lach13

86 series Hydraulic TA problems

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Hi all, after searching the web and the forum I finally decided to create a new topic. To get down to basics I have found my self looking at an 886 which was a former family tractor. The tractor has recently come up for sale with only 4600 hrs on it, so i went and had a look at it today. My main issue is with the TA;  when changing between either speed you cannot feel any speed change. The lever has plenty of resistance and sort of snapping feel to it so I was thinking that it probably wouldn't be a cable issue, but i could be wrong too. Just looking for any ideas as to what could be wrong with it before purchasing as I have never had anything to do with one.

Thanks in advance Lachlan   

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The one 786 I've got did exactly what you describe. Found out that the one snap ring on the quill shaft somehow popped off the groove and let the shaft move enough that the hydraulic pressure blew out the teflon seal on the ta. Weird things happen. Not saying that is what the problem is with that 886.

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If you are considering this tractor buy it with the mind set that it will need a TA.

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the linkage may be broken on the firewall which would allow for the detent spring to make it feel like it is still shifting. a quick look under the left cab steps to see if the ta spool is moving up and down when you move the handle would tell you if the linkage is operating properly. the snapring on the ta spool should just make contact with the retaining nut when shifting to direct drive

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It could very well be cable and linkage related. Common for the piece that hooks to lever linkage on firewall under the hood to break because it rusted up. Check everything for movement. With lever ahead, the snapring on the valve that the cable shifts should be just about  touching the retaining nut on the valve body.

 

 

Ha funny,  jus what he said. Lol.   We were typing at same time😁

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The mechanical linkage for the T/A is troublesome to start with and if the tractor sits a lot is even more of a problem.

Its likely the T/A is bad, but start with making sure the linkage does all work and is adjusted properly by the book.

I've put on a couple electric T/A kits on tractors I own myself the last couple years and so far have been happy with them as they have eliminated the frequent linkage hassles.

We will see how they do long term after they get some age on them.

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check the cable if the lower linkage binds up it will kink the cable handle still has resistance but the spool's not moving

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Thanks everyone for their replies, so in the worst case scenario the TA is out will it hurt anything if the machine is driven like that until it gets fixed? And how much work is it to replace one?

Thanks Lachlan

 

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Most farmers drive them until they won't go anymore before fixing the TA.

It is a significant job to replace the TA. The tractor must be split twice to remove the TA section of the transmission. Here in the USA it's a pretty common job and there are independent shops that specialize in jobs like this. We can take the TA section to a shop and they will replace the TA in a day for  around $2000 US. Not sure about Australia.

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2 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Most farmers drive them until they won't go anymore before fixing the TA.

It is a significant job to replace the TA. The tractor must be split twice to remove the TA section of the transmission. Here in the USA it's a pretty common job and there are independent shops that specialize in jobs like this. We can take the TA section to a shop and they will replace the TA in a day for  around $2000 US. Not sure about Australia.

That sounds like a pretty fair price for the amount of labour involved... doubt I could find anyone that could come close to that price in Canada..

I have had my 1086 for many years now, and the TA has never worked... I assumed it was internal, and as the tractor has always worked fine without the TA, have never bothered to have it repaired.. use it mostly for haying and feeding, with some plowing, disc work, and cultivating...

I am going to order a service/repair manual, and will check out the linkages and cables to make sure that is not my issue.. will be good to have the manuals on hand regardless..

 

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north, that $2000 only covers the work on the TA section itself. You have to disassemble the tractor and get the TA section to their shop, then put the tractor back together.

The TA itself isn't all that expensive. It's all the work getting to it, and all the other things you "may as well" do while you're in there that adds up.

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Just an update, I have bought the tractor with the idea of the TA being shot which most likely will get fixed one day. Im a mechanic at the local agco dealer so hopefully should be able to do it all myself. Other than the TA the tractor seems in really good mechanical condition, it just has a few patches of rust in the cab that will need to be cut out and replaced. I would just like to thank everyone for their input. 

Lachlan

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7 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

north, that $2000 only covers the work on the TA section itself. You have to disassemble the tractor and get the TA section to their shop, then put the tractor back together.

The TA itself isn't all that expensive. It's all the work getting to it, and all the other things you "may as well" do while you're in there that adds up.

That makes more sense... 

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On ‎1‎/‎8‎/‎2018 at 2:36 PM, lach13 said:

Just an update, I have bought the tractor with the idea of the TA being shot which most likely will get fixed one day. Im a mechanic at the local agco dealer so hopefully should be able to do it all myself. Other than the TA the tractor seems in really good mechanical condition, it just has a few patches of rust in the cab that will need to be cut out and replaced. I would just like to thank everyone for their input. 

Lachlan

Congrats!  Post a picture when you get a chance! :)

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So finally got this machine home and found a few more TA symptoms for the experts.

Whilst driving around I have found that it does loke to freewheel down hills and yesterday whilst driving it up a steep hill found that it will also loose drive in both sides of the TA so much so that i ended up going in reverse back down the hill.

I am yet to order a workshop manual for this machine so any recomendations on which one is the best is greatly appreciated. 

As for the rest of the tractor , it all seems to be quite a good machine, shifts nicely, and operates as it should. Only downfall is the usual rust in the cab.

Unfortuatly I cannot take ownership of the 786B in front as it is my fathers but it sure did make for a nice photo

 

 

FOT2EE3 (1).JPG

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Unfortunately, that pretty much means the TA is worn out / shot / toast. The sprag clutch that drives no-matter-what is no longer functional. The holdback clutches on the low side are no longer functional. The direct drive clutches are no longer functional.

Looking at it in the picture, it is well worth repairing. The all-red color scheme is really sharp.

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786 looks really nice! 

 

886 with FWA great find!  Looks like it needs a few things, but hopefully you can get it lined out and have a really nice tractor! 

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Looks like a good example especially being a 4wd, had a soft spot for the 886 when I was a kid.

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786 with cab, interesting. Must be a down under thing

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3 hours ago, 1480x3 said:

786 with cab, interesting. Must be a down under thing

I noticed its also a "Series B" 786. I know that "Series B" was only offered in Australia, but I don't remember what is different from the 86 series that was offered in the States. 

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Lachlan

      After reading through the posts,  I am wondering if the engine clutch is slipping.    You would have all the same symptoms.

GT&T 

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Funny you should mention the clutch as I forgot to mention that the pedal does seem quite low when the engine is running but seems to be normal when switched off. Figured it might have something to do with it being a hydraulic assisted clutch but as i said earlier i dont know that much about these tractors. What made me think of the ta was it likes to run away on the hills (mostly in h3 or h4) and I've never known a main clutch to do this.

The 786 of my fathers has never had any issues probably due to the extremely low 1900 odd hours on it. 

From memory the main difference with the Australian B series is the heavier linkage arms. But there is heaps of small little things like extra mirrors, sun visors, pistol grip shifters and such.

Thanks again Lachlan

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