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Just looking for some general advice on stripping/repainting metal. I'm interested in what people do for their restorations. From the "spray oxide straight over the rust and all, she'll be right" to the multiple coats to get a factory floor finish.

Personally I'm just coming to grips with a cheap sandblaster for the first time, and trying some airbrushing too. Looking to wire wheel/sandblast parts of dads Ford 5000 tractor, then a coat of primer followed by ford blue topcoat. Not sure what's required over that, if anything. What sort of top coat is advised to keep agri machinery looking good, without going into sportscar territory?

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I hate to sandblast to much of my time  personally , I hire it now , to much dust ,wear and tear on compressor ,. So what do I do for rust. Power wash clean the dirt and grease off . 

I use now is a mixture of 50% water + white vinegar  and soak for few days depends on steels or cast irons  the rusted parts a then power wash , dry and paint asap with rusty primer , then that's my take on . 

here is a sample of rusty Bicycle seat   soaked in vineger and water . Ohio is the capital of rust ! 

 

 

image.jpeg

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15 hours ago, stronger800 said:

I love ford 5000's.  And ford blue is about the easiest color to work with too.  I too would avoid sandblasting.  Why disturb that heavy factory primer? 

 

Wow you've got just a few!

 

Nah the panels are specked with rust/bare metal as it is, so I figured may as well take the whole lot back and prime/paint from scratch!

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I take my pieces to a professional blaster , He uses the proper media for the item being blasted.

   Then he applies a etch primer which buys us time before surface rusting.

      Then body work is done to the level you want ,then primed and use a QUALITY Poly -Urethane automotive single stage paint.  

          Tony

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  • 3 weeks later...
On ‎1‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 10:12 AM, stronger800 said:

I love ford 5000's.  And ford blue is about the easiest color to work with too.  I too would avoid sandblasting.  Why disturb that heavy factory primer?  Manually Sand it smooth. Even Smoother if you are  going for perfection.  

image.jpg

That's a pretty picture 800.

I also have some red and blue toys. 

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  • 10 months later...

So a long overdue update...

 

I ended up wire brushing rust on an old horse plough I wanted to preserve. Dusted it off, painted with rust converter. Then a coat of red oxide base coat with Flood Penetrol mixed in, plus a second coat doing touch ups. Finally two coats of white enamel with an industrial hardener/setter in it.

 

The Flood Penetrol made the red oxide go on like an absolute charm. With my leftover paint I painted some red oxide and some white enamel separately on another implement outdoors. 4 months later rust is rising through the white enamel but the red oxide is like new, seems the Flood Penetrol really does as advertised I am extremely impressed with both how it made the paint run and cling better, and so far the ability to keep rust at bay and not crack.

 

Oh and finally here's some images of the white bits of the Ford I repainted, plus you can see quite easily the quick-and-dirty blue spray paint touchups I did, doesn't stand out so bad in real life.

 

IMG_0517.thumb.JPG.c45b4ded54ffbb05ab6e74d29c86f17d.JPG

IMG_0520.thumb.JPG.6627bdc0858ea865a9bdbca5d734c7d7.JPG

IMG_0516.thumb.JPG.58fefb96fbaaf858854a828c4a967355.JPG

IMG_0518.thumb.JPG.71ece4944f1d8058b0a4ca559c4dfba8.JPG

 

I think the machines that did the best out of this project was the rear tractor forks and the cage trailer you can see, they got a nice coat of leftover grey primer used up on them which improved them greatly 😄

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Have not noticed a license plate on a tractor 🚜 in a long time👀 . I use to see them as a lad across the line in Pennsylvania, 

Also , are you close to Lassiters gold ?

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On 12/28/2018 at 6:14 PM, RustyNumbat said:

Well if the story is true and it's around the WA/NT border, then I'm only a smooth 1,600 miles from a possible location of Lasseters Reef!

Hard for me fathom, how big Australia, is ️I think Pennsylvania is huge

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Read on another forum years ago about a fella that built a tub you could fill with washing soda/water mix and connect electrodes to parts hung in it and remove rust with a battery charger hooked to the electordes becasue it made electrolysys.  He also had a recipe for a lye mixture to use in the same tub to remove paint.

Ive had good luck using rustoleum rustly metal primer to paint some plows in the past. Just wire brush off the loose stuff, clean it up good with some degreaser and paint with the primer. I let it dry and then have coated with John Deere green. gonna try some 2150 someday. Have also covered the primer with rustoleums version of IH red for things that dont matter if its a 100% match. I used that combo on some dual rims once and on some steps for my saddle tanks on my 1466. So far holding up decent and paint match was good. Not sure how it would look on hood/fenders/etc though.

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2 hours ago, 1967806 said:

Read on another forum years ago about a fella that built a tub you could fill with washing soda/water mix and connect electrodes to parts hung in it and remove rust with a battery charger hooked to the electordes becasue it made electrolysys.  He also had a recipe for a lye mixture to use in the same tub to remove paint.

Ive had good luck using rustoleum rustly metal primer to paint some plows in the past. Just wire brush off the loose stuff, clean it up good with some degreaser and paint with the primer. I let it dry and then have coated with John Deere green. gonna try some 2150 someday. Have also covered the primer with rustoleums version of IH red for things that dont matter if its a 100% match. I used that combo on some dual rims once and on some steps for my saddle tanks on my 1466. So far holding up decent and paint match was good. Not sure how it would look on hood/fenders/etc though.

I ve used the the derusting battery charger. 👍🏿👀it works good. 

My method is 55 gallon plastic barrel with lid cut it. 

I put a sheeet metal host inside diameterof barrels , that way yo get 360 degree line of site cleaning I put a chained to part submerged in washing soda and water  connect the charger to the host ,I think positive, and at negative to the part. And then plug in the the 110 volt supply. I haven’t done it much check safety and you tube for more help. The part cannot touch the host .

Got to do it outside because hydrogen is a by product. 🚫🚭

if you spray it with wd40  after rinsing it will turn a nice black oxide . 

I just don’t like it it cause it’s dangerous around if you got grand kids around and I can’t risk it . I don’t like leaving it going 24 or 48 hours without someone that know to unplug it. Our you forgot its. hydrogen

 I just use white vinegar and water and let it soak and walk away 👀👍🏿🤓

 

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On ‎1‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 7:57 PM, 560Dennis said:

I ve used the the derusting battery charger. 👍🏿👀it works good. 

My method is 55 gallon plastic barrel with lid cut it. 

I put a sheeet metal host inside diameterof barrels , that way yo get 360 degree line of site cleaning I put a chained to part submerged in washing soda and water  connect the charger to the host ,I think positive, and at negative to the part. And then plug in the the 110 volt supply. I haven’t done it much check safety and you tube for more help. The part cannot touch the host .

Got to do it outside because hydrogen is a by product. 🚫🚭

if you spray it with wd40  after rinsing it will turn a nice black oxide . 

I just don’t like it it cause it’s dangerous around if you got grand kids around and I can’t risk it . I don’t like leaving it going 24 or 48 hours without someone that know to unplug it. Our you forgot its. hydrogen

 I just use white vinegar and water and let it soak and walk away 👀👍🏿🤓

 

It also seems like I remember some concern over what to do with the solution once is used. Cant remember what that was all about for sure now.

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Chris (Sugarmaker) on the IH Construction Board has used electrolysis with good success on some fairly big pieces of his old crawler .... I used it to refurbish an old sword bayonet, and it worked very well for that ... 

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I did some cast iron skillets that were fugly dirty when I got them.....  came out looking darn near spanking brand new.  Jumped them into the oven to season them and they are in excellent shape.

My understanding (and it might be wrong) is that the process only works for 'line of site' so if you have your anode in the tank and the front side of your item is facing it, then the front side will be cleaned.....but the back side, which was NOT exposed to the anode will still need to be done.

Oh, and don't stick your finger in the water during the process.  If you have your charger (which is what I used) set on 2-amp, probably no big deal.....but if you put it on 20 amps, you might get your finger (electronically) bitten.  Doubt it would hurt you but it will startle you.

 

 

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On 1/10/2018 at 9:29 AM, 560Dennis said:

I hate to sandblast to much of my time  personally , I hire it now , to much dust ,wear and tear on compressor ,. So what do I do for rust. Power wash clean the dirt and grease off . 

I use now is a mixture of 50% water + white vinegar  and soak for few days depends on steels or cast irons  the rusted parts a then power wash , dry and paint asap with rusty primer , then that's my take on . 

here is a sample of rusty Bicycle seat   soaked in vineger and water . Ohio is the capital of rust ! 

 

 

image.jpeg

Were pretty rusty over here in pa. to! Haha i hate it

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1 hour ago, Gleaner k2 said:

Were pretty rusty over here in pa. to! Haha i hate it

If it weren’t for rust I would be a millionaire. 

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5 hours ago, 560Dennis said:

If it weren’t for rust I would be a millionaire. 

If that ain't a country song already someone needs to make it one 😀Possibly Woody Guthrie style, though he'd use dust instead of rust...

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  • 1 month later...

Folks,

 Happened by on this topic. 

Yes the electrolysis process works well its a line of site process so it won't get in holes unless you place a anode in there too. I use it on a lot of sheet metal. I have it set up outside and generally run it at 2 amp.  Arm and Hammer washing soda is what I use in the water to promote the process. Have done many parts over the last 5-6 years. IH, AC, and Massey. I like it for sheet metal as it removes most of the paint too. No its not acid dip and its not sandblasting! But if you have a tank and some time its way better than grinding paint and rust. Generally I feel I have a hard time keeping up with the finish work. It works all day and night!:)

Here is a picture of a WD (Allis) fender in the tank:

jqtlR3J.jpg

Electrolysis did not get it 100% but there was some plastic filler on this fender.

7UALdkq.jpg

RMuK1gR.jpg

Lots of time and its going to be ready for paint this spring.

jUf2Eq1.jpg

Here is the WD grill in the E tank:

TZBXMOT.jpg

New screen and some body work, in primer.

MZ9l9MA.jpg

Regards,

 Chris

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Rust removal by using an electrolysis bath will amaze you if you haven’t used it before or seen it work... so very easy to set up, especially for smaller pieces ....and as Sugarmaker and others have shown, it can be used for bigger pieces just as effectively...cost of materials needed is minimal..

As mentioned in an earlier post, I used it for a vintage sword bayonet that had been outside in the elements for years.. and it worked well.., just used it again on this khukuri knife that had also been out in the elements for years, and was as rusty as any piece of steel could be under those conditions..

One night in the electrolysis bath was all that was required ..DD128FCF-F1DD-4D63-A58B-B0B2945F15F0.thumb.jpeg.cbcba89b22555799701bcf260dec76e8.jpeg

 

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Just a bit of "a year later" on the first thing I painted, if anyone is interested to see the results.

2hejv1A.jpg

Both grey parts were painted at the same time (on the left it's mostly rusty now)

The horizontal bar in the centre was wire brushed back, cured with a paint on rust converter then airbrushed with grey primer.

The right hand wheel was sandblasted, though not completely to bare metal, then airbrushed with grey primer.

As you can see the cleaner surface and lack of rust underneath means the wheel is still looking relatively beautiful, compared to the left hand even though it was treated with rust converter. I have no doubt if I had sprayed over the wheel with a top enamel coat it'd still look flawless.

So there you go, surface preparation really is as important as the label says!

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