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Found 13 results

  1. My 886 currently uses a mid-mount 3 spool valve for loader control. This valve body leaks by and lets the loader settle. I would like to move loader control to the auxiliary valves and do away with the mid-mount valve, PTO pump, hoses, and levers. The remote auxiliary valves have a float position in them, can this be disabled or bypassed? I don't want a float position on this loader. If not, I tend to build some handle extensions for them and can work in some "stops" that prevent the handle from going into float. General thoughts on this?
  2. My 856 three point won’t go down unless I take my cushion valve Loose. Start it back up and it will go right back to being up. The draft control is in the place it should be Tractor did sit open for 20 years. Was wondering if a valve inside is sticking? No flow to rear outlets either.
  3. A friend of mine has an IH 706 and the hydraulic lift sometimes goes up and stays up until he removes the drop valve plug (30 in image) located under the plate on the lift top behind your right heel. You don't have to remove it totally but several turns and then it releases and the arms go down. We have removed the lift top and replaced the draft control main control valve spring (17 in image) and O rings and polished and removed any sharp corners or nicks and we replaced the ball and spring (28 and 29) and O rings in the down valve cage the drop valve actuating rod (34) pushes off the seat
  4. Hi Folks, Appreciate there are a number of posts on this one, but struggling to find the solution. Steering on my 475 (Perkins engine for the UK only) was nice and light, then whilst moving a cart, i moved to full lock and heard a pop. After that, the steering became incredibly heavy and hard to turn with little effect. I've popped out the flow diverter valve and it appears in good condition (photo attached). It was moving freely and i could pull it out with my little finger wedged in the end. I presume there isn't meant to be an O-ring in what looks like an O-ring groove? (my pick i
  5. please advise, I am very new to working on tractors. I am helping a farmer that is short handed due to covid. We have a tractor/forklift that seems like the clutch is slipping. I have worked on cars. Manual and auto trans. I dont understand the use of a clutch and it still has a tourque converter in it!? I am not resigned to any diagnosis yet. It could also be a fluid flow issue? tourque converter? clutch? symptoms When cold, it will move forward and reverse, but RPM's need to be higher than normal. There is no "jump" or quick engagement of drive when clutch is popped. As it gets hotter
  6. Hello; First time post, need help with what seems to be a unique situation... I have a gas 574 with a DuAl 320 loader installed. It's my understanding that it was purchased new, with loader, by the previous owner, around 1972. The previous owner has passed away. The dealership that sold the tractor is no longer in business. My problem is with the *additional* hydraulic filter on this tractor. I am only guessing that this filter was installed as an option to provide additional flow capacity for the hydraulic pump as the loader is a heavy duty unit. The 'regular' filter, the
  7. My 350 utility has an FEL with hydraulic tilt and a fast hitch. It uses two OE valves on the RH side of the seat to control everything. The previous owner made it so the fast hitch and loader tilt run off the same valve, you have open and close a series of ball valves to switch from one function to another. It works, but it's a pain in the butt, and I want to change it. Ideally i would like to have two valves for the loader, a valve for the fast hitch, and a valve to add a rear remote hookup. What would be the simplest way to accomplish this? Adding IH valves, or buying an aftermarket tw
  8. On my 5288, the hydraulic remotes have basically stopped working. The basic symptoms are: (1) At least one or more of the three remotes will generally move a hydraulic cylinder immediately after you start up the tractor, but only if you don't bottom it out at full open or full closed. If you hit full open or closed, it will make a sound of over pressure in the tractor and then will stop working altogether. (2) The 3 point hitch will work fine moving up and down on the tractor after you start it up. But the moment you engage any of the three remote valves, it will again make the sound of o
  9. Hey guys. Sure it's been asked a million times, I glanced through the forums and couldn't find exactly what I'm looking for. My 3 point hitch is not staying in position. When raised all the way up it drifts down and bumps itself back up in less than a minute or so. If I raise it all the way up and shut the tractor off, it will be all the way down within 30 minutes or so. All hydraulic fluid has been drained and refilled. New filter. Removed the PTO last week and wiped out the entire cavity with clean rags. What are the possible problems?
  10. Hello, 2 weeks ago I purchased a 55 Farmall 300. After a few days of discing, hydraulic fluid/ motor oil began pouring out of the bell housing. Removed inspection cover and diagnosed it is coming from engine side, oil was leaking from the rear main, and could tell that it mixed. Drained both hydraulic and oil, changed to a new hydraulic pump from TPasap. After running again it's leaking again. If you pull the dipstick you can feel pressure throwing droplets of engine oil out of dipstick tube. Anyone else ever hear of or had this issue? Thank you.
  11. Hey guys. My first post here. Recently acquired a 65 IH 806. Trying to do a quasi-restoration. It has (shocker) a pretty good leak on the remote valve under the seat. My question is, is it possible to remove this completely off the tractor? I don’t need it for my purposes. All I’m doing is running a Bush Hog on the PTO, and pulling a disk (not hydraulic disk.) I don’t need the remote capabilities at all. I’d rather remove it then tolerate the leak, or spend any significant amount of money repairing something I’m not going to use. Apologies in advance if th
  12. I have got a 584 with a a quick attach loader. I lose all power to loader,three point, and auxiliary at times. It may come back and usually acts like there is air in the three systems. It will then work for a while and then die again. I have changed the filter, the fluid, and hooked the loader in correctly to the power beyond. I have read a bunch of the forums and this is my conclusion. My steering priority valve is locking up. If I pull the spring- Hydraulics all work correctly but no steering. The PTO is working fine and I am getting at least 2000 psi on the auxiliary and loader attachment
  13. Howdy I've a 560 propane with 3 remote handles for left side.right side and rear. The rear has 2 hydraulic couplings and hydraulic draw bar. If I hook up my disk to the rear hydraulic couplings and try to raise or lower the disk, the draw bar is moving in opposite direction. How or can I isolate the draw bar from rear couplings so it stays stationary? Is there a valve somewhere? I've been using side ports to raise and lower disk but it makes for a Loooong hose and both hoses have failed. Thanks Arvid
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