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Hi All, I have been following this forum for quite some time now (it has been extremely helpful!) as I work on my 1950ish td6 crawler. I have finally become a member so I figured I would share my experience in case it will be of help to anyone else. This crawler was purchased by my great grandpa (I am only 22) for use on his tree farm. He had plans for some sort of hydraulic lift in the front of the crawler that would grab small trees and lift them vertically to be placed in new locations, however it was never completed. The crawler had been sitting for maybe 10 years before it was moved just a few feet to park it in a new location by my dad. Since then it had been sitting 10+ more years (tarped) before I took interest in it. My first task was to get the crawler started on gas. It had the fuel tank relined and carb cleaned but would not start. Long story short, the magneto timing was 180 degrees off meaning it was trying to fire in the intake stroke. With that fixed, it fired right up on gas. I bled the diesel system and it switched over no problem. One of the reasons it had been sitting without use was that the main engine clutch was frozen solid and always engaged. I was able to find a replacement clutch disc online and pull/replace/clean the clutch and flywheel etc. Then the clutch required some adjusting in order to get the lever to lock in position with less resistance. Started the thing up and was able to shift into all 5 gears and it ran great (forward and backward only ) I read all the posts on people trying to get steering clutches loosened up but with no success. I figured it would be best to pull those beasts out and clean them up. Those are not light haha I have currently pulled the right steering clutch out (didn’t need any compression tools but tight fit) and disassembled it. To my surprise the clutch discs were not a solid piece of metal but actually came apart quite easily. I have cleaned up the drum and all the components except the discs, which take forever (a little work each day after work at CNH haha). One of the tricks to getting the clutch disassembled was to unlock the nut from the shaft by hitting those tabs back. I did manage to rip the gasket in the clutch compartment that seals the compartment from the transmission when I removed the clutch. Is there somewhere I can get a replacement gasket. I haven’t found anything and will probably have to make my own. Is there an easy way to clean the rust and debris off the discs? After I get those cleaned up it’s on to the left steering clutch. Then new wiring and some day hopefully some fresh paint. Also just got the tracks loosened up as they were very tight. I purchased a button head lubricator (7/8) adapter for my grease gun but am having second thoughts about packing the rollers with grease after reading up on it. Anyone have suggestions? The seals show no signs of leaking and I don’t want to damage them. Well this is where I am right now. I know you guys love pictures so I will try and post a bunch. Thanks!
G'day all, New member here from south western Australia! (a mostly green and pleasant part of the country, compared to the typical outback people think of, with plenty of livestock and miscelaneous crop farming) Between myself and my English brother in law we have an interest and collection of vintage machines, among them are an Inter AOS6 tractor and my own McCormick Deering TD35 TracTractor! The TD35 is not very common in Australia, and I was pretty pleased when my dad phoned me to let me know he secured it at auction for me. (A very well known and respected bloke named Tony Palethorpe had passed away, he was an International man through and through and the clearing sale was massive.) Anyway, she runs well enough and has a large "cocky kit" hydraulic blade fitted. It also has a truck radiator instead of the original, and as such can only run for about 30 minutes before starting to overheat, we hope to find a better radiator. Not much chance of finding an original at all here in Aus. Highlights of our mis-adventures with it so far include replacing the fuel pump gaskets with the wrong gauge of paper, leading to the engine trying to run away, me nearly getting it bogged nose first during my first serious use of it to clear scrub, the exhaust and part of the exhaust manifold snapping off at the point of an old weld repair, now fixed with gasket seal paste and a hose clamp. Anyway, here's a few photos and a link to our YouTube video! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ja9d2dg6ghw Looking forwards to hanging around here and learning a bit more! Oh and can anyone let me know which other International machines might have compatible parts for the TD35? My brother in law thought the W40 might have a few... If anyone could tell me more about the TD35, any mechanical quirks and whatnot, it would be greatly appreciated!
Never seen a ram with felt seals on the pistons. I know this machine is from the 1940’s but wondering if anyone knows if these can be replaced or upgraded? There is quite a bit of rust and pitting inside the cylinder as well as some gouges on the chrome of the ram I’m not sure a can polish out so trying to do the full cost evaluation before I buy new units, thanks
Hello, It has been sometime since I posted, but I figured I would give an update on my project. It has been a long one, constantly delayed due to work, other projects and weather, rebuilding an engine in a open sided shed during the winter is not the most pleasant. loaded onto the trailer when I first got her Last August I pulled the engine on my 1966 IH 500, due to finding camshaft parts lying on the bottom of the oil pan. After pulling the engine I was able to order most parts from Fawcett.ca, including new pistons, camshaft, crank shaft and bearings etc. Then everything sat until a few months ago when I resumed disassembly of the engine Make shift sleeve puller I forgot to take photos during the installation of the internals. new items are: New camshaft, crankshaft, all new bearings, cylinder sleeves, pistons, water pump, rings and one new con rod. Inspected the oil pump and all looked good and to spec. the head was sent to the shop to check checked out and tuned up. I had issues with the new cam bearings during install, they ended up being slightly too small. I had to send it to the shop so they could line bore the bearings. now with some paint