Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'hydraulics'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Boards
    • General IH
    • Coffee Shop
    • Projects, Builds, & Restorations
    • Support
    • Announcements
    • IH Construction Equipment
    • IH Trucks
    • IH Engines
    • Cub Cadets
    • IH Toys, Memorabilia & Collectibles
  • Archives
    • Archived Posts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 10 results

  1. Hello; First time post, need help with what seems to be a unique situation... I have a gas 574 with a DuAl 320 loader installed. It's my understanding that it was purchased new, with loader, by the previous owner, around 1972. The previous owner has passed away. The dealership that sold the tractor is no longer in business. My problem is with the *additional* hydraulic filter on this tractor. I am only guessing that this filter was installed as an option to provide additional flow capacity for the hydraulic pump as the loader is a heavy duty unit. The 'regular' filter, the one with a can and long bolt, are in the normal position on the left side. There is another filter on the right side. I stumbled across the fact that this was a filter while browsing through the online CIH parts catalog. You can see the parts listing here: Case IH Online Parts See photos 1 and 2 of the assembly on the tractor. It's apparently a suction filter, taking oil right into the hydraulic pump. It's located under the right foot plate, where you would place your foot when not using the brake pedals. I purchased both of the filter kits from my local dealer, drained the oil, installed the left side 'regular' filter, then started to install the additional filter. See from the photos and the parts diagram - there is a two-piece housing for the filter. The removable portion, which is toward the front, is secured to the rest of the housing with a stamped inverted v shaped metal ring clamp. That clamp pulls flanges, one on each part of the housing, together. The flanges form an inverted V, if they were touching eachother. Between the flanges is an o-ring that is trapped between them and seals the housing as the clamp pulls them together. There is a bypass valve that fits into the open end of the filter, held in by the removable cover when it's in place. There are also three depressions, equally spaced, into the removable portion of the housing. I don't know what their function is, other than to center the filter in the housing during assembly. Those are part of what I'm dealing with. The replacement filter diameter is larger that the diameter limit imposed by those three depressions. As you can see in Photo 3, the filter I removed from the housing has deflections / dents around the media at one end, in order to allow the filter to fit. The filter I removed is identical to the new one supplied by my dealer - same part number and same diameter - too large. The replacement filter doesn't have dents in it. I went back to my local dealer, and talked with a person in parts as well as the service manager. Neither of them had seen this hydraulic filter before, and didn't know that it was installed on a 574 or similar tractor. I asked them if they had any procedure for 'denting' the outside of the filter to fit, or another part number for a filter that would fit without needing to be 'modified'. They did not. So I went back to my shop, gently pressed the new filter into the removable housing to give me some idea as to where to make the dents, pulled it out, and worked on making three dents in the filter as best I could and re-assembled, filled the unit with 9 gallons of oil. For a few minutes, I was very pleased, then I could tell I was getting air into the system. The additional filter housing was leaking. Now I have yet to stop the leaking. Oil is leaking out and I can tell I'm pulling air in when the tractor is running. The clamp won't seat well all the way around the housing. It's got one bolt at one side, as you can see. Opposite the bolt is stamped metal - there's no hinge, etc. there. The housing and clamp are not available from CIH as replacement parts, only the filter kit, which includes the filter and replacemnt o-ring. I believe the unit may have been damaged due to brush, snow, or something else, as the removable cover only fits onto the housing at a certain arrangement, leading me to think that one or both are out of round. I have photos of the whole thing before I started disassembly and am working toward getting the clamp, cover, and housing aligned exactly as they were to see if that yields a leak-tight result. I'm about ready to remove the footplate (below the brake pedals) above the unit for better access, so I can see how the clamp is seating around the flanges, but have to trace out where an apparent return spring goes. I'll need to remove it to get the footplate off and want to be sure I know what it does before I touch it. Also about ready to purchase the CIH service manuals for the tractor. I like the unit, it's been reliable, and winter is approaching! I can't help but wonder if the filter housing design changed during the production life of the 574 and a newer housing would accept the replacement filter better. Questions for the forum: 1) Has anyone run into this and discovered a different filter that fits into the housing without 'modification'? 2) Has anyone had success replacing the entire filter with another housing / element that works? I'm guessing that since this is a suction side filter the flow capacity of the replacement filter would be critical to success. 3) Any suggestions on tractor salvage outlets where I may find a replacement housing and clamp? 4) Other ideas very welcome Thanks!!!!
  2. My 350 utility has an FEL with hydraulic tilt and a fast hitch. It uses two OE valves on the RH side of the seat to control everything. The previous owner made it so the fast hitch and loader tilt run off the same valve, you have open and close a series of ball valves to switch from one function to another. It works, but it's a pain in the butt, and I want to change it. Ideally i would like to have two valves for the loader, a valve for the fast hitch, and a valve to add a rear remote hookup. What would be the simplest way to accomplish this? Adding IH valves, or buying an aftermarket two spool valve for the loader? Where would I "tap into" the hydraulic for an aftermarket valve? Thanks
  3. On my 5288, the hydraulic remotes have basically stopped working. The basic symptoms are: (1) At least one or more of the three remotes will generally move a hydraulic cylinder immediately after you start up the tractor, but only if you don't bottom it out at full open or full closed. If you hit full open or closed, it will make a sound of over pressure in the tractor and then will stop working altogether. (2) The 3 point hitch will work fine moving up and down on the tractor after you start it up. But the moment you engage any of the three remote valves, it will again make the sound of over pressure in the tractor and the 3 point will also stop working. (3) Turning off the tractor always seems to reset the issue, and you will be back at (1) or (2) when you try to operate them. In doing various research on the internet, and doing some of the repairs suggested, I still have not yet been able to fix the issue. Many signs point to an issue with signal check valve on the main motor control valve. I did the test of removing the smaller plug on the front of the main motor control valve, and it was pouring oil out when you would actuate the valve. Based on the what the repair manual says, and many people on the internet, the issue should be the signal check valve. I pulled the valve stack off, and sure enough the small retaining washer holding the spring and ball back on the signal check valve had come out, so it was not holding the ball into the seat. So I went ahead and got a new signal check valve (ball, spring, and retaining washer) and replaced that per the instructions. I also decided that while I had the valve stack off, I would also replace the ball and spring setups on the other two control valves. So I have all new balls and springs where necessary in the 3 valves. But after I put it all back together, I am still having the same issues as before. So I pulled the small plug for the signal check valve again, and it is again pouring oil out when the valve is actuated. So I'm not sure if the washer holding the ball and spring failed again when I put it under a load, or if there is some other issue I'm not understanding. I don't know enough about the priority valve (PPH?) to know if that could possibly be the issue, since the 3 point seems to be working until I actuate any of the hydraulic valves. But the springs in the priority valve do both seem to be fine, although I did not replace those with any new springs. Does anyone have any ideas, before I have to break the bank and take it into the shop? Should I go ahead and take it back apart, and see if the washer did in fact fall out of the signal check valve again? Thanks in advance for any help that any of you may be willing to provide. Love the tractor, but this is driving me nuts.
  4. Hi Folks, Appreciate there are a number of posts on this one, but struggling to find the solution. Steering on my 475 (Perkins engine for the UK only) was nice and light, then whilst moving a cart, i moved to full lock and heard a pop. After that, the steering became incredibly heavy and hard to turn with little effect. I've popped out the flow diverter valve and it appears in good condition (photo attached). It was moving freely and i could pull it out with my little finger wedged in the end. I presume there isn't meant to be an O-ring in what looks like an O-ring groove? (my pick is pointing at it in the photo). With the front axle on stands the problem persists (no improvement) and i can't see any external leaks on the orbital. It does sound like something like a relief valve is relieving when i turn the steering but can't yell which one. Could this be the orbital unit itself, the steering cylinder or something else? I have picked up a new orbital from a scrap tractor, but don't want to start fitting it without being sure since it's a lot of work to get in there! any help much appreciated, thanks, Michael Thanks Michael
  5. Hey guys. Sure it's been asked a million times, I glanced through the forums and couldn't find exactly what I'm looking for. My 3 point hitch is not staying in position. When raised all the way up it drifts down and bumps itself back up in less than a minute or so. If I raise it all the way up and shut the tractor off, it will be all the way down within 30 minutes or so. All hydraulic fluid has been drained and refilled. New filter. Removed the PTO last week and wiped out the entire cavity with clean rags. What are the possible problems? Shop manual is on order and will be here Monday. Any help is appreciated (as always!) Thank you, Monty.
  6. Hello, 2 weeks ago I purchased a 55 Farmall 300. After a few days of discing, hydraulic fluid/ motor oil began pouring out of the bell housing. Removed inspection cover and diagnosed it is coming from engine side, oil was leaking from the rear main, and could tell that it mixed. Drained both hydraulic and oil, changed to a new hydraulic pump from TPasap. After running again it's leaking again. If you pull the dipstick you can feel pressure throwing droplets of engine oil out of dipstick tube. Anyone else ever hear of or had this issue? Thank you.
  7. Hey guys. My first post here. Recently acquired a 65 IH 806. Trying to do a quasi-restoration. It has (shocker) a pretty good leak on the remote valve under the seat. My question is, is it possible to remove this completely off the tractor? I don’t need it for my purposes. All I’m doing is running a Bush Hog on the PTO, and pulling a disk (not hydraulic disk.) I don’t need the remote capabilities at all. I’d rather remove it then tolerate the leak, or spend any significant amount of money repairing something I’m not going to use. Apologies in advance if this topic has been covered. New to the site, I did a cursory search and was unable to find the topic. Thank you for any help. Monty. Tried to attach some photos of the work so far. Hopefully they’ll show.
  8. I have got a 584 with a a quick attach loader. I lose all power to loader,three point, and auxiliary at times. It may come back and usually acts like there is air in the three systems. It will then work for a while and then die again. I have changed the filter, the fluid, and hooked the loader in correctly to the power beyond. I have read a bunch of the forums and this is my conclusion. My steering priority valve is locking up. If I pull the spring- Hydraulics all work correctly but no steering. The PTO is working fine and I am getting at least 2000 psi on the auxiliary and loader attachment when system is working correctly. When I lose the hydraulics- 00 pressure at the same points. Past forums say to pull and place a groove in the top of the valve. The book says to replace. The big issue is I can not seem to get the valve out of the housing. I can physically move it up and down but can't get it to come past the threads of the plug. I have tried to use pressure to push out and that doesn't seem to work either. Any ideas, thoughts or anything else I am missing.
  9. arvid

    560 hydraulics

    Howdy I've a 560 propane with 3 remote handles for left side.right side and rear. The rear has 2 hydraulic couplings and hydraulic draw bar. If I hook up my disk to the rear hydraulic couplings and try to raise or lower the disk, the draw bar is moving in opposite direction. How or can I isolate the draw bar from rear couplings so it stays stationary? Is there a valve somewhere? I've been using side ports to raise and lower disk but it makes for a Loooong hose and both hoses have failed. Thanks Arvid
  10. Just using boom to lift some equipment parts with my 1963 gas 504 Utility, and suddenly developed a pretty quick dripping leak coming from the triangular plate on front of transmission. Looked it up in the manual and this appears to be the clutch compartment bottom cover. Leaking around the two forward bolts with a steady drip. Before I remove this cover, what should I expect? 13 Gallons of hydraulic fluid, worn out clutch release bearings, or what? You help would be appreciated. Mark
  • Create New...