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Hi All, I have been following this forum for quite some time now (it has been extremely helpful!) as I work on my 1950ish td6 crawler. I have finally become a member so I figured I would share my experience in case it will be of help to anyone else. This crawler was purchased by my great grandpa (I am only 22) for use on his tree farm. He had plans for some sort of hydraulic lift in the front of the crawler that would grab small trees and lift them vertically to be placed in new locations, however it was never completed. The crawler had been sitting for maybe 10 years before it was moved just a few feet to park it in a new location by my dad. Since then it had been sitting 10+ more years (tarped) before I took interest in it. My first task was to get the crawler started on gas. It had the fuel tank relined and carb cleaned but would not start. Long story short, the magneto timing was 180 degrees off meaning it was trying to fire in the intake stroke. With that fixed, it fired right up on gas. I bled the diesel system and it switched over no problem. One of the reasons it had been sitting without use was that the main engine clutch was frozen solid and always engaged. I was able to find a replacement clutch disc online and pull/replace/clean the clutch and flywheel etc. Then the clutch required some adjusting in order to get the lever to lock in position with less resistance. Started the thing up and was able to shift into all 5 gears and it ran great (forward and backward only ) I read all the posts on people trying to get steering clutches loosened up but with no success. I figured it would be best to pull those beasts out and clean them up. Those are not light haha I have currently pulled the right steering clutch out (didn’t need any compression tools but tight fit) and disassembled it. To my surprise the clutch discs were not a solid piece of metal but actually came apart quite easily. I have cleaned up the drum and all the components except the discs, which take forever (a little work each day after work at CNH haha). One of the tricks to getting the clutch disassembled was to unlock the nut from the shaft by hitting those tabs back. I did manage to rip the gasket in the clutch compartment that seals the compartment from the transmission when I removed the clutch. Is there somewhere I can get a replacement gasket. I haven’t found anything and will probably have to make my own. Is there an easy way to clean the rust and debris off the discs? After I get those cleaned up it’s on to the left steering clutch. Then new wiring and some day hopefully some fresh paint. Also just got the tracks loosened up as they were very tight. I purchased a button head lubricator (7/8) adapter for my grease gun but am having second thoughts about packing the rollers with grease after reading up on it. Anyone have suggestions? The seals show no signs of leaking and I don’t want to damage them. Well this is where I am right now. I know you guys love pictures so I will try and post a bunch. Thanks!
Had more than mag trouble. First off my multi-meter took a long walk off a short pier and was giving me bogus readings. No matter what I did the combination of old parts and bad decisions couldn't make the mag fire. After getting a new multi-meter I started questioning everything. With two H4-0000-000-D (TD) mags I had double the trouble. One coil checked out both sets of point looked good no appreciable pits or burrs, one condenser was way out of spec (bad but not shorted), cap and button are old and probably scrapped clean way too many times, plugs wires and ends were new and in great shape, then I found two of my four spark plugs were kaput (looking for my spares now). So once I bought a full mag kit I discovered that one set points were at the proper gap but did not have enough contact when closed to make sufficient contact to complete the circuit - I just assumed they were opening and closing. Once I discovered I had enough good parts to make one mag at least fire. I proceed to make this sucker fire - time to fish or cut bait. Checking Ohms, continuity and cleaning all the connections, I found I could get "ONE" good spark - just one. Hmmmm? Why only one spark? Running through the process and getting ready to swap points I compared the two sets closely finding one set was not quit the same shape one spring had been manhandled and misshapen. I bent the spring back using my extensive knowledge of trigonometry and toque specifications I twisted it into shape - yeah that looks good enough 50/50 - 50 feet or 50 MPH looks great and man you don't want to put your tongue on it now. I had never run into that issue before so this is new to me. well need to trek out into the snow find something else that needs fix'n on the old girl. Just thought I'd bring the subject up in case someone else runs into the same issue and don't want to buy a mag or kit.
Ok. Ok, ok I know another question about magnetos and coils. I have looked here, there and over there too but I can't seem to find the any specs on my IH H4 coil resistance. Anyone know what the acceptable ohms between the primary leads? And an acceptable ohms reading between a primary lead and the secondary lead? Well poo!!! my 1980 something ohm meter just took a long walk off a short pier. Off to town in a snow storm
I have a modest stable of 3 old IH tractors and a stationary engine. I'm rebuilding both magnetos now. 1) 1950 C with distributor and electric start and lights. I inherited this one. It's possible the electric start was added later. In fact the C either didn't have a starter, or had a bad starter when I was a kid because I remember my father crank starting it. We bought him a starter for Christmas one year. I don't know if he replaced a bad one, or installed where there wasn't one. I also don't know if he switched from a mag to a distributor at the same time. I also don't know when the 12v conversion was, but it was a home job (no wiring harness). 2) 1949 OS-4 with H4 magneto and electric start and lights 3) 1945 OS-6 with distributor and electric start and lights 4) 1945-ish LA Engine with H1 magneto Question 1) Since tractors were ordered/offered with magnetos or distributors for several overlapping years, what drove the contemporary decision on whether to order a machine with magneto or distributor? I've read some people's guesses that with crank start, most customers would order the magneto. However all of my tractors have electric start including the one with a mag. It is possible however that electric start was added later for all of them. Question 2) I'm rebuilding the H1 mag for the LA, which is about identical to the H4 mag on the tractors. I want to clean the housing. What do you recommend for cleaning/degreasing the cast aluminum housing? It's pretty soft stuff. I think I marked it up just rubbing off the serial number. Question 3) Were magnetos painted? I'm inquiring both on the stationary engine and on the tractors. It seems strange to me to paint cast aluminum. Question 4) How often are coils failed? The points/condenser kits are reasonable, but the coils are expensive. I'd rather not buy them if not necessary Question 5) How does one test a coil? Presumably resistance? What would be a "good" resistance (or other metric) on an H1 or H4 mag?