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Adam - NC

Farmall 240 Fix Up

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We backed the 240 into the corner of the shop yesterday to start the clean up and repair process. The list so far - 

Rebuild carb, fix manifold outlet pipe, new radiator hoses, fix starter, new temp gauge, new oil gauge, drain / flush / fill cooling system, change oil & filter, drain and refill hydraulics and rear end, find a fast hitch drawbar, rewire / add lights / maybe get charging system working, find replacement side panels, replace bushing in steering column... probably a few other things I'm missing

 

What's your favorite supplier for gauges and carb kits?  I may also be looking for a replacement fuel guage sending unit.  If I decide to switch to 12V with an alternator, can I get a compatible sending unit and fuel gauge?

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Adam, great project.  Here are the ones I use the most.  Not in any particular order.  I usually check price and availability and try to combine shipping.

Pilot Knob Restorations, Steiner Tractor, Yesterday Tractor.  And I know there are others.  I've been satisfied with the above.  They all Have online catalogs.  Pilot Knob is order by phone.  Have fun

Dennis

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We've piddle at this a little bit over Christmas break.  Today I wanted to get the steering shaft out of the column, so I could figure out what to do to take the wobble out of it.  I want to get as much slop as I can out of the steering.

Step 1, break a tap off in the puller hole in the steering wheel hub.  The steering wheel is fairly nice, don't want to ruin it.  I took the shaft loose at the u-joint below the dash and got it apart from below.  I guess I'll leave the broken tap in the hole and hope I never have to pull the wheel again.

I decided to drain the antifreeze.  Finally got the drain tube between the front wheels flowing.  The block drain was broken off flush, so I decided to teach my son how to deal with broken bolts.  I drilled a 1/4" hole into the plug and showed him how to break off a bolt extractor.  Then I showed him how to drill tiny holes around the broken extractor and finally wiggle it out.

I got the drain plug drilled out to 1/2", still have a little bit of it to get out of the threads some how.  After rinsing everything off with brake cleaner, I decided to try to heat the remaining metal from the drain plug with a micro torch (butane soldiering iron).  Imagine my surprise when the brake clean floating on the water left in the block ignited.  My son was stoked that he got to use a fire extinguisher on the burning brake cleaner on the lid of the bucket I had drained the antifreeze in.  I was able to blow out the fire running down the block, but the lid of the bucket was too wide to blow it out.

All in all, a normal day in the shop, right?

 

 

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Yup, normall shop day.....Sorry about the bad luck.

I had to weld an Allen wrench into a plug the other day after rounding off two Allen wrenches and the hole with no movement.  It was nice when I finally "won".  The little things take the most time it seems. 

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Be careful with that brake cleaner. It doesn’t mix well with fire.

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Wonder why easy outs are called easy outs?  In my experience, they are not easy and seldom result in getting anything out...  but today we had success!

I had gotten as far as I could on the block drain, so I picked up a 3/8 pipe tap today.  I stuck a 9/16 bit In the hole and tried to turn it with a wrench.  Once it bit into the remains of the plug fairly well, the plug started to turn further into the hole.  I got my largest easy out and backed the remains of the plug right out.  I chased the threads with the new tap, and I believe that little problem is taken care of.  I’ll run water through to flush out the shavings when it warms up outside, and be one step closer to putting it all back together.

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Tried to fix the threads in the neck of the manifold tonight.  Haven't been able to find a 1-1/2" NPT tap to borrow, so I tried making a thread chaser out of a fitting, and tapering off the threads on a piece of pipe.  No luck.  Then I noticed daylight through the bottom of the manifold.  There is at least one pin hole in the exhaust passages, so I suppose I'll be pulling the manifold off tomorrow to see how bad it is.  I've got a neighbor that's pretty handy with a torch and brazing rod, maybe it is patchable...

 

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those threads will clean up nicely if you sandblast them. not sure about the brazing though

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On 1/1/2018 at 6:49 AM, TN Hillbilly said:

Be careful with that brake cleaner. It doesn’t mix well with fire.

Brake Cleaner is very dangerous when exposed to heat Phosgene will kill you

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I have tried tapping those manifolds, no luck at all! All those years of exhaust blasting out have hardened the cast so a tap won't touch it,

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3 hours ago, jeeper61 said:

Brake Cleaner is very dangerous when exposed to heat Phosgene will kill you

Picture

Yikes!  Thanks for the reminder.

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I guess I'm a little behind, so here's what we've accomplished:

Manifold neck rethreaded and manifold reinstalled, with a pipe nipple and a muffler from Steiner.  I returned the stanley muffler I got at Tractor Supply, but to be honest I couldn't tell much difference in the sound.  The muffler from Steiner's looked better and has IH stamped in it.

The carb was rebuilt as well, may still have to reset the float height.

Last weekend we changed the oil and filter.  I don't think the filter housing has been off since is was painted, and that's been a while.

I decided to drain the transmission - got out 2/3 of a bucket of sludge / molasses / caramel like gunk.  Poured in a half bucket of cheap oil and had my son make laps around the yard for half an hour, then drained it again and filled with slightly less cheap universal tractor hydraulic oil from TSC.  Found a nice puddle under the end of the axle housing today.  

We replaced the oil pressure gauge and sensing line.  We get about 20 psi max, and it drops off as the oil warms up.

We also replaced the temp gauge, and somehow seem to have broken it.  The needle never moved while we were running it Saturday, and the upper hose did get fairly warm while we were playing with the tractor.

I made bushings for the steering column.  It took a lot of the play out of the steering, but the threads on the steering wheel shaft are worn out and the nut won't grab.  My son keeps pulling up on the steering wheel while mashing the brake pedals, and pulls the steering wheel off.  The shaft is worn at the universal by the bell housing, I think if I can tighten it up there the steering will be nice.

A few pictures, and maybe some questions at the end...

 

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Well, if you made it this far, I have a couple of questions - 

How difficult is it to change the axle seals?  There is a grease fitting there, will greasing the axle help the leak?

Any thoughts on how I may have damaged the temp gauge?  My son says it worked when we put it in, I can't remember.  The coolant was warm enough that the needle should have moved some Saturday, but all I saw was some vibration / jiggling.

What should the oil pressure be?

There is a fair amount of smoke from the breather on the valve cover, especially when climbing a hill at low throttle and the governor opens the throttle a bit.  What does that indicate?  worn valve guides?

That's enough for now - thanks for looking!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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That little hole in the exhaust manifold is supposed to be there, it's a water drain hole.

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12 hours ago, Adam - NC said:

I guess I'm a little behind, so here's what we've accomplished:

Manifold neck rethreaded and manifold reinstalled, with a pipe nipple and a muffler from Steiner.  I returned the stanley muffler I got at Tractor Supply, but to be honest I couldn't tell much difference in the sound.  The muffler from Steiner's looked better and has IH stamped in it.

The carb was rebuilt as well, may still have to reset the float height.

Last weekend we changed the oil and filter.  I don't think the filter housing has been off since is was painted, and that's been a while.

I decided to drain the transmission - got out 2/3 of a bucket of sludge / molasses / caramel like gunk.  Poured in a half bucket of cheap oil and had my son make laps around the yard for half an hour, then drained it again and filled with slightly less cheap universal tractor hydraulic oil from TSC.  Found a nice puddle under the end of the axle housing today.  

We replaced the oil pressure gauge and sensing line.  We get about 20 psi max, and it drops off as the oil warms up.

We also replaced the temp gauge, and somehow seem to have broken it.  The needle never moved while we were running it Saturday, and the upper hose did get fairly warm while we were playing with the tractor.

I made bushings for the steering column.  It took a lot of the play out of the steering, but the threads on the steering wheel shaft are worn out and the nut won't grab.  My son keeps pulling up on the steering wheel while mashing the brake pedals, and pulls the steering wheel off.  The shaft is worn at the universal by the bell housing, I think if I can tighten it up there the steering will be nice.

A few pictures, and maybe some questions at the end...

 

IMG_1915.thumb.JPG.9ce9cda1fd38c1d99e2e099a1d5afb0a.JPG

IMG_1948.thumb.JPG.80d936069cb99c110d07432421118fc7.JPG

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IMG_1957.thumb.JPG.6d5910973591addd5d85d50688ec5d03.JPG

 

Well, if you made it this far, I have a couple of questions - 

How difficult is it to change the axle seals?  There is a grease fitting there, will greasing the axle help the leak?

Any thoughts on how I may have damaged the temp gauge?  My son says it worked when we put it in, I can't remember.  The coolant was warm enough that the needle should have moved some Saturday, but all I saw was some vibration / jiggling.

What should the oil pressure be?

There is a fair amount of smoke from the breather on the valve cover, especially when climbing a hill at low throttle and the governor opens the throttle a bit.  What does that indicate?  worn valve guides?

That's enough for now - thanks for looking!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I restored a 240 a few years ago.  To change the Axel seals I had to remove the top plate of the transmission housing.  ( under the seat). because you will have to unhook the bull gears to allow the axels to slide out.

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OK, I'll have to get a manual.  I was hoping that I could change the seals without pulling the axles.

 

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Adam,  The axle seal for the oil on my 'C' is at the inside end of the axle and housing.  I checked CaseIH parts on line and looks like the 240 seal is on the inside also.  The axle and axle housing needs to come off to replace it but first the retainer on the inside end of the axle for the bull gear needs to be removed.  Retainer can possibly be removed if the pto is removed or best to remove top cover like lorenzo said.  Not something you can do in an afternoon.

My SM is sealed at the outside end where the grease fitting is and no inside seal listed.  So, may be worth a try to replace the outer one and see what happens.  May take care of your leak or at least slow it down.  This can be done without removing the axle.

Dennis

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22 hours ago, farmalldr said:

Adam,  The axle seal for the oil on my 'C' is at the inside end of the axle and housing.  I checked CaseIH parts on line and looks like the 240 seal is on the inside also.  The axle and axle housing needs to come off to replace it but first the retainer on the inside end of the axle for the bull gear needs to be removed.  Retainer can possibly be removed if the pto is removed or best to remove top cover like lorenzo said.  Not something you can do in an afternoon.

My SM is sealed at the outside end where the grease fitting is and no inside seal listed.  So, may be worth a try to replace the outer one and see what happens.  May take care of your leak or at least slow it down.  This can be done without removing the axle.

Dennis

I tried the    (Go in through the PTO trick)   but wasn't able to succeed.

Not saying it can't be done but it sure didn't work for me.

Nothing to loose by trying though.

Good luck on your project, that's a handy machine .

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What’s causing the excessive smoke coming up the push rod passage?

 

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This is a great read! 

Keep after her!

Love the WD also. Nice work. 

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Thanks Mark!

This thing is not a family tractor, so no sentimental attachment, but it is starting to grow on me.  I think I'll focus on the oil leaks and put the blow by issue on the back burner.  I had several good ideas suggested in another thread I put on the general forum regarding the blow by, so we'll see what time and patience will do for it.

 

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For fuel gauge and sending unit my 'go-to' guy is Jerry Trcka at EverGreen Restorations in Spooner, WI.  715/635-8629.  Very knowledgeable and super fast service!  His gauges and sending units need to be grounded.  Don't forget they also must be compatible; Rochester with Rochester, Stewart-Warner with Stewart-Warner, etc.

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On February 3, 2018 at 6:21 PM, Adam - NC said:

What’s causing the excessive smoke coming up the push rod passage?

 

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I was that the differential  oil you were draining ? That looked like the worst oil change ! 

Must have been original 

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Yep...  like spoiled molasses or something.

Now that it has clean oil in it, both axles leak.

 

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