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Found 5 results

  1. I see many folks have had the bad luck with finding heads cracked for the 9 series motors. Does anyone have a set of valves that are in good condition left over from a cracked head? Springs and keepers would be nice too if available. Thanks!
  2. Hi I have an IH 1066 with a very sick DT436 engine. I am not an experienced mechanic and have never rebuilt an engine before but always wanted to try. I am in the process of doing an inframe rebuild. Sleeve seals gone, main and rod bearings worn out, pistons have galling (piston collapse), wrist pins good, bearing journals mic no more than 1.7 thousands out of round. So I have ordered an inframe kit. Head and valves looked good but I gave them a light lap and it appears lash was out a little. When I pulled out the head valves though I noted that the plastic oil shields had more or less come apart. Dealer wants $80 for a new set. Can some one tell me how critical these oil shields are and whether I can do without them? Thank you
  3. So my grandfather purchased a 1945 crawler and he has tried to get it running. Problem being he cant see well and can only talk people through it. He operated one in the late 40's but never had one tore down so his knowledge on it is limited. I purchased a couple of manuals for it and we started from there. The engine turns well but wont fire. The second and third starting valves are stuck in the open position which I don't think should be a problem when starting on gas if it fires, but will be a problem when switching over to diesel. Any tips on freeing up these valves without taking apart the head or is that the only way. I am not very familiar with these engines so any other advice would be appreciated. thanks.
  4. Long story short, I had my 113 in my B rebuilt in a machine shop that is high volume and does reputable work. They left the push rods out because I was going to try and find another valve train assembly off of another B that a friend of mine had. I found one, took it off and brought it home, put the push rods in- numbered and re-installed in trhe same order they came out- and this is the result. Are the gaps the result of my not having turned the crankshaft enough, thus creating rhe gaps between the tops of the push rods and the cups on the tappets? I grew up with Moline equipment and never worked in IH tractors until recently. Anybody have any ideas? I have other questions about timing marks on timing gear and governor, but I'll save that for another posting. Any help is most welcome and appreciated.
  5. So I had my 113 engine rebuilt by a machine shop. I get it back and the pushrods are not in it, but I put them in once I got it back to my shop and on the engine stand: I say that because the bar in my old valve train was worn in several places so I picked up one in very good shape at a salvage yard. I get the pushrods in and down into their seats and then put the valve train/rocker arm assembly on and I'm confused: there are gaps of up to 3/4" between the head of the pushrod and the cup in the rocker arms. Do I need to turn the crank until each pushrod comes up to the cup of the arm and then adjust each one? I've never had to fool with pushrods and rocker arms before. Anyone with some grandfatherly-type advice please feel free to comment. I've got a service manual and gauges to set the valves once I figure out what it going on with the rods. Also, do I have to take the timing gear off to locate timing marks on the internal gears or are all of the markings on the flywheel? Like I said, this engine has been completely rebuilt and I have had the clutch, flywheel & ring gear off, had a new pressure plate built, and put a new throwout bearing in but that wouldn't mess up the timing marks on the flywheel, would it? My dad is not a Farmall guy and there's not many around that I can go to with help on this project. Thanks in advance for your time and input.
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