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Found 4 results

  1. Hi All, I have been following this forum for quite some time now (it has been extremely helpful!) as I work on my 1950ish td6 crawler. I have finally become a member so I figured I would share my experience in case it will be of help to anyone else. This crawler was purchased by my great grandpa (I am only 22) for use on his tree farm. He had plans for some sort of hydraulic lift in the front of the crawler that would grab small trees and lift them vertically to be placed in new locations, however it was never completed. The crawler had been sitting for maybe 10 years before it was moved just a few feet to park it in a new location by my dad. Since then it had been sitting 10+ more years (tarped) before I took interest in it. My first task was to get the crawler started on gas. It had the fuel tank relined and carb cleaned but would not start. Long story short, the magneto timing was 180 degrees off meaning it was trying to fire in the intake stroke. With that fixed, it fired right up on gas. I bled the diesel system and it switched over no problem. One of the reasons it had been sitting without use was that the main engine clutch was frozen solid and always engaged. I was able to find a replacement clutch disc online and pull/replace/clean the clutch and flywheel etc. Then the clutch required some adjusting in order to get the lever to lock in position with less resistance. Started the thing up and was able to shift into all 5 gears and it ran great (forward and backward only ) I read all the posts on people trying to get steering clutches loosened up but with no success. I figured it would be best to pull those beasts out and clean them up. Those are not light haha I have currently pulled the right steering clutch out (didn’t need any compression tools but tight fit) and disassembled it. To my surprise the clutch discs were not a solid piece of metal but actually came apart quite easily. I have cleaned up the drum and all the components except the discs, which take forever (a little work each day after work at CNH haha). One of the tricks to getting the clutch disassembled was to unlock the nut from the shaft by hitting those tabs back. I did manage to rip the gasket in the clutch compartment that seals the compartment from the transmission when I removed the clutch. Is there somewhere I can get a replacement gasket. I haven’t found anything and will probably have to make my own. Is there an easy way to clean the rust and debris off the discs? After I get those cleaned up it’s on to the left steering clutch. Then new wiring and some day hopefully some fresh paint. Also just got the tracks loosened up as they were very tight. I purchased a button head lubricator (7/8) adapter for my grease gun but am having second thoughts about packing the rollers with grease after reading up on it. Anyone have suggestions? The seals show no signs of leaking and I don’t want to damage them. Well this is where I am right now. I know you guys love pictures so I will try and post a bunch. Thanks!
  2. OK its been a really long time since I worked on on this new so dont laugh. Im helping a friend get a 706D running. The starter appeared to be dead but when I jump to the starter side of the solenoid the starter spins but does not energize the solenoid which is the type that also pushes the starter gear into the ring gear. Now, if memory serves I should be able to short to the solenoid contact and get it to engage, right? It doesnt. So, does this mean that the solenoid is dead? The entire starter assembly looks pretty new so Im a bit surprised at that but it has been sitting outside for a long time. Also steering wheel just spins. Will this firm up when the hydraulics power up? My 966 did not do this. I previously posted about this tractor when we first found it. Lost 706 D
  3. Hello all, I have a 72 IH 354 with a bd144 diesel engine. I have been trying to find a replacement starter for it. The starter that came on it was a Bosch 0001354107 and I can't for the life of me find one or one that replaces it. I cant rebuild it because the armature is bent. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
  4. Hello all and thanks in advance for your help. We have a TD20B dozer with the 427 motor. About a year ago we had trouble with the starter. While that problem was quickly solved, we did notice that when the starter was out that the housing was full of oil. Is this normal? I have never heard of relying on the starter to hold oil back. We had been told by a heavy equipment mechanic that supposedly has worked on these machines that this is not normal and if the problem is severe enough the crankcase will fill up with the 10w that is in the transmission. My dad started pulling the hoses off thinking the converter was leaking but when we looked through the book we can't see how you can avoid having oil in the flywheel/converter housing since the oil pump is driven by a gear and it appears that this drive gear is not sealed off from the rest of the converter housing and obviously this gear needs lube. There are a couple of oil lines that run out of the converter that I can't find in the book. One comes off of the top of the housing on the right hand side and heads back and tees into a line coming out the top of the back end. I ASSUME this is a vent line. Also, there is a hose coming off of the flywheel housing that is ABOVE the starter but on the right side of the machine that heads back to the transmission towards the bottom. I don't see this in the book either. I have seen in pix in the book that show the ports on both the transmission and the flywheel housing and the pix show these ports with plugs in them. I see that the hydraulic diagram in the book does show a convertor drain but nothing in actual pictures. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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