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Adam - NC

Farmall 240 Fix Up

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So two weeks after l last cranked the farmall, the hydraulics are still holding pressure. The cylinder hasn’t leaked down like it used to. Our plan is to put a gauge temporarily on one of the rear hoses to see what the pressure is doing when it is squealing. 

I put the freshly painted side panels on for the first time. Man do I like the looks of them! Finally looks like a complete tractor.

Also put an IH sticker on the seat. My dad had the idea the day we got the seat, and I finally grew to like the idea. I love the way it’s all coming together.

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On 1/6/2020 at 7:49 PM, BrodyNC said:

Hooked the hoses and cylinder up Sunday. 

Filled up the hydraulics and pushed it outside to see what would happen. Within ten seconds of cranking, the lift was already moving up and down. So we let it run and cycle the air out, then we topped off the fluid. I thought it was all going great and we could move it back to the shed and starting painting more parts. But when we cranked it after topping the fluid off, we realized the pressure regulator under the gas tank doesn’t like a pump that will actually pump. If you leave the lift all the up or down without moving the handle back to the middle, the cylinder and pump fight each other, bogging the motor down and making the most awful sound I’ve ever heard that tractor make. So we have to try and fix the pressure regulator in the blocks under the gas tank, again.

We will probably start another general ih thread to get some help figuring out the problem.

Sorry for the long post, not worded the best. I did my best to explain everything. 

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Just dropped back in on this thread. If am reading this correctly you move the lever to the right of the seat and then the hitch moves- here I am not sure what you are saying, but the hitch should go up or down and match where the lever is at. It should go on pressure to move and then shut off based on where the lever is left. If you have to move it back to the center then the gear set in the valve is out of time or the linkage that follows the hitch is miss adjusted I guess it could have been changed out to a regular valve at some point. There is a whole section in how to set/time the tele-depth valve in my IT manual. The flow control for pressure usually is not a problem if you can move or bump a lever some place and the noise goes away

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12 hours ago, VacDaddyt said:

Just dropped back in on this thread. If am reading this correctly you move the lever to the right of the seat and then the hitch moves- here I am not sure what you are saying, but the hitch should go up or down and match where the lever is at. It should go on pressure to move and then shut off based on where the lever is left. If you have to move it back to the center then the gear set in the valve is out of time or the linkage that follows the hitch is miss adjusted I guess it could have been changed out to a regular valve at some point. There is a whole section in how to set/time the tele-depth valve in my IT manual. The flow control for pressure usually is not a problem if you can move or bump a lever some place and the noise goes away

The follow up linkage is missing.  I need to find the piece from the cylinder to the swing arm on the rockshaft, and from that swing arm to the linkage at the seat.  If you have a 240 with thos parts in place could you post pics and measurements?

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My brother owns it now and have not been there for some time as my job kinda gets in the way so measurements is a no go for me. I see them for sale, the whole hitch that is,  occasionally. I believe there is a small salvage by Lyon Nebraska can't remember the name of it, that had one sitting a few years ago that might have the parts on it. You will have to try salvage yards or the process of trial and error.But that is definitely your problem of why it stays on pressure. You may be able to get a book and do a poor mans copy with a calipers and some standard of measurement to give for size. I guess I am lucky in that my tractors have it complete or just do not have to make it original. They work great when working. The three I have now do not have the linkage and I move the hitch to where I want with the valve that self centers like the one on the front and leave it there. Two have the older style that you set with a depth stop. The IT manual for my 560 has really good picture of the linkage, maybe the 240 manual would also.

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Brody and Dad,

You guys saved my life this snowy afternoon in NWPA! As usual I was checking the construction section and thought I would look over here too. You and your Dad have done a great job bringing this tractor back to good working order! I read the whole thread. What I also saw was the nice Allis WD that you folks had done also! That's where I have a real problem!:) These old tractors can tug at your heart strings, and your wallet too! They can easily become toys that you just dont part with easily! Really enjoyed your pictures and documentation along the way. And yes If I had a 240 that looked like that I would be very proud of it! You have made it look like a VERY sharp detailed and fully functional tractor again. Yes, if you can swing it, get those plows from the yard too. Then load it up and go to a plow day!

Regards,

 Chris

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Haven’t had much time to work on the hydraulics, but here’s the progress. We tore into the hydraulic block originally intended for front cultivators. We bought new o-rings, fittings and hoses.

The plan is to replace the hydraulic block that is currently linked to the rear lift with this block. Since this block is a return to center deal, unlike the one currently on it, we’re thinking that it won’t keep building pressure when the lift is all the way up or down. This block works off a handle by the dash instead of beside the seat. We are going to cut the hard lines running to the lift, so we can attach hose fittings to them.

I’ll put more pics when I get them to better explain what we’re doing. 

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Got a lot done this weekend. Removed the old lift block, linkage, and took the old lift handle off of the seat base. The cultivator block is bolted on for good with fresh o-rings and gaskets. Cut the hard lines running to the rear lift to attach the hoses. 

Overall I am very happy with how it is turning out. Few things left to do before we can crank it and see how it’ll work. I am excited and nervous to see if it will work. The hydraulics have always given us some type of problem, so I hope the new pump, rebuilt relief valve, and this new cultivator block configuration will work for us.

I am definitely open to opinions on our new set up and any suggestions.

Thanks, Brody 

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nice job on the tractor she looks perdy

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We finished most of the work on the hydraulics this weekend.

And does it work great!

Friday night I rolled the tractor out of the shop and we fired it up for the first time after the hydraulic makeover. After we got the lines bled and the fluid topped off, it worked great. So today we first tested it out by using the fast hitch draw bar to move some firewood around. The lift picked the trailer up fine and will hold anywhere you want it to, thanks to the cultivator valve.

Then we put the three point hitch on it and hooked up the scrape blade. Friend had asked us to smooth out their gravel driveway. So we jumped at the opportunity to test the hydraulics. And I couldn’t be happier with it. With the cultivator valve controlling the rear lift, it will now hold anywhere you want it to, instead of always being all the way up, or all the way down. This was a very useful improvement for working with the scrape blade.

There are a few little things left to do, but overall I am very happy we where able to fix this problem we had.

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Here's a little action footage from grading a friends driveway - 

 

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