Adam - NC Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 So.... Back to the 240 project. Both rear axles leak, and when I jack up either side I get a few thousandths movement of the axle at the seal housing. IF the axles are worn, can they be welded and turned back to size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOBSIH856 Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 1 hour ago, Adam - NC said: So.... Back to the 240 project. Both rear axles leak, and when I jack up either side I get a few thousandths movement of the axle at the seal housing. IF the axles are worn, can they be welded and turned back to size? If the axles are worn where the bearing race rides and is out of spec I would look at getting spray welded (what is done to crankshafts) and ground or look into getting that area hard chromed. Here is link to a company that does shaft repair I'm sure there are others out there. http://hausnerinc.com/industrial-hard-chrome-plating-services/hic/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted March 30, 2018 Author Share Posted March 30, 2018 I have a good relationship with a local motor shop that I know can weld and turn shafts, and I think if the wear is small enough they can do hard chrome or send it out for hard chrome. I just didn't know about the weld heating the axle and changing the hardness / strength at a critical point. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOBSIH856 Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 13 hours ago, Adam - NC said: I have a good relationship with a local motor shop that I know can weld and turn shafts, and I think if the wear is small enough they can do hard chrome or send it out for hard chrome. I just didn't know about the weld heating the axle and changing the hardness / strength at a critical point. Chroming or thermal spray welding would have significantly less heat affected(virtually none) area than mig welding and turning in a lathe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKwelder Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 If it’s only a few thousandths is it not more likely the movement is in the bearings? Just wondering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted March 30, 2018 Author Share Posted March 30, 2018 27 minutes ago, BOBSIH856 said: Chroming or thermal spray welding would have significantly less heat affected(virtually none) area than mig welding and turning in a lathe. Good point on the heat input - thank you. 5 minutes ago, AKwelder said: If it’s only a few thousandths is it not more likely the movement is in the bearings? Just wondering I sure hope so - I've been reluctant to tear into the axles because of the money involved. The way the oil pours out I'm going to have to do something about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted April 7, 2018 Author Share Posted April 7, 2018 We started taking parts off to work on the leaking axle seals today. I found OLD stock bearings at a local parts place, got the bearings and seals for $80. I hope I can get the set for the other axle for the same price - I wasn't sure I had the right parts so I just bought enough for one side today. Paint question - while I am this far in, I am thinking about having the wheel centers, fenders, hitch pieces, weights, and whatever else I can sand blasted by a local guy. I primed my last 'restoration' piece by piece with Rustoleum professional primer in spray cans, and painted with machinery enamel I bought from the local ACGO place - Persion Orange #1. I know cheap IH red paint turns pink pretty quick, and I don't want that. Is there a decent quality IH red in spray cans that will hold up halfway decent? The tractor will live in a shed, not sit out all the time. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rust-oleum-specialty-farm-implement-gloss-international-harvester-red-12-oz-spray?cm_vc=-10005 Is this close to the right shade of red? That's what the valve cover was painted with, but I doubt you can really tell by the picture below what it looks like. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted April 7, 2018 Author Share Posted April 7, 2018 Significant destruction has occurred today. Inner bearing is in perfect condition, axle may have SLIGHT wear at outer bearing. Outer bearing has a lot of play in the balls. I’ll mike the axle after lunch and decide if any machine work is in order or not. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 New bearings and seals installed and the axle is back on the tractor. Seems like this is getting out of hand, I had to pull the gas tank to disconnect the hydraulic lines to get the cover off of the transmission. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ny bill o Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 On 4/7/2018 at 8:38 PM, Adam - NC said: New bearings and seals installed and the axle is back on the tractor. Seems like this is getting out of hand, I had to pull the gas tank to disconnect the hydraulic lines to get the cover off of the transmission. welcome to tractor repair 101. every project I have tried turns out like that. just smile and sign the check.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 More parts... had a pretty bad hydraulic leak, so we pulled the valve bodies off to clean them and replace the o-rings between each block. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted April 17, 2018 Author Share Posted April 17, 2018 Brief update... The steering column is stripped down as far as I want to go. Needs a little more wire brushing to be ready for primer. Tonight we got the right axle on a stand and hit the wheel and center off of the axle. I hope to get a local sandblasted to clean up the wheel centers, weights, hitch parts, and some of the sheet metal, and hand clean the chassis from the tail end to the bell housing. We will get that primed and painted, then address the engine and front pedestal. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePunisher Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Looks like u have been busy!! Great work so far!? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planejeff Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Farmallparts.com is a good site for parts needs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
augercreek Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 Yes indeed one thing leads to another and the credit card gets a work out! Nice journaling on this rebuild ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 I made some stands to bolt on while pulling the right rear axle. It felt stable enough pulling the left axle with the right rear wheel and tire still attached and blocking under the rear housing, but without the tire and wheel it looked sketchy to me. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmalldr Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 good idea. Looks like your tractor has the long axles. You have been deep into this one. Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted May 15, 2018 Author Share Posted May 15, 2018 Been a while since I posted an update - have made a little progress. Axles and PTO are black, bellhousing to rear is mostly red, off of the bolt on legs and onto jack stands so I clean those little areas and catch them up. Platforms, pedals, and brake housings are next. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Pope Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 "Seems like this is getting out of hand".....Now where have we all heard that before??! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted May 21, 2018 Author Share Posted May 21, 2018 A few more parts cleaned up, painted, and installed this weekend. It sure is nice to see parts go back on, even if it is just a few. I was cleaning the brake latch rod, and the wire wheel in the grinder are it. Anybody gat one on a parts tractor for sale? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmallFan Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 You need part number 368973R1. Here is a source for them: https://www.wengers.com/parts/catalog/product/view/id/493818 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crashcup Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 On 4/7/2018 at 7:38 PM, Adam - NC said: Seems like this is getting out of hand, I had to pull the gas tank to disconnect the hydraulic lines to get the cover off of the transmission. Hey Adam, do you happen to have any pics of the gas tank mounting? Can't say for sure, but it looks similar to my 444. I need to get that tank off, and I'm not quite sure what I'm in for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted May 24, 2018 Author Share Posted May 24, 2018 Once you get the sheet metal off the gas tank sits in a square frame, two bolts hold the front of the frame to the back of the engine block and a couple hold the frame to the steering column. There is a bolt at each corner of the gas tank that attaches it to the support frame. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 This thing is like Johnny Cash’s Cadillac- one piece at a time! We’ve been plugging along cleaning and painting a few parts at the time. I wish I could find an affordable sand blaster to clean parts for me, but I haven’t yet. We realized today was the day to start putting the dash and wiring on, so things seems to move along pretty quickly for a change. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam - NC Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 Decided to go with a one wire alternator instead of fixing the gennie. Got everything wired tonight and had to pour a little gas in and see what happened. Not sure if this will work, but here is a video. https://www.facebook.com/1225474159/posts/10210802863127402/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.