njtool 0 Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Im restoring a piece of machinery and I sandblasted all the metal, however, the sandblasting didn't remove the rust from tiny pits in the metal. I am worried that if I prime and paint it wont last long. What is the best product to convert or neutralize the rust before prime and paint? Is citric acid good enough or is there another product? Whats the best way to neutralize the citric acid or other product after treatment? Should it be sandblasted after rust treatment to get rid of any small particles? Suggestions would be appreciated. I don't want to put all this work in just to have the rust growing under the paint, ruining the finish and frustrating me. Thanks for your help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
njtool 0 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Here is a pic of what Im dealing with. Lots of tiny spider rust spots. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IHDanielBoone 0 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Rust is like cancer keep blasting till its all gone then epoxy prime your parts as soon as your done blasting or those pits will rust back up fast.. sometimes just over night depending on conditions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
njtool 0 Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Thanks, I tried to keep blasting but I cant seem to get all of it. There is way too much metal to spend hours and hours trying to blast it all off. It seems like the sand is to course to get into the fine grooves of rust. I know its like cancer which Is why I blasted in the first place, but I cant get it all clean to my satisfaction. There are pieces that are way worse than the pics, lots of rust blooms Ive used citric acid in the past, and I know there are other products that convert rust. I was wondering what other people have used and the success people have had. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IHDanielBoone 0 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 3 minutes ago, njtool said: Thanks, I tried to keep blasting but I cant seem to get all of it. There is way too much metal to spend hours and hours trying to blast it all off. It seems like the sand is to course to get into the fine grooves of rust. I know its like cancer which Is why I blasted in the first place, but I cant get it all clean to my satisfaction. There are pieces that are way worse than the pics, lots of rust blooms Ive used citric acid in the past, and I know there are other products that convert rust. I was wondering what other people have used and the success people have had. I don't think its the sand it almost sounds more like you don't have enough air pressure, it should clean those pits up fairly quick. I know the Eastwood Company has good reviews on the rust converter they sell but ive never tried any of it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
njtool 0 Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 I could always use more air pressure. Ive blasted a lot of metal but this is the first time ive encountered this many rust blooms. It seems like the rust started under the paint and had 34 years to bloom under the paint. The paint and rust cleaned up easy, but these blooms seem to be little fissures in the metal that's holding onto rust. I will look up eastwoods rust converter. Thank you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
65806 173 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 I used some rust killing stuff that I bought at napa in Alaska. It was used on barges to stop it from rusting under the new paint. Cant for the life of me remember the name but your local napa can probably find it. Seems like it was a cleaner than wash it and than a primer. Worked good on a piece of equipment we had that kept rusting under new paint reguardless of how good we sanded it. Sorrymy memorry isn't very good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lorenzo 13,343 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 8 hours ago, 65806 said: I used some rust killing stuff that I bought at napa in Alaska. It was used on barges to stop it from rusting under the new paint. Cant for the life of me remember the name but your local napa can probably find it. Seems like it was a cleaner than wash it and than a primer. Worked good on a piece of equipment we had that kept rusting under new paint reguardless of how good we sanded it. Sorrymy memorry isn't very good. As silly as it sounds. Navel Jelly works. No, not from your belly button. It's actually a gel that you smear on and it's supposed to neutralize the rust. Some old time auto body men swear by it. 3c10e3b0-e659-4884-a93f-83b5cfb0b930_1.3b5d9e2f531a187f917829143ae55019.jpeg http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_naval/overview/Loctite-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevingweq 159 Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Ospho Skybrite would be my choice on big areas of light rust , it is water thin ,applies super easy ,available at most hardware stores check reviews etc at amazon Amazon.com: Skyco Ospho Surface Prep: Automotive Skybryte Skybryte : Gal Rust Primer (Pack of 4 ) - Tools - Painting & Supplies - Primer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
farmalldr 80 Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Thanks for the info guys, I'm in the market also. Dennis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rawleigh99 735 Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Evaporust is the best I have found: http://www.evapo-rust.com/ It really works!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
njtool 0 Posted March 6, 2017 Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 Ive used evaporust in the past but ive never painted over it. And ive only soaked things in it, does it work if its brushed on? Or does it have to be submerged? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rawleigh99 735 Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 I think it just has to be kept wet with a spray bottle or a soaked rag or sponge. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tanker916 4 Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 I have used metal rescue with great results. Can be found at Home Depot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Strawboss 0 Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 I had the same problem with a tractor I restored. I used a product called "Rust Dead". It is a liquid that comes in a 2 liter bottle that I got at the local International house. You just wipe it on the rust with a rag and it turns it into a very durable primer and it works REALLY GOOD and it is only 20 bucks so its pretty cheap. I hope this helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
560Dennis 1,256 Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 On February 23, 2017 at 8:35 PM, IHDanielBoone said: Rust is like cancer keep blasting till its all gone then epoxy prime your parts as soon as your done blasting or those pits will rust back up fast.. sometimes just over night depending on conditions. Yep , especially in Ohio on humid days , make you want to cry, in fact it's ok ,all that work ! There is a acid suface prep all that DuPont made it works great ,there others that are equivalent. Very hard work isn't it? But maybe a fill and sand primer , spot putty is for the thin stuff ,I didn't realize it only a primer. The pits are P the pits don't know what to say best Quote Link to post Share on other sites
farmallmd 0 Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 On 2/24/2017 at 7:57 AM, lorenzo said: As silly as it sounds. Navel Jelly works. No, not from your belly button. It's actually a gel that you smear on and it's supposed to neutralize the rust. Some old time auto body men swear by it. 3c10e3b0-e659-4884-a93f-83b5cfb0b930_1.3b5d9e2f531a187f917829143ae55019.jpeg http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_naval/overview/Loctite-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver.htm X2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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