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cat44

TD6 Carburetor help

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Just registered, Happy to find a blog where others suffer likewise!  :)      Have just purchased a TD6 with blade. It seems to have a carburetor problem. Where can I find information on the carb and parts to rebuild?  I was told it is a 1958.  The build info cannot be read. Thanks for any info.  Enjoyed reading sugarmaker's thread on his TD6.

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welcome to the sickness lol. jensales , binder books , or ebay will probably be your best bet for service manual , operators , and parts manuals. usually these old carbs just need a good cleaning being shure to blow out all the passages and lubing the linkages also there is a flapper in the intake manifold that opens for gas operation and closes for diesel that needs to be free as it is spring operated also in the front of the manifold there is a switch that kills the ignition while operating in diesel mode. linkage also closes needle valve in the carburator so engine wont run all the gas out of the tank while running on diesel. simple but complicated right what kind of problem do you have with your carburator? russ   

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Catt44,

Welcome to our world. Tight group here. Tell us what the carb is/ is not doing?  Are you getting gas to it? through it? I never have had mine off yet. Maybe I lucked out? I had fuel lines with junk in them. Sediment bowl needed removed and tank opening cleaned. Main point is make sure fuel is getting there first if you haven't already. Open the bottom carb drain to assure fuel flow. Just a reminder that you have to have the gas handle in the down position to get fuel flow. (I forgot this one time and almost had the carb off before I remembered):) Glad you enjoyed my TD6 encounter/adventure. Just hoping it helps someone a little! I am new to these machines so still learning too.

If I remember there are some well hidden nuts on the back of the carb holding it to the manifold. Probably why I did not get mine off yet!

BTW we need pictures of your TD6. What are your plans for it?

Regards,

 Chris

 

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Thanks, Russ and Chris. Appreciate the info.  I wanted to order a gasket set before pulling the carb.  We cleaned the tank, lines, and sediment bowl before attempting to start it. The machine is sitting where we bought it. It ran on gas for three or four minutes and quit. It took a little bit of cranking to get going, ran a little rough then smoothed out and quit. Still had gas in the tank. Owner told us it would need to be cleaned. Apparently the linkage runs from left side to right side through the engine. :(   And, yes, we found the nut behind the carb. The linkage is there. Hard to see what is needed to get it off. We thought we would do a little studying before going to far. Tried to find some info online, but could not.

Not having the tractor ID has kept me from buying manuals until I know I am getting the right ones. Any help here would be appreciated. Owner said it was a 1958. Not sure how he knew since there plate cannot be read.

Need to move a little dirt, clean out new trees springing up in my roads, and maybe crush some shale?  :)    My D8 is probably finished, so I won't be pushing trees too much anymore. We have a 2nd TD6 that needs some work. Hoping it is just the linkage going to one clutch. The other clutch works fine.

Again, thanks for the help.

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Welcome to the forum, quite a few of us on here have the TD6 and TD9 gas start units, and I hope you enjoy yours as much as I do.

I've only had my TD9 for a couple years, but wish I would have had it many years ago. Just can't seem to get enough of operating it, whether it's moving dirt or gravel, pushing over and piling trees....

If your TD6 was running good for a bit and then just quit, I would think there could still be some gunk in the fuel system somewhere and your fuel supply got blocked off, either before the carb or in the carb...

There should be a screen where the fuel line goes into your carb.. If you haven't had the line disconnected from the carb you might want to check that out..

Let us know how you make out, lots of knowledgeable people on this construction board, and very willing to help out if they can ...

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Thanks north.  Have you pulled your carb? Are the carbs the same on many of the TDs that are gas start?

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Cat,

 Yes North reminded me of that small inline screen just prior to the carb. I did have that little screen out/apart and cleaned it.

If your machine ran on gas once it will run again. Open the bottom of the carb and let it run out into a catch can for a while to be assured it is getting flow. There is also a line off the upper back of the carb that is like a vent tube. Not sure how important it is but mine had to be replaced.

Are you using the choke to start? They usually crank pretty slow by design.

They must be pretty bullet proof compared to other tractor carbs, because I haven't had to do much to this one.

Have you changed plugs and done a tune up on it? That may help it start better too.

Regards,

 Chris

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Cat,

 Almost forgot! WE need pictures!

regards,

 Chris

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14 hours ago, cat44 said:

Thanks north.  Have you pulled your carb? Are the carbs the same on many of the TDs that are gas start?

Yes, I had my carb off and cleaned it. Also checked the needle valve and the float settings while I had it apart. The float setting has to be quite precise according to my manual. I doubt the float would be your issue, as you say it ran quite well for 3 or 4 minutes.

I think most of these old gas starts probably have similar carbs. They are pretty basic, not a whole lot can go wrong with them.. and easy to work on. If you take it apart, be careful with the float, they are quite fragile and are easily damaged..

My carb did not have a screen at the fuel inlet. I installed an inline fuel filter between the small gas tank and the carb, as my tank had crud in it. Works real good now, but I did have to change the filter out once and empty the sediment bowl a few times when I first started using it, as despite cleaning and rinsing out the gas tank as best I could, there was still crud flaking off the inside walls. I'm told you can buy kit to put a new lining in your tank. I didn't do that, seems after I burned a few tanks of fuel the crud virtually disappeared, and the inline filter will catch any that gets past the sediment bowl.

I would definitely disconnect the fuel supply line at the carb, to see if you have gas getting to that point, and to check for a screen.

You say there was still gas in the tank, but if it was getting low, someone may have installed a riser in the bottom outlet to keep the gas from the very bottom of the tank, where the crud will rest, to get into your supply line.

Again, if you remove the supply line at the carb, you will know whether or not your issue is before the carb, if it is a fuel issue that you have. If there is no fuel coming to the carb, you either need more fuel in your tank or have a blockage somewhere..

Grant

 

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Thanks, Grant. When we first tried to start it, we had not paid for the tractor. I wanted to pull the carb, but the owner did not want us to mess around with it. He told me a story about how someone had damaged a vehicle when looking to buy it from him. He has a point. If we had lost a part from the carb, and did not buy it.......So, we paid him and had to leave it there since we could not load it and were out of time. He has been on a trip, so we have not been able to work on it yet.

Grant, does the linkage to the carb run through the engine? It appears to. The owner said he thought it did. He worked for IH. He told us before we came to look at it that the gas was having a problem and he thought it would need work on the carb.

Chris, will post a pic when we get to see it again. Who knows, maybe he selling it twice?  :)  I trust him, but it is sure getting harder to trust people.

 

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28 minutes ago, cat44 said:

Thanks, Grant. When we first tried to start it, we had not paid for the tractor. I wanted to pull the carb, but the owner did not want us to mess around with it. He told me a story about how someone had damaged a vehicle when looking to buy it from him. He has a point. If we had lost a part from the carb, and did not buy it.......So, we paid him and had to leave it there since we could not load it and were out of time. He has been on a trip, so we have not been able to work on it yet.

Grant, does the linkage to the carb run through the engine? It appears to. The owner said he thought it did. He worked for IH. He told us before we came to look at it that the gas was having a problem and he thought it would need work on the carb.

Chris, will post a pic when we get to see it again. Who knows, maybe he selling it twice?  :)  I trust him, but it is sure getting harder to trust people.

 

Yes, there is a linkage on the back side of the carburetor that connects to the shaft under the valve cover that opens and closes the starting valves ...

That linkage to the carb either allows or prevents gas getting to the intake manifold , depending on the position of the decompression lever.. 

image.jpg

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  • A very clever design.  I look forward to better understanding how the system converts to handle the high compression in the diesel engine. Handling the fuel switch over is one thing, handling the chamber volume with high compression is another. Thanks for the photo and the response. It looks like our carb. And, now that you explain the gas/diesel conversion, it makes sense why the linkage runs through the engine. Will follow your decision to add an inline fuel filter since the tank is so very old. With the "modern" gas we have today I imagine it on its own would mess things up pretty quick. I broke down and bought a battery operated blower, chain saw, hedge trimmer, and whipper snipper. Can't take the garbage gas we get in California. I don't imagine you folks suffer from such things in the clean air of Northern Canada.  :)

Again, thanks for your help, Grant.  A picture is worth a thousand words!

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Cat,

 Here is a picture of my carb side. Probably cant see much.

DSC01614.jpg

Regards,

 Chris

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The switchover from gas to diesel is very smooth if it is running decent in both modes.. 

If I have my diesel lever set about half throttle there is not even a huge change in the engine sound when I switch over.. makes me smile almost every time, it truly was a clever design.. Very effective in our climate, especially back when IH first started using it .. 

I just changed out the battery on my TD9. The old battery wouldn't hold a charge if parked for a few days. It amazed me how it would still fire up on gas when the battery was almost completely dead, and just barely turning the engine over.. and once you have it started on gas your off to the races.. 

I let the temp get up to around 140 degrees before I switch over, and it is very smooth. I could do it much sooner, probably even right away in  the summer, but this works good for me.. I know some switch over as soon as the temp guage needle shows some movement..

We have issues with our gasoline in Canada now too, and it tends to gum up fuel systems in equipment not used regularly.  I will sometimes put an additive like Seafoam in my equipment fuel tanks .. not sure if it helps, but they claim it does. There has been much discussion on fuel/oil additives on this forum, and you get many different views on whether they are effective or a waste of your money ..

Grant 

 

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In Canada we have a federal government mandated 2% methanol in pump gas. BC has a 5% methanol mandate for most pump gas.

Marine gas is exempt, and Chevron 94 octane premium has no alcohol. I have not seen any other pumps labeled "no methanol "

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  TD-6 carb should be the same as a MD wheel tractor. The have the same engine. Lots more MD's in the country. I once had two. One ran good and sold well the other was complete but did not have it running. Sold cheap. Also sold a complete parts WD-6. Salvage man bought it. Carbs changed along with the size of the engine. They are not all the same across the board. 

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59e6a75d24946_gasstartih007.thumb.jpg.b2683317277e43e584d112ccf1ba01cc.jpg

Pretty neat design ,   The larger volume compression chamber (for gasoline) is accomplished by simply opening an independent 

set of "starting valves" in the cylinder head. 1 per cylinder , The valves open to individual chambers containing the sparkplugs ,  

The regular intake and exhaust valves function as usual in this mode ,However the  intake manifold air supply path  is diverted 

through the carburetor ,

Here is some diagrams and pix showing some of the components for a TD-14,18

59e6a4f5a61a5_gasstartih004.thumb.jpg.32a38207fac1c2f81aba25c02204d17c.jpg59e6a50dd625d_gasstartih003.thumb.jpg.bc24c01ace604c8fec396d27176c7880.jpg59e6a535e3d05_gasstartih002.thumb.jpg.44e28f8cb7445b3eb3d46a70f8bfac20.jpg59e6a54f24577_gasstartih001.thumb.jpg.ef4bfb3b92d7b552b587e2fbb9046d7d.jpg59e6a57411962_gasstartih005.thumb.jpg.b823e204a916b336dc5246d8522f8f9a.jpg

 

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