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farmallzach

Super MD Questions.

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I'm currently working on my '53 Super MD, I have a couple of questions.

1) I broke the big glass sediment bowl for the Diesel fuel, is this available yet?

2) This tractor is 12 volt, it has a generator on it, would that be Positive ground or negative ground? I'm thinking that it should still be positive ground, it has never charged since I have had it.

3) I'm putting a rear main seal and clutch in this thing. I plan on using this thing a lot this coming summer, it may ever have to pinch hit on my 336 Deere baler from time to time. Are there better clutches than others out there or do they all come from the same factory anymore? 

Also I have heard that rear main seals were a common problem on these, any advice on that one? 

4) My starter doesn't not engage properly, and runs really slow, I see there are starter drive kits available for these. Has anyone had experience with those? 

Thanks.

 

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Ill answer what I can,

1) Yes they are available new and also occasionally on ebay. 

2) Should be Positive ground

3) I can attest to rear main leakage, our ODS6 leaks like crazy with a new seal in it. Its on the to do list for repair.

4) If the drive gear moves freely in the drive you may need a rebuild on the starter motor side, or may have an issue with old cables and connections not supplying full amperage to the starter or a weak battery. 

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On the rear seal,soak the felt overnight in engine oil and do not trim the felt. The starter on these engines do not turn the engine real fast. Took mine in to have it checked because I didn't think it was spinning the engine like it should, they told me it was fine. It wasn't made to turn the engine fast but had lots to torque.

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I wouldn't worry too much about a new clutch.  Those old letter series tractors had the smoothest engaging clutches ever made in them. 30 years ago you could get Cera-Metallic 4-pad clutches like the newer IH's, 86-series were built with, they were kinda grabby.

Both my '51 M and '54 Super H still have the factory installed clutches in them, 64 and 67 years old!  M has been the loader tractor since new, Super H only the last 22-23 years. They don't get run a lot now days but they used to run every day years ago.  Both still have plenty of adjustment left and don't slip.

A Super MD should do a fine job running a small square baler. My only advice,  be consistent in size of your windrows. Big or small doesn't matter, just be consistent.  I got spoiled raking for the neighbor's 55-T engine driven baler,  you could vary tractor speed with the throttle and baler speed stayed consistent, even stop with the engine clutch.  Then one day we borrowed his new #37 baler and ran it with the Super H.  I ran in 2nd gear baling all day over the 20 acres, every windrow was one round, two passes of a 7 ft rake, consistent!  Never a problem over-loading the baler.

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On the rear seal, straighten out the seal retainer. No doubt it will be pulled out of shape . Use a  good gasket sealer that will fill in any gaps  between engine and retainer and between the two halves.  On the felt, you should have to work pretty hard to get it all into the groove if it is a good quality felt. If it just about falls into place, it will not stand the test. Do not cut any off.   And , like said, soak it down good with engine oil.   Of course, you don't want any excess movement up and down or back and forth on the crankshaft or the seal cannot hold.  Should not be a problem.  

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Well I did get the Super MD split last night, that rear main seal has been leaking for a long time by the way it looks.

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One more question, can someone tell me the year of the engine by the serial number? Here is what I believe is the engine serial number: FDBKM 9222

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You can check the casting codes on block or head and see if they are in the same time frame as the rest of the tractor.  Is 9222 close to the tractor ( on clutch housing) #?  1952 Date code X, 53-Y, 54- Z.

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how do you keep the shop clean enough for all the bling?green

what size is it?

obviously tall enough to drive in with bish bin extensions,why did you go with center support posts?           height restrictions, had to balance snow load?

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The shop belongs to my boss, he lets me work on my own stuff in there. The building was actually a factory at one time, LaCrosse Footwear used to make hip and chest waders there. The building has a front part which is 100' Wide by 150' long, the back half is 120' Wide by 100' long, with a 2 place truck loading dock off one side. The building originally had no overhead doors in it, we put 2 in the front, one is 16' high by 20' Wide the other is a 12' by 12'. The only thing that sucks about the building is that there is no floor drains, so you can't wash anything in there. Our shop gets cluttered and things gets dusty, it's hard to keep it clean, but it works out quite well for us. I can fold out our 12 row planters in the stalls to work on them.

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Did you get your rear main out? Had it been converted to neoprene or was it still felt? 

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Its still felt, I was not aware of a conversion. Do they work well? I really don't want to make this a regular thing fixing the rear main seal.

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I think the neoprene lasted longer, but the seals are next to none available so your probably safer using felt. I'll need to do mine but not sure how i can find one. I know you can have custom seals made, kinda surprised it hasn't been done yet. 

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On 2/14/2018 at 4:46 PM, pete23 said:

On the rear seal, straighten out the seal retainer. No doubt it will be pulled out of shape . Use a  good gasket sealer that will fill in any gaps  between engine and retainer and between the two halves.  On the felt, you should have to work pretty hard to get it all into the groove if it is a good quality felt. If it just about falls into place, it will not stand the test. Do not cut any off.   And , like said, soak it down good with engine oil.   Of course, you don't want any excess movement up and down or back and forth on the crankshaft or the seal cannot hold.  Should not be a problem.  

How do you straighten out the seal retainer?

 

Zach - You are really going "Fast and Furious" on this project. lol  Not much to provide that hasn't already been said.  I can say I tried using a felt seal in the steel retainer and it leaked after 30? hours.  Portions of the internet said it would work.  I can't say that is why it failed, but I followed all the other advice and it still leaks.

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13 hours ago, Scott! said:

How do you straighten out the seal retainer?

 

Zach - You are really going "Fast and Furious" on this project. lol  Not much to provide that hasn't already been said.  I can say I tried using a felt seal in the steel retainer and it leaked after 30? hours.  Portions of the internet said it would work.  I can't say that is why it failed, but I followed all the other advice and it still leaks.

You straighten it on a flat surface with cautious use of a hammer.  Then a belt sander or sand paper on flat surface.  If that retainer is bent and cannot seal, you have a guaranteed leak.  With todays gasket sealers on the market, you have it made as it does not need to be perfect. . Back 50 years ago it was much more difficult. On the felt, if that felt is not big and fat, much wider than the groove and require considerable effort to get it in the groove, it will also have a guaranteed leak.  

As far as the lip seal, you also need a different retainer for that seal and it is not that great anyway.  The old cranks have grooves to disprerse the oil and that new seal does not like them grooves.  They have to be worked over to not damage the lip  style seal.  Felt is fine.  Worked for many many years . All old H & M's had felt seals, along with the smaller models tractors as well.  When we started to have rear seal leakage problems was when IH came with the one piece lip seal on the 6 cyl engines.  Lord only knows how many tractors I split due to those seals leaking.  Then you could not get a speedy sleeve thin enough to repair worn groove in crankshaft.  Now days, my machinist says he can get a very thin one.  I even wrote the IH Co. at one time and they even answered. Said, it was not possible to get a thin enough wear sleeve, so, there we were.  

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I did manage to get my flywheel cleaned up this week.

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On 2/19/2018 at 3:18 PM, farmallzach said:

One more question, can someone tell me the year of the engine by the serial number? Here is what I believe is the engine serial number: FDBKM 9222

that is a engine out of a farmall md. The super md engine would be stamped d264 then the serial number. Fdbkm would make that engine somewhere in the 1947-1949 time frame.

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14 hours ago, farmall1941 said:

that is a engine out of a farmall md. The super md engine would be stamped d264 then the serial number. Fdbkm would make that engine somewhere in the 1947-1949 time frame.

Thanks, that's what I figured. 

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Kinda a bummer if it has the smaller engine in it.

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