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Hi all

New to the site so please be gentle if I ask dumb questions, My history is Aussie Chrysler based and I have come to realise I am clueless with international product  

I have just purchased what I believe to be an Australian  67 C1100 Panel van 281 straight 6 .---Unconfirmed and happy to take advice

It runs and drives but is currently without brakes  

I wont start the project for several weeks yet but a full sympathetic\improved  Resto is the current plan but may change if the body work becomes too nasty and then go down the rat path.

I am hoping to start with a service manual .If any one can assist in pointing me in the right direction to find one be it electronic or hard copy  I would appreciate it .Also looking for information on finding vin and serial numbers on both motor and van ,both are currently filthy but a heads up on where to start looking  would be great.

Also any info on wheel choices. Do any other rims fit it ? I will have to change all tyres so I was thinking of purchasing rims and tyres if possible if any other rims fit it ?

I have a thousand other questions and would also like to see some pics of others restored for reference if possible

Photo attached as purchased .    

c1100 smaller.jpg

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It looks like you have a steel body. they came in fibreglass and steel. glass cracks steel rusts. both are beatable. C1100 came out 2wd only and has 4w disc brakes standard. they are twin piston (opposed) callipers. the biggest safety problem is single circuit brakes. I noted you said Chrysler background. Chrysler made the bodies for Dodge AT4 and D5N and Inters. Our USA friends will have noticed the different guards(fenders) and bonnet(hood). You can read the details of our C1300 'our truck'  on page 2 this forum. C1100s are 5 stud of a common pattern. you should be able to get whatever wheel tyre combination you want. just watch out for load ratings. For the brakes I fitted a Pedal box for a Dodge D5N, fabricated a replacement heavy flat plate firewall mount and fitted a Falcon double diaphragm (XB) booster and a F350 twin circuit master. Chassis number should be forward on the left rail. Provenance would help as you need date of birth in most states for rego and your panel-van like our 4x4 is pre-compliance plate and Qld (where are you?) transport is as unhelpful as you can get. 281 cu in is quite torquey. The ACCO had 2 single carbs and twin headers a bit like an x2 Holden. I have an original  2 barrel and the black diamond had a 4BBL. All it did was drink fuel. I only know the black diamond 2nd hand. The diff is probably Dana 44. many ratios available and LSD or auto softlocker. original LSD (optional) might be a bit hard to get or worn out but lockrite make an autolocker to suit.  I haven't managed to put up photos of our ute yet but Im going to try to attach a video link

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Thanks for the well wishes and to Tim for the advise and details

All this info is being stored for reference as its as close as I can get to a repair manual at the moment  

I am in Sydney and I am sure that the NSW roads will be as un helpful as I have no provenance and very little info apart from a sellers name

yes it is Steele body and already has a remote booster attached

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See if seller has old rego number. the rego details from previous rego would be proof of build year. You could join the Historic Commercial Vehicle club Australia (HCVA). By the look of the bonnet emblem you have the year about right. The inline booster should be a VH40 with (I think) a 5/8" bore bigger than the standard VH40 booster off early Holden/Falcon. If you have checked my other posts you will see I've had a bit to say about steering boxes. This shouldn't be a problem to you as your Inter is a lot lighter on its steering loads. your front spring swing shackle bushes are more than likely flogged out. They are good bronze bushes but bad shackle plates. I used after market greaseable Toyota ones and reamed the bushes up to the metric size. You have to end shim the pins. They are much sturdier than original. (purists will shudder).    I doubled up the shackle plates but with a 4x2 you could use washers. There is a place in Toowoomba called Fleet parts that deals in this era. What you have is the neaest thing in auz to a travelall. Ill keep an eye on this and will help if I can. (PS One of our other cars is a CM Chrysler Regal 265 4BBL torqueflight 727)

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Tim thanks again for more info

I spent the weekend taking out the back wooden floor and degreasing the motor

Yoy are right about the shackle bushes all the way around .now all I need to do is remove most of the farm clay from the underbody before I can start to look at the brakes .I took off some of the mud that was making the shape off a back calliper to find it wasn't even there.I will check out fleet parts to see what they have thanks  again

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That is one cool project ,  :)       I have a 67 Travelall that is getting tinkered with , 1967 Travelall More like it !!! - Page 10 - IH Trucks - Red Power Magazine Community

There is a few online manuals available for us trucks ( sorry I don't know the similarities or differences ) gangster ih manuals

Good luck looking forward to watching !!

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Kevin

you are a champion

What a find

I need to work out if I more closly align to A or B ranges but I can see that most are very close and the file on the 282 motor will get me out of or into trouble one o the other  

Thankyou so much I should be able to get by using the info you supplied on ganster

I will send some more pics soon

Need to work out how to get the pictures on easy

your travelall work looks great

Cheers

Craig

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Canadian IH's use the same bolt pattern wheels as Dodge and Ford cars (Scouts were bigger, like Ford pickups, 4X4 IH's were too I think.) You never know what other countries did, though.

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I wish you the best on this , I'm here for moral support , keep going , ????????

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  • 2 weeks later...

photo IMG_1692_zpsesprquho.jpgphoto IMG_1676_zps6d50n3xy.jpgphoto IMG_1690_zpsdykgfsqx.jpg

Well the grass may not be growing under my feet but the front lawn looks a treat .It has been well and truly top soiled with Victorian clay and critter bones

does any one have any hints on removing solid rear disc rotors, the fronts were nice and greased the passenger side back was removed with a slide hammer but the drivers side rear will not budge ,I have been at it for days with wd40  lubricant and a slide hammers and have even tried a couple of lazy taps with a 10 pound sledge hammer but nothing .i do not have access to an oxy torch so if any one has any tricks let me know

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11 hours ago, intervan said:

any hints on removing solid rear disc rotors

Could you post some pix of your whoa and go setup ?    Factory disc brakes on old IH's does not compute in the States

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Kevin

See attached four factory discs

Actually I am cheating one of them is off what we know here is a valiant VE you have them as darts I think

One was missing when I got it

however this evening I have found out that the pistons are smaller so back to the drawing board

I am going to upgrade the fronts to new ventilated rotors and calipers  and salvage the best 2  out of the 4 for the rear

I am just now trying to find and upgrade kit with the correct stud pattern

photo IMG_1829_zps4gus6bgf.jpg
 
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some of those dana diffs held the axles in with slide on clips into a groove( like a circlip groove) on the inner end of the axle rather than the more usual backplate bolts. It will still have backplate bolts to hold the calliper  . Remove final drive cover. turn over till you can see inside the differential carrier. if it has the circular clips you can remove axle and disc complete and get it pressed. what you have to do is ( turn over the diff again) remove the sun gear shaft lock pin then the shaft. The axle from the wheel end should push in about 1/4" and the clip can be removed from the inner end of axle. Sometimes when you push the axle in the c shaped clip falls off and into the diff. A pencil magnet helps there.

Measure the diameter of Valiant calliper piston and the C1100 piston. Calculate area. 22/7 x radius x radius. If the percentage is not too great get another Valiant calliper. The C1100 was meant to carry load. if  you are mostly travelling light there will be less tendancy to lock rears and you will have a higher pedal

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  • 2 weeks later...

I ran a US 69 1100D Travelal from 69 until 89.

It was a 4X4 with a v304 T98A1, Dana 44's front and rear, a NP TC, drum brakes only power was steering and brakes (vacuum boaster)

All US Travelals I have seen and ours was a 4 door. All steel body. 

So down under they were 2 door, wooden floored with 4 wheel disk brakes and a truck motor.  What is the transmission?

The 69 1100D truck had 15", 5 on 5.5 wheels, believe that changed from  C to D line.

How much of the 67 was Metric?

I no longer have anything IH from the old days except a 464 diesel utility tractor.

I should have pictures of our 69 4X4, but they would be slides that I never converted to video.

Good luck with your project.

 

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  • 4 months later...

Hello all

As most of you are freezing over there and we are sweating so not much been happening on the resto front 

Have now got the front end all pulled down and working through the bits slowly, Front springs have been reset and lowed 2 inches  ,shocks still to b e chosen ,still working on brakes ,now have ventilated ford arrangements that are close with a bit of machining . a lot of pressing in and honing of bits getting done.  

On an off shoot note  i will be traveling to the states in May and June is there any inter related shows or things that i should put on the itinerary to look at whilst there . the plan at this point is to start in LA drive to San Fran fly to NY and then make our way back to LA  by some means yet to be decided time depending mostly driving if possible 

 

Cheers

Craig

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28th Red Power Roundup @ Des Moines , Iowa  ....6/15-17, 2017.

Madison , WI ....WI State Historical Society- IHC & McCormick Archives.... lots of IH info.

Farmall Land USA...Avoca, Iowa..95 miles west of Des Moines.

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