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I was recently looking for an older small diesel tractor to do some garden tilling, blow some snow, and just other general work around the property. I stumbled upon a IH 276. It's just the size I was looking for, would run and drive with no smoking from the engine. The gears crap ok, PTO, 3PH all seemed to work. Body needs some freshening up, and a few little hydraulic leaks etc, but for $1000 I was sold!

I plan on fixing things up over the winter and having it ready for use in the spring. The reason I call it a resto-mod is because, while I do want to restore it, I will update a few things such as an alternator, LED lights, Bosch glow plugs etc. just to make it a little more user friendly. I'm currently on the hunt for a service manual, and a good source for parts.

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Welcome to the forum.  Looks like a fun project.  I can't help on the manuals but keep us posted on your progress with it.

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Your 276 is identical to any British Build, B414, 434 or 444. Your 3 point hitch may be  either the B275 style with no draft control on 3rd link or like B414etc with top link sensing - get your self a I & T manual from TSC or any manual print source, or call and I can send you one from Ontario. Here's a pic of our 276 gas and woods mower. I delivered this tractor brand new to the village of Tavistock, now some 40 years later we own it.

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I started getting the old wires out, since most were cut anyway. Even the starter had to be jumped with a screwdriver. Also got started removing 3 pt hitch arms and rear fenders so I could works on getting brake pedals unseized and likely put new brakes on as well. The rear work light looked like it's probably original, still has the glass lens, sadly it is cracked though.

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Hi R cambell you have a very usable tractor there built in Bradford UK first appeared in 1960 as B275 various fuel upgrades over the years and new tinwork around 1965 turning it into B276 basicaly same tractor built for 20 years ending up in 484 model mechanical parts on this side of pond very available including very well made aftermarket parts.

Your tractor has the earlier lift design with no draft control to be honest on these tractors your 3 point is the best much better wheel grip with this system than with the draft control system depth control on this system is controled by the 4" dia knob right front of housing should have an arrow on it and the words deeper.

How is the steering can have a bit of slop in steering box easily fixed but time comsuming involves removing dash and fuel tank once there box is very simple there is a race of balls top and bottom of worm gear dirt and water wear these over years easily replaced  along with seal on out going shaft fresh gear oil and will steer great yous may be ok if kept under cover but gets neglegted because of time to access.

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The steering is actually pretty tight. Even the tie rod ends are tight except for one. My immediate plans are to fix a leak in hydraulic pump caused by a crap brazing job, replace all fluids and filters, rewire lights and starter and add Bosch glow plugs. After all that I'm going to look at some body work, maybe try for new fenders and fix up some sloppy joint in the 3pt arms. My rear rimes have some small dust hole so may try to find some replacements. It really doesn't need much to be functional, but i want it to run and look like new!

 

Would love to be able to find parts or parts tractor without having to order online, but that's not the end of the world I guess.

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Got a rear wheel off today so I could start working on the brakes. I found out why they were seized, the boot was torn, and there had been water in the housing. I flipped it over on the concrete and a good bit of crud came out of it. Also got a hose made up to replace the pipe that was leaking hydraulic fluid due to a crappy brazing job.

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I finally got the brake pedals freed up so I can move them up and down. Also the left side brakes don't seem to be seized like the right side. The grease zerks came out easily, but none would take an grease, so I suppose that explains why everything was seized up. Does anyone know if the brake pedals just slide off? I took off the snap ring and washer, and I assumed that once freed off I can remove them by sliding them off the shaft?

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The right pedal will slide off with snap ring removed, may need a little penetrating oil and a little hammering, and might need to be heated, if they were seldom greased, the left one is keyed to the cross shaft, but with the same treatment should slide off.

Carl

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Took a bit of hammering, and lots of penetrant, but got the park brake arm off, and the right pedal. I will clean it all up with a wire brush, get some new grease zerks in there and it should be good. I also took the right side rear wheel and fender off for easier access, so now the whole back of the tractor is on stands. I'll get some more pics soon.

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I also got the brake actuators apart. The right side one is pretty rough, and several of the balls looked pitted. The left side has better balls, but somebody definitely put grease in there at one point, and it's pretty gunked up. Here's a pic of the right side which is worse than the left.

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  • 5 months later...

Been a while since my last update, but I've been getting things done, I swear! haha

I had gotten brand new rear rims for the old girl, and mounted the original dishes into them. Got new tubes as well, but used the tires that were on it for now.

Got my brakes cleaned up, new actuator balls, and new boots fitted into the housing.

Also, got a new internally regulated alternator for it. It's an alternator off an L-series Kubota. Had to weld a new mount to the existing bracket, but looks decent I think.

Also put on new fuel filters.

Got Bosch glow plugs for it as well.

Also, got new front tubes and front tires.

Gonna need to be using her for work soon, so mostly just electrical left to do. Hopefully she works well!!

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Looks like progress.  Nice to see

 

thanks for sharing

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  • 1 month later...

On the brakes:
Don't be tempted to oil/grease those balls or any of the insides of the brake units.  Those disc brakes are supposed to operate 'dry'.

On my B414, 434 and 444 I knew when the brakes were due for a 'blowout' when I stomped on the brake pedal and I didn't hear the 'clack' of those disc and balls interacting. 

And that didn't happen every 2 weeks, more than 2 years...
 

My son had a Mahindra DI-25  (1992 model) here in South Africa:  A clone by Mahindra of the old Doncaster IH's but with a 2 cyl direct injection, 25HP  engine, and a Bosch type injector pump.

When he got it I had to 'test' it for him, and it was as if I hadn't been off an IH for 34 years...  The very same layout, only with metric fasteners instead of imperial fasteners.

 

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