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Found 8 results

  1. Hi Folks, Appreciate there are a number of posts on this one, but struggling to find the solution. Steering on my 475 (Perkins engine for the UK only) was nice and light, then whilst moving a cart, i moved to full lock and heard a pop. After that, the steering became incredibly heavy and hard to turn with little effect. I've popped out the flow diverter valve and it appears in good condition (photo attached). It was moving freely and i could pull it out with my little finger wedged in the end. I presume there isn't meant to be an O-ring in what looks like an O-ring groove? (my pick is pointing at it in the photo). With the front axle on stands the problem persists (no improvement) and i can't see any external leaks on the orbital. It does sound like something like a relief valve is relieving when i turn the steering but can't yell which one. Could this be the orbital unit itself, the steering cylinder or something else? I have picked up a new orbital from a scrap tractor, but don't want to start fitting it without being sure since it's a lot of work to get in there! any help much appreciated, thanks, Michael Thanks Michael
  2. Hello all, New member here, i am hoping some of y'all can provide some answers for me. I have a international 454 diesel that is the main tractor on my small beef cattle operation. The hydraulics are very weak. They will only lift a load at full throttle and when the tractor has warmed up it will lift extremely slow if at all. The remotes are the same, power steering and pto don't seem to be affected. However I have had everything quite altogether when running it and after shutting it off for a little bit it went back to working. Any ideas or suggestions? I'm thinking I need to replace or rebuild the hydraulic pump. The parking brake doesn't work so there might be some junk in the oil, but is that the only problem? Thanks for your time.
  3. My 886 currently uses a mid-mount 3 spool valve for loader control. This valve body leaks by and lets the loader settle. I would like to move loader control to the auxiliary valves and do away with the mid-mount valve, PTO pump, hoses, and levers. The remote auxiliary valves have a float position in them, can this be disabled or bypassed? I don't want a float position on this loader. If not, I tend to build some handle extensions for them and can work in some "stops" that prevent the handle from going into float. General thoughts on this?
  4. My 856 three point won’t go down unless I take my cushion valve Loose. Start it back up and it will go right back to being up. The draft control is in the place it should be Tractor did sit open for 20 years. Was wondering if a valve inside is sticking? No flow to rear outlets either.
  5. A friend of mine has an IH 706 and the hydraulic lift sometimes goes up and stays up until he removes the drop valve plug (30 in image) located under the plate on the lift top behind your right heel. You don't have to remove it totally but several turns and then it releases and the arms go down. We have removed the lift top and replaced the draft control main control valve spring (17 in image) and O rings and polished and removed any sharp corners or nicks and we replaced the ball and spring (28 and 29) and O rings in the down valve cage the drop valve actuating rod (34) pushes off the seat. We bought a new rod as well, but didn't see anything wrong with the old one so we reused it. The tractor will run sometimes days without having any issue, then when he raises the lift even partially, sometimes it keeps on going up until it tops out and will not release no matter where you move either of the quadrant levers. We took off the center link cover and checked the linkages on the lift top and all that is fine, including the one to the lower torque arm for the draft control function. We did not remove or replace any of the drop popet valve assembly (21 and 24) that is next in sequence here, because that required removing the whole cylinder assembly and all linkages from the lift top. We changed all hydraulic fluid and filter and use HyTran oil, and cleaned up inside rear axle housing and it was clean of any debris. So we don't think it's trash. This one has us wondering what the issue is that is causing this "stick up" problem. Has anybody else run into this problem.
  6. please advise, I am very new to working on tractors. I am helping a farmer that is short handed due to covid. We have a tractor/forklift that seems like the clutch is slipping. I have worked on cars. Manual and auto trans. I dont understand the use of a clutch and it still has a tourque converter in it!? I am not resigned to any diagnosis yet. It could also be a fluid flow issue? tourque converter? clutch? symptoms When cold, it will move forward and reverse, but RPM's need to be higher than normal. There is no "jump" or quick engagement of drive when clutch is popped. As it gets hotter , drive drastically loses power. Have had to actually push it with a 2nd tractor after a while of use. Here is what I need to start. Can someone try to explain the use of clutch AND tourque converter? Can a fluid flow issue cause this? Is it normal for a clutch to go out rather quickly without someone burning it and smelling it? Splitting it seems drastic and is my last resort. Is it as bad as it looks? Thank you for you help!
  7. Hello; First time post, need help with what seems to be a unique situation... I have a gas 574 with a DuAl 320 loader installed. It's my understanding that it was purchased new, with loader, by the previous owner, around 1972. The previous owner has passed away. The dealership that sold the tractor is no longer in business. My problem is with the *additional* hydraulic filter on this tractor. I am only guessing that this filter was installed as an option to provide additional flow capacity for the hydraulic pump as the loader is a heavy duty unit. The 'regular' filter, the one with a can and long bolt, are in the normal position on the left side. There is another filter on the right side. I stumbled across the fact that this was a filter while browsing through the online CIH parts catalog. You can see the parts listing here: Case IH Online Parts See photos 1 and 2 of the assembly on the tractor. It's apparently a suction filter, taking oil right into the hydraulic pump. It's located under the right foot plate, where you would place your foot when not using the brake pedals. I purchased both of the filter kits from my local dealer, drained the oil, installed the left side 'regular' filter, then started to install the additional filter. See from the photos and the parts diagram - there is a two-piece housing for the filter. The removable portion, which is toward the front, is secured to the rest of the housing with a stamped inverted v shaped metal ring clamp. That clamp pulls flanges, one on each part of the housing, together. The flanges form an inverted V, if they were touching eachother. Between the flanges is an o-ring that is trapped between them and seals the housing as the clamp pulls them together. There is a bypass valve that fits into the open end of the filter, held in by the removable cover when it's in place. There are also three depressions, equally spaced, into the removable portion of the housing. I don't know what their function is, other than to center the filter in the housing during assembly. Those are part of what I'm dealing with. The replacement filter diameter is larger that the diameter limit imposed by those three depressions. As you can see in Photo 3, the filter I removed from the housing has deflections / dents around the media at one end, in order to allow the filter to fit. The filter I removed is identical to the new one supplied by my dealer - same part number and same diameter - too large. The replacement filter doesn't have dents in it. I went back to my local dealer, and talked with a person in parts as well as the service manager. Neither of them had seen this hydraulic filter before, and didn't know that it was installed on a 574 or similar tractor. I asked them if they had any procedure for 'denting' the outside of the filter to fit, or another part number for a filter that would fit without needing to be 'modified'. They did not. So I went back to my shop, gently pressed the new filter into the removable housing to give me some idea as to where to make the dents, pulled it out, and worked on making three dents in the filter as best I could and re-assembled, filled the unit with 9 gallons of oil. For a few minutes, I was very pleased, then I could tell I was getting air into the system. The additional filter housing was leaking. Now I have yet to stop the leaking. Oil is leaking out and I can tell I'm pulling air in when the tractor is running. The clamp won't seat well all the way around the housing. It's got one bolt at one side, as you can see. Opposite the bolt is stamped metal - there's no hinge, etc. there. The housing and clamp are not available from CIH as replacement parts, only the filter kit, which includes the filter and replacemnt o-ring. I believe the unit may have been damaged due to brush, snow, or something else, as the removable cover only fits onto the housing at a certain arrangement, leading me to think that one or both are out of round. I have photos of the whole thing before I started disassembly and am working toward getting the clamp, cover, and housing aligned exactly as they were to see if that yields a leak-tight result. I'm about ready to remove the footplate (below the brake pedals) above the unit for better access, so I can see how the clamp is seating around the flanges, but have to trace out where an apparent return spring goes. I'll need to remove it to get the footplate off and want to be sure I know what it does before I touch it. Also about ready to purchase the CIH service manuals for the tractor. I like the unit, it's been reliable, and winter is approaching! I can't help but wonder if the filter housing design changed during the production life of the 574 and a newer housing would accept the replacement filter better. Questions for the forum: 1) Has anyone run into this and discovered a different filter that fits into the housing without 'modification'? 2) Has anyone had success replacing the entire filter with another housing / element that works? I'm guessing that since this is a suction side filter the flow capacity of the replacement filter would be critical to success. 3) Any suggestions on tractor salvage outlets where I may find a replacement housing and clamp? 4) Other ideas very welcome Thanks!!!!
  8. My 350 utility has an FEL with hydraulic tilt and a fast hitch. It uses two OE valves on the RH side of the seat to control everything. The previous owner made it so the fast hitch and loader tilt run off the same valve, you have open and close a series of ball valves to switch from one function to another. It works, but it's a pain in the butt, and I want to change it. Ideally i would like to have two valves for the loader, a valve for the fast hitch, and a valve to add a rear remote hookup. What would be the simplest way to accomplish this? Adding IH valves, or buying an aftermarket two spool valve for the loader? Where would I "tap into" the hydraulic for an aftermarket valve? Thanks
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