF-4673-94D2-C6FC4A71D7C4.jpeg

DAD93137-5372-44B6-8BE1-1053D752455A.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/13/2018 at 6:44 PM, Ihcubguy said:

If you ever need things for the Cub you can't find elsewhere you can give these guys a try.  http://www.tmtractor.com/  I have used them in the past and they seem to have just bout anything for a Cub you can think of.

Thanks for the website. That is how I learned how to read the casting dates but I never looked for parts until the other day. 

Thank you everyone one else for the kind words and advice. This past Saturday I did a LOT of work with the cub. First dad heated the pulley and put it on the shaft, then we took the front end to the car wash and it cleaned most of the big stuff off. 

F5AB3D83-DB94-4EA2-A35C-1277E4536B68.thumb.jpeg.e97f5fdfcf91396063f12cdeb9144da7.jpeg

 

Since we don’t have a cherry pickers made our own stand for the front end which has worked. And when we got in there we took the clutch off and everything on it looks good on it. This tractor was split in the rear in 1984( we have paper work from then and it show what was done to it) it shows there was a clutch kit so I assume they replaced the clutch and the retainer was replaced during that time also because it has an IH R2 part #. The next step it to put the rear main back together and we need to get a clutch alignment tool also so I think I am on the downhill side of tackling this project? 

C244A1EA-A668-494D-ABA4-692D9F775B25.thumb.jpeg.627fa9bced0e0811f0dc7ddbc099b488.jpegFFA8C283-5084-4FF8-AC0E-4DB09DF0CBA9.thumb.jpeg.8a6238f777c6a46feaad7bd86c6e355d.jpeg42AF21EC-33D2-47B5-AA57-3CA0D6A80C20.thumb.jpeg.0dfeed8fe786bdb31025ddc39bf1cbeb.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On Friday, March 16, 2018 at 10:35 AM, IHhogfarmer said:

The valve inspection cover was stuck on pretty good so I used a flathead screwdriver to slowly pry it off. The I had to scrap off the old seal and used the parts cleaner and a wire brush to clean everything up, it took a while but it cleaned up pretty well. The valves inside looked good to me even though I don’t know a whole lot about them. The I put the cover back on with the new gasket and tightened up the bolts. What’s next on the list is taking the front of the tractor to the car wash to clean it up and put the front pulley back on so hopefully both will be done by the end of the weekend. Here is a picture of the valves and the cover when I got done cleaning both sides.

 

 

EAE9EA12-C0F1-40B7-B974-7ECA03FC3631.jpeg

477D60E7-1DFF-4673-94D2-C6FC4A71D7C4.jpeg

DAD93137-5372-44B6-8BE1-1053D752455A.jpeg

 i see lots of sludge on those valve springs, and the same with the timing gears. also good idea to adjust the valves now as thats an important deal. good idea to check the compression also because the only way you are going to tell how the valves look is by removing the head.  with valve face and seat wear , the critical clearance is decreased so by not keeping valves adjusted regularly you will eventually loose compression and burn the valves because they were not closing completely. its apart now so now is the time to get er done. that sludge is caused by a low detergent oil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the clutch put back on and used a clutch alignment tool so everything is good there. We have had the tractor put back together for about a week and I re-did some of the wiring like the starter, main wire harness and the battery cable. The batter box, connections, and battery posts had some corrosion on them so I cleaned all of that up and got everything put back together. After I was satisfied with how things looked so far I flipped the hood upside down on a set of saw horses took the fuel strainer off cleaned that and used brake cleaner, a wire brush and a putty knife lightly to clean the junk off. Then after that was done we put the hood on. The only thing left now is to put the carb on... I need to do some work on that, get hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic block, put engine oil in, antifreeze, and use a tread tape to rethread some holes for the side panels in the front casting. So I’m close hang in there too see the finished product?

 

38A5CD3F-6FA8-44C2-9CD8-26AE9AD3B82B.jpeg

EFCFC43C-CD71-4394-8C14-AF3E4AD13CD6.jpeg

C61EE52D-4BDB-420E-B2A2-AB79C7EE0FC9.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...