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Found 9 results

  1. Even though my 1942 W4 has electric start capabilities, I'd like to hear YOUR recipe for hand (crank) starting your H or 4-series McCormick. I'd just like to be able to develop a method that works reliably for cold start specifically. Most likely you have a different recipe for warm start too. I'd like that also. I THINK there's probably some sage advice for where to set the governor control, choke, how many 'pulls' ( or lifts) and then turn on the mag for one more pull. What procedure always seems to work for you? Thanks,
  2. dwillis4

    Steering Arms on W Series

    I need to remove the Steering Arms from the W-4 and like most old assemblies they are resistant. In case I don't have the part name right, in the image you can see the tie rod passing under the tub to the other side. The 'arm' I'm trying to remove is between the tie rod end and the steering pivot point. This arm is almost vertical in the photo. I have removed the nut on top and put a Gear Puller on it with some Liquid Wrench is soaking into it now. Is this a tapered connection or straight? The key and keyway are easily visible. What is the right way to get it apart? I've also been tapping around it with a ball-peen hammer to try and jar it a but. There is really no way to pry up from the bottom because of slanted surfaces. I'm reluctant to jack up the axle and just hammer on the top where the nut goes - unless that is how you do it. Thanks a bunch!
  3. I have been carrying a nagging question for some time and it's time to unload it. I have a belt pulley on my early W-4 and the headlight brackets are mounted on the sides of the cast tub rather than on the sides of the grille. (Reference the 1941 W-4 photo owned by o121937, a member of this forum.) It just seems to me that the right headlight would be smack in the way of the pulley belt ! What am I missing? ...or would they (owners of long ago) just move the light to Orchard-mounting-position?? (the holes for that ARE under there) (Reference the image of the I-4, sorry I don't know who owns it) Maybe the belt would droop enough to go under the light bracket?? Send the Experts please !
  4. OK, let's say you have a nice little project that needs some light mechanical work, along with some gaskets, seals, etc. to stop the leaks and no *known* bearing issues. Also on the list is a full repaint - red AND silver. There are no serious sheet metal issues and no missing parts. It may well be that the actual leaky seals are limited to the torque tube and rear axles. Regardless, it boils down to two activities - Repairing, and Painting. So here is the question - Would you recommend having the repair work done at one shop and the paint work done later at another shop -OR- would you recommend having the repair and paint done together at one time? It would seem to me that there could be some savings from not having to take it apart twice, BUT there may also be very little 'redundant work' between the two shops if the work is separated. I'm looking for un-biased answers and that's why I'm asking you. What would YOU do? (My shop is set up for WOODworking, and I have no deep IH repair experience)
  5. dwillis4

    "Front Hitch" ??

    Reading one of the decals on the back of a McCormick-Dearing W-4 it says something similar to 'Do not attach any load to the tractor except to the Drawbar or Front Hitch.' Hmmm ... Front Hitch ? So, it got me on a quest. I grabbed my W-4, O-4, OS-4 parts manual ( a VERY valuable asset ! ) and went all through the Chassis and the Attachments sections. I only believe I'm looking for something that would be located in the front bolster ( ref the circled area ). Checking out a bunch of online images I find another example. It's a Super W-4 and shows a plate attached to the bottom of the front axle. Did the factory do that? The burning question - What is the Front Hitch?? What did the factory supply?? Looking at my 1942 W-4, I have a ring on a pivot rod mounted under there. Is it factory original or a workbench creation? Thank you.
  6. Thank you and kudo to 'chadd' and 'Doctor Evil' for their recommendations on hydraulic fluid ! (Previous post - "Hydraulic fluid for M&W Live Pump") Now, on to the next step - Once I get the live M&W hydraulic system reassembled, how do I get all of the air out of it? (distributor drive pump, valves, tank, lines, and coupling hoses) I happen to have an extra hose that could be connected between the two rear couplings, if that would help. Thanks for sharing your expertise !
  7. Reading the Operators Manual for the W-4 and we have a chart "Operating Pressure for Low-Pressure Tractor Tires" Pertaining to the rear tires: The sub-heading is "Minimum Inflation Pressure, 4 and 6 Ply Tires" The next line is " 4, 5, 6, 7 Duals ...... 20 psi" Next line is " All Other Sizes ....... 12 psi" followed by more sub-headings and more data. WHAT does "4, 5, 6, 7 Duals" mean?!?
  8. My project for the inevitable cold Canadian winter ahead of me is to inspect and repair as needed the cylinder head and valves for my W4. I found a few things upon my initial inspection that worry me a bit. I found a hairline crack between cylinder 1 & 2 extending from the water jacket as shown in attached pic. This is not a performance build so I'm hoping this will be ok but advice from those of you who've rebuilt these before would be appreciated. I found 1 burnt exhaust valve on cylinder 4. It's cracked pretty good and will need replacing along with the guide. When I started removing all the valves, they all (aside from the cracked valve) appeared to have a nice shiny face so it looks like they're seating properly. However, I did think the valve margin was quite small. They apprear to have been ground once in the past as well because there's a noticable ridge on the valve face. My service manual only mentions valve length and stem diameter so I don't know what the valve specs are. If someone knows valve specs for an H or W4 (gas) I'd sure appreciate the info.
  9. Roschro

    C152 cylinder head stud sleeves

    On the C152 cylinder head for an H or W4 there are several cylinder head studs that go though the water jacket. These studs go through a sleeve in the water jacket. I noticed today on my W4's cylinder head that one of these sleeves has a hole corroded through it. So if I rebuild the head as is, my brand new studs will be exposed to the engine coolant. Which I figure is the reason this stud was so hard to remove that it broke! Does anyone know if these sleeves can be pushed out? Are there replacements?