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Found 8 results

  1. I'm allowing myself to start planning for the tires on the C project. It's probably stupid, because I have a lot left to do, but I at least like to know what I'm going to do when the time comes. In a perfect world, I'd like to get my hands on some old fashioned connected-bar tires for it like what I see on the sales catalog, but I doubt that's gonna happen. It would require stupid luck and NOS, so I'm not counting on it. So, I'll end up with regular R1 tread. The original tire size for the Farmall C was 9-36, which converts to 9.5-36. I really don't want to buy foreign made tires, and the only American ones I've been able to find are Firestones, supposedly. They seem to exist in name only. I can't find anyone who actually can give me a price for them. Their distributors don't have any. So that leaves me with foreign or going a size up. I know generally people don't frown on one size wider for tractor tires, but can anyone speak specifically for the Farmall format? How do they look with wider-than-"normal" tires? Anyone have pics? Another option would be to get 11 inch wide rims... I was planning on getting new rims anyway. Either way, this is a matter of taste and so I am soliciting opinions on what you'd do with tire sizes.
  2. How do I re-rivet the reverse gear (24) on to the transmission spline shaft (22)? I can't really place one end of the rivet on a hard surface to peen the other end, so how do I hold it in place and peen the non-headed end? I have thought about putting a screw in there in and lock it with green loctite, but I would rather rivet it.
  3. See Pic. Bearing 23 is lubricated by the transmission/differential case oil, right? There's no grease fitting at that end. Bearing 27 is greased via the grease fitting in the cap, right?
  4. I don't know how, but I lost the original studs that mount the axle housings to the "rear frame" (transmission housing) of my C. They're the thread studs, about 2-1/2" long and 5/16" Coarse on the housing side, and fine on the axle housing side. I can have them machined easy enough, but it's cheaper to buy NOS. Anyone know where to look for NOS? I've tried Messick's, where I found a few of them, and I tried some others with no luck. If anyone's feeling real ambitious, the pn is 368079R1.
  5. I am replacing the bearings in the real axle of a 1950 regular C. I am sourcing new ones and have found a head-scratcher. My parts catalog TC38-C says the following: Bearing, Ball, Rear Axle, Inner - ST295 Bearing, Ball, Real Axle, Outer - ST269A Here's where it gets weird. The part numbers on the bearings in both the left and right axles are GC-350 (inner) and GPC-260 (outer) - not what's shown in the catalog. Both are stamped with the IH logo also, so they're definitely IH parts. I was wondering, were those part numbers superceded? Were they replaced at some point in the tractor's life, that I don't know about? The parts I pulled out are as follows: Inner - IHC GC-350 - ID 1.969, OD 4.331, width 1.058 Outer - IHC GPC-260 - ID 2.364, OD 4.332, width 0.861 Both have steel cages for the balls. Neither has a snap ring groove, or a shield I see machined steps on the IR-OD and OR-ID, but I suspect these were features for turning or assembling. Though to be fair, they may possibly be for a shield. This seem to more or less match up with the given dimensions for the IHC ST295 and ST269A parts, as given on caseih.com. Any error was so small as to be likely caused by my measuring (vernier calipers), or parts wear since I can see some evidence of motion. So I checked my interchange guides. I have both an SKF and a Timken. Here's what I find: SKF IHC ST295: SKF 6310-J - Single Row, Medium Duty, Metric Deep Groove Ball Bearing, ID: 50 mm, OD: 110, width: 27 mm, with stamped unhardened steel cage IHC ST269A: SKF 6212-J - Single Row, Light Duty, Metric Deep Groove Ball Bearing, ID: 60 mm, OD: 110 mm, width: 22 mm, with stamped, unhardened steel cage IHC GC-350: SKF 6310-NRJ - Single Row, Medium Duty, Metric Deep Groove Ball Bearing, ID: 50 mm, OD: 110, width: 27 mm, with snap ring groove, snap ring and stamped steel cage IHC GPC-260: 6212-ZNRJ - Single Row, Light Duty, Metric Deep Groove Ball Bearing, ID: 60 mm, OD: 110 mm, width: 22 mm, with shield on side opposite snap ring Timken IHC ST295: Timken 310 - not shown in their catalog, but I assume this means a standard SAE 310 bearing (medium duty, 50 mm bore). Says nothing about features such as cages, shields, snap rings or grooves IHC ST269A: Timken 212 - not shown in their catalog, but I assume this means a standard SAE 212 bearing (light duty, 60 mm bore). Says nothing about features such as cages, shields, snap rings or grooves IHC GC-350: Timken 310L - not shown in catalog. Obviously the 310 corresponds to the 310 above, but no idea what the L is for. A web search indicates this might be for a seal. IHC GPC-260: Timken 212SL - not shown in catalog. Obviously the 212 corresponds to the 212 above, but no idea what the SL is for. A web search at a third party retailer says this has "one shield and snap ring" note this matches the SKF description! So, the parts I pulled out don't have the part numbers as shown in the catalog, and they don't have the features that SKF says they should have. In fact, visually, they match the catalog parts. It's weird. I haven't drawn any concrete conclusions, and I will buy the ST295 and ST269A parts, which match both the catalog and my own inspections. I am going to request data sheets/specs for all of these aprt numbers from both SKF and Timken, and see what comes of it. If they both agree that the IHC numbers correspond to bearings with all these features that mine don't have, I'm inclined to believe that an error was made in the manufacturing of my bearings, and that they were marked with the wrong part number, or never completely finished! It is really weird though. Have you guys seen these GC- or GPC- part numbers on bearings?
  6. KWRB

    Making Gaskets

    I think I'm going to start making my own gaskets, where the originals are available for patterns. For anyone on here who does the same, what thickness gasket stock would you buy for a Farmall C?
  7. I never thought I do the "how much do you think this tractor's worth?" post that we see all the time, but I would value the feedback from you guys. I posted over the weekend about some tractors I was looking at, with mounted cultivators. The owner does not want to sell the cultivators separate, and I understand that. However, given the situation he's in and since he seems like a real decent guy, I think he may be making a mistake and I kind of want to help him out by talking to people who know. His story is not mine to tell, but he's been beset by a few tragedies over a couple of years and now he's selling everything -the farm and all his equipment. Among all of it, he has a late 1950 Regular C with almost complete cultivators (C-254). The few missing pieces I can find for about three hundred bucks. The tractor is running, but stuck in third gear. He was asking $1800 for it and I thought that was reasonable enough. I was going to buy it, even though I think it might be near the high end of reasonable, because I want the cultivators. I was going to see if I could make sense of the shifting issue (fighting rear end with the cover and all the headache that comes with opening that up), and try to sell the tractor afterward and make some of that money back. I called to tell him I wanted to buy it today and he says he's sent it off to have the transmission/shifter looked at because once it's fixed, he can ask more for it. I understand the notion, but I kind of want to call him back and warn him off of spending too much money on it. I don't think an unrestored-but-otherwise-operating-properly regular C with cultivators is going to command more than $2k in upstate NY, and I expect he'll have more than the $200 difference sunk into the shifter repair. What do you think? Now before you answer, I know there are 6546842 curmudgeons all over the web with "I'd never pay that for that machine...", and your opinions on the merits of the C and all that. I get that YOU may not pay that, but I'd like to know what people think about MARKET value today. After all this guy's been through, I don't want him to lose money he has on the table and I can't spend much more than he's asking for it now. Thanks for any help
  8. I have a buddy that just recently purchased an "H" and he says that the guy he purchased it from put the wide front on it and that it came off a "C / Super C". Is this accurate to say that the "C" wide front will fit on an "H"? Just wondering and would like to see what others may know about this! Thanks!
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