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560 Hydraulic Control / Bypass Valve Rebuild?


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Hello, All-

Been a while since I posted about my 1959 Farmall 560. For the most part, she's been running great and I've not had any issues until recently. 

The hydraulics have been functional, but I knew it was only a matter of time before they would go south. Here's what's happened:

The hydraulic pump has always moaned/groaned/whined when the loader was being activated. (Both when the levers were being activated and at rest...or at engine idle) My first task after getting the tractor was to drain all fluids and fill with fresh. That was last year. The noise was better, but still very present. I had no issues with loader movement or strength.

Fast forward to one month ago. Let a neighbor borrow it to load some dirt into a trailer. After that work (three trailers full of dirt loaded), the main lift was painfully SLOW and the whining got louder when he returned it. All three hydraulic functions became slow: Bucket raise, bucket tilt forward, and fast-hitch raise. Lowering all three seemed to be a normal speed AND strong, however. I could actually lift the front of the tractor by tilting the bucket down, then pushing on the ground with the bucket. 

I figured that exercise just killed an already weakened hydraulic pump so I ordered a new 12 GPM unit and installed it over the weekend. Wound up draining 10 gallons of fluid and replaced again with new.

Got it all buttoned up but the whining was still there when I started the tractor. Bucket would not lift very well, though it WAS moving about an inch every 5 seconds. I thought it might have been some air in the line or pump, so I cycled the bucket up and down a few times. All the while, it was still a-singing its whining song.

So I've eliminated the pump. I've read in some forums that this could be the control valve or a leaking bypass valve. I can't find schematics of this/these anywhere for a reference. Is this the bank of three valves toward the bottom of the "dashboard" on the tractor? Am I going to need to take that entire assembly off the tractor to find the bypass valving? Don't want to sound ignorant, but I've not dealt much with hydraulics.

Also, does someone make a valve rebuild kit with all of the necessary o-rings and other seals?

Thanks, in advance, for your thoughts and recommendations. Any help is appreciated.

Attached is a photo of the old gal with Dad's antique disc harrows. (Literally pulled from the woods...where the front set had settled in the earth up to the axles)58d97b63220aa_560andHarrows.jpg.eb9c90d1b28fabf7e5c30d699370e1bf.jpg

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Found the schematics through the Case IH online parts store. I think I will get to ordering some O-rings and gaskets and just go through the valves and replace any/all o-rings that are compromised or worn.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Spent quite a bit of time this weekend with the control valve/safety valve assemblies. I am replacing all of the o-rings between the valves and through the system. One issue I ran into was the o-ring for the regulator valve piston.

Per the regulator and safety valve schematic, detail #4 is part # 352024R2, described as O-RING, 0.551" ID x 0.07" Width. That converts to a #15 o-ring, and is what I ordered online through an o-ring supplier. (I cross-referenced all of the o-rings to the standard o-ring sizes...then ordered on line. Spent about $10 for all of them...even with minimum orders of 9 to 13 o-rings per size...I saved a bundle) What I discovered after removing the piston is the o-ring I ordered did NOT match that schematic description.

Turns out the 352024R2 converts to a #212 o-ring, which is 7/8" ID x 1 1/8" OD x 1/8" thick.

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That might have been part of the problem. This screen from the regulator/safety valve was catching lots of shrapnel. I hope this was from the old pump! 

Put the valves back together and on the tractor. Started it up and no more howling. Loader is working again. 

20170410_175601.jpg

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  • 3 years later...
On ‎5‎/‎31‎/‎2020 at 10:56 PM, Terry hemmer said:

Where is that screen?

The cover that he has in the picture is located down by you left foot inside the outer plate. The cover can be taken off by using two longer bolts and going back and forth until the large spring is released. Afterwards the screen is behind the orifice  using a large screw drive to unscrew. Screen can be plugged. Orifice plugged etc. I use furnace drills  to clean the orifice hole.

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  • 1 year later...

I bought the gasket at Case IH. Get down to the block and take two bolts out diagonally. Get bolts that are 1/2 to 3/4 inch longer and put them in the two empty holes. Then take out the other two and loosen up the longer ones. I think I did it in two steps. Once apart, gently pull out the guts making sure you keep the parts in the correct order--pictures help. The screen to clean is under what looks like a very large flat blade screw. Unscrew it and clean. If there is still a little steel ball in the end, remove and throw away. Hopefully the screen does not fall apart when removing. I used furnace drills from a hardware store to clean the small hole. If I remember correctly is is around .040.

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