Nelson W.

282D engine trouble in a 706 Farmall

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We are still chasing a good used head, looking at one in NC. I'll keep you posted and thanks to all for the advice.

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Hi all,

 

I went to the machine shop today to look at the cracks in the old head.I found that the cracks are only hairline cracks just inside of the small hole where the fuel is injected at the underside of the head. The tech. said that a small crack there is nothing to worry about sense there is no oil or water jackets anywhere near there. What do you folks thing about me reusing this head?

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I have done a few 282 heads with those little cracks, never had a problem with any of them.

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Hi all,

I just got back from working on the 706 with the D282 diesel engine. I received a reworked head on Monday and ran a tap in all the bolt holes on the head and cleaned them all out good. I installed the head and torqued the new head bolts in the correct pattern to 115ft lbs and torqued the injector assembly's to 25 ft lbs. I set the pump to TDC and it won't start. It will start with either but the dies and if it is out of fuel. Every so often it will start and run for about 6 seconds and then slows and stops as if it's out of fuel. I have adjusted the pump timing but that doesn't seem to help. I had a small fuel leak at the fuel tank in the return line and noticed that the return fitting in the tank has a "stack" with a small hole and seems to be a one way valve. It looks to be leaking. Could that have anything to do with the pump output? The other 706's have the DBGFC63120AJ pump but this one has a DBGFC63140AJ pump. Is the DBGFC63140AJ pump the correct pump for a 706 with the D282 engine?

 

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I have made sure that it has fuel as I disconnected the return line and it's pumping a good stream of fuel out of the fitting and the top of the pump.

 

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Check that valve at the tank where the return line is attached. If it is not allowing fuel to flow through it you will have the symptoms you describe.

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Cant remember exactly but more than once was running a similar engine in a combine. Had the same 6 second thing going on. There was a fitting on top of the pump in the return line that plugged and caused the problem. Must be a check for the return . It was a mystery cause everything was bled. I dont have a manual here but I would guess it would identify that fitting

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Cant remember exactly but more than once was running a similar engine in a combine. Had the same 6 second thing going on. There was a fitting on top of the pump in the return line that plugged and caused the problem. Must be a check for the return . It was a mystery cause everything was bled. I dont have a manual here but I would guess it would identify that fitting

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6 hours ago, steelfronts said:

Cant remember exactly but more than once was running a similar engine in a combine. Had the same 6 second thing going on. There was a fitting on top of the pump in the return line that plugged and caused the problem. Must be a check for the return . It was a mystery cause everything was bled. I dont have a manual here but I would guess it would identify that fitting

 

Nelson

      What Steelfronts is talking about is called,  the housing pressure cold advance.    If the check valve in this fitting is plugged with what looks  like coffee grounds then the sealastic ring that drives the weight retainer is failing or has failed completely.  You can clean the valve out with a seal pick and compressed air.   If the engine starts and runs, then that is your problem.   Next I would plan on removing the injection pump and having it rebuilt.  The weight retainer is running on metal to metal contact and it will self destruct.

GT&T 

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Hi all,

The IP pump on the 1965/1966 Farmall 706 with the D282 engine I have is DBGFC63140AJ.The other two 1963/1966 tractors we have has the DBGFC63120AJ pumps. Is the DBGFC63140AJ pump the correct one for the 65/66 tractor? The other two 706's tractors have the 20AJ pumps. I would like to know if the 40AJ is the correct pump for the 706.

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The only injection pump number I find in my book is the 631-20AE for a D-282 in a 706.   Only AJ of any kind was on a 503 and 403 combine.   The last four digits and letters are the applications number IH put on for particular machines .  Of course, my  book is almost as old as the tractor. 

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a replacement pump could have been used   see if it runs with that fitting out use open hose

check for other leaks

if it is a bad ring  send it to inj p on here or local  they can repair it to 706 specs  and would then so mark the pump

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Thanks for the reply everyone.

I did send the pump off to a local diesel shop that we have used several times in the past and have had good results from them. I'm sure they rebuilt the pump as per the specs for that pump and not for a 1965 706. As for the fitting at the pump, I disconnected the line at the pump and turned it over a few times and there is a good flow of fuel coming out of the overflow. I also replaced the fitting at the tank with a free flowing fitting and that didn't help either.I did  get a new 1/4 copper line and a new collar and put the original fitting back in the tank with no leaks. I called Hoober International here in VA. and they couldn't find anything about that pump either. I'm still waiting for a call back from Hoober from a old tractor tech. that has worked on these old tractors for years. I'll let you know what I find out.

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Hi all,

I'm back with an update. After replacing the head, and jetting another injector pump the 1966 D282 engine still wont start. I did notice after installing the other rebuilt injection pump, that when turning the flywheel manually with a pry bar, that the pump will turn and then stop and it looks like the idler gear will rise (crawl up the pump drive gear) and then drop with a clunk and then the pump will turn again. Is there some kind of a special gear between the crank gear and the IP drive gear that would let the injector pump stop turning and then start again? Please let me know what the IP drive train is doing with the pump stopping and starting.

Thanks,

Nelson

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Nelson, the gears should rotate freely without missing a beat (tooth) the pictures show how they are assembled.

IH D282 Injection pump gear.jpg

IH D282 Injection pump gears.jpg

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Thanks Louie,

The pictures are great and very helpful. I see that the idler gear is held on the front of the engine with a bolt, but what holds the IP gear from moving? I only see the pump shaft holding the pump gear in place. Is it possible the slop in the gear train is due to a bad bearing on the pump shaft. I ask this because I had the pump gear cover off with one bolt in the cover and I can move the pump gear up and down almost 1/2" by prying against the bolt with a screwdriver. It looks like when turning the flywheel, at certain points the pump gear will stop turning for a few degrees and the gear will seem to rise up while stopped and then will turn and fall back down. I fear that I'll never get the timing set and stable like that.

Thanks for any advice you can give.

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Did you pull the pump off with the shaft? The pump comes off leaving the shaft on the engine. Is the thrust button and thrust button spring installed. The pump gear should not move up and down. Items 25 (thrust button, part #304 716 R1) item 26 (thrust button spring, part #304 717 R1) must be in place. I can scan more of the installation and timing if needed.

Roosa Master parts breakdown.jpg

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Louie,

Yes, the pump was installed with the shaft installed in the pump. I watched the diesel tech. install the pump and set the timing. He isn't a IH tech. and he was the one who noticed that the pump was stopping and starting while I was turning the flywheel. He didn't know why it was doing that as he isn't a IH tech. but rather an experienced generic diesel tech. From the diagrams you sent me I can't tell what supports the pump gear and holds it in place. Is the pump shaft what holds the pump gear from moving (other than turning that is)?

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I'm not sure if it's the pump gear that is moving or the idler gear that is moving. Is it possible for the idler gear to be  what is broken and not the pump gear? Is there a bearing in the idler gear that could be broken?

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With not much experience with diesel like most of these rest on here, I hate to say it, but sounds like time to pull the front off, pull the cover and see what's going on, had a similar instance with my td8.  Wouldn't start, ran doggy, no power, timing "pump" marks were way off, retimed to specs, wouldn't run at all, after pulling front off, thinking it was gears, it ended up being a broken drift pin on the IP gear and it had spun numerous degrees. Possibly not your situation, but with gears moving, I think covers need to be removed to see the big picture here. And yes, idlers have bearings they spin on

 

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td9 is on it, time to pull the front cover, the idler does not have a bearing, it rides on a bushing. Another thing, did this engine come with a Roosa Master pump or did it have the IH RD pump originally?

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Sounds like the pilot tube in the pump is worn out. Didn't the pump shop replace it upon rebuild? That is an almost always automatically replaced part. It also sounds to me like the thrust spring and button are missing. They are what hold the pump shaft and gear back into the pump. Also sounds like an idler gear issue. 

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