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edwardporter1

M, what oil in rear?

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I got my old M out of the barn, first tractor that I restored. Runs strong and I am going to start using it on the ranch. What oil in the rear am I to use. Fill is on the side.am I correct? Couldn't find my op Manuel. Here is a pic.

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Fill is on top cover, side is level.

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Thanks ,i was thinking it was gear oil. Wasn't sure. I've had the tractor 30 years, restored it 25 years ago. Second owner, had an easy life, came off a dupont family estate in Delaware

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90 wt mineral oil gl-1  no additives ,they seLl  it at TCS  one source , there are others warren oils 

i used it cause the differential it has bronze bushings. The other oils have to much sulfur additives ,that attactment to bronze . 

I have to drained out 80 /90 out of mine , photos show results from using . I called my oil jobber ,they filled me in on why the bronze chips in the oil .  The additives  in the 80/90 attach to the bronze and under pressure and heat  it is tearing the flake of bronze as the shaft rotates . My oil was the ugly pea soup looking stuff ,I knew something was wrongs so I research the cause. When I drains the oil  out I was shocked at all the bronze chips in sludge 

You will find a lot of sludge in bottom of differiential  that come with age of oil . Best to have cover off to imspect it too ! 

Good luck 

That's  my advice ,and take on it from my an experience I had. 

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If your going to change the transmission oil at a minimum I suggest you remove the pto from the back of the transmission, a few bolt and it slides right out. You will only need to get or make one gasket. This will allow you to scrape/flush out all of the heavy goo from the bottom of the case and clean any debris out from inside the pto housing. That old goo holds alot of debris you don't want making its way back into circulation. 

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9 hours ago, SAM86 said:

If your going to change the transmission oil at a minimum I suggest you remove the pto from the back of the transmission, a few bolt and it slides right out. You will only need to get or make one gasket. This will allow you to scrape/flush out all of the heavy goo from the bottom of the case and clean any debris out from inside the pto housing. That old goo holds alot of debris you don't want making its way back into circulation. 

And get a speedi sleeve for the PTO shaft and a new seal. It‚Äôs depressing to have to do it a year after putting 13 gallons of oil in it. ūüė°

also, I know it’s not the same, but I lost a pinion bearing one time from being overly thorough cleaning it,  id gone to town with brake clean with the cover off, refilled and headed off, it lasted about 12 miles, near as I can tell the damage was done to the outer bearing before oil ever slung up there to lube it. Ended up with the pinion walking up the carrier. Long and short of it, I am always careful about adding a couple shots of lube to bearings I’ve cleaned and rotating them slowly by hand to spread it... that is if your pulling the top cover.. otherwise, disregard. 

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I replace all seals and refill with Hy-Trans.

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3 hours ago, supermpuller said:

Not in a M

I think Case IH claims Hy-Tran is all right in an M.

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4 hours ago, supermpuller said:

 

 

 

4 hours ago, supermpuller said:

Not in a M

 

58 minutes ago, lightninboy said:

I think Case IH claims Hy-Tran is all right in an M.

 

4 hours ago, supermpuller said:

Not in a M

 

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These old tractors were build to run 80/90 gear oils, unless its a TA. If you want, fill it with hytran, but be prepared to fix a lot of oil leaks shortly after, them old leather seals at 50 years old will not stop hytran from going past them, I've been there.

Carl

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Best way I have found to clean out crap out of the rear ends of old tractors is diesel fue. Drain oil, refill with diesel, drive tractor down road & back 1/4 -1/2 mile. Drain oil & let drip over nihht then refill with appropriate oil.  For SM  & older I use 80w/90, for SMTA &  newr Hy-Tran. As mention, Hy-Tran in an M will seep like a sieve unless you completrrly reseal everything. Have never seen any sign of brass  in 80w/90 after deeaining.

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The only bronze I have ever seen in a M transmission is the bushings for the reverse idler, the pto drive shaft (back of countershaft, and the brake pedal cross shaft. The idler shaft is usually pretty full of fillings from shifting with no way for the filings to come out unless you disassemble the idler assy which is usually why those bushings wear out. In 50 years I have never seen any brake shaft bushings worn to warrant replacement and have only replaced a couple of countershaft rear bushings. There is no bronze in the differential  any good 80 oil that can be used in transmissions should work for another 50 years. Most people do not want to replace all the seals and many times the seal wear surfaces need repair to get hy-tran to stay in plus those gaskets wick a small amount of #80 oil over time Hytran makes that worse. It can be done but you need to be thorough about sealing up  every thing. 

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If the seals are bad enough they won't hold Hy-Tran, they might not hold gear lube either.

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